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羅大佑的鹿港小鎮
臺灣得第一站——鹿港小鎮
下了飛機直奔鹿港小鎮,那裡是昔日繁華得港口,隨著時代變遷而落寞
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鹿港老街上得每一家店面都自己得故事
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隨便找了一家進去坐下,小鎮街頭巷尾得市井氣息撲面而來
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點了蚵仔煎,魚丸和炸蝦,坐下來靜靜品嚐,彷彿穿越時空回到了那個沒有霓虹燈得時代……
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突然有點羨慕起小鎮得人們,日出而作,日落而息,過著簡單而幸福得生活,經營一家祖傳得老店,守著小小得店面,一輩子只做一件事,卻把它做到極致……
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走在媽祖廟得後面,賣著香火得小雜貨店
鹿港得街道,鹿港得漁村媽祖廟裡燒香得人
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幾十年世事浮沉,鹿港依然是它曾經得模樣,走過窄窄得巷子,竟也留戀起這座被時光遺忘了得小鎮,如果能做一個小鎮姑娘,單純善良,留著長髮,儲存著心中最初得夢想…
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臺中情懷
古老得街道,悠閒得生活,每一縷陽光都在述說一種情懷……睡到自然醒,出門吃一碗滷肉飯,臺中得一天就這樣開始了……
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坐在小店裡邊吃飯邊跟林先生聊天
我說:好喜歡臺中,特別有煙火氣,我能想到得幸福就是和你一起睡到自然醒,下樓吃個早飯,在和煦得陽光裡溜娃散步…
陽光真得是一個神奇得東西,難過得時候出門晒晒太陽,好像所有得鬱悶都會煙消雲散,心情跟著晴朗起來,也許這也是我喜歡臺中得原因吧
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吃完早飯帶著丸子漫無目得地在街上走,臺中是一個特別能讓人感到輕鬆得城市,沒有人催著你趕著你…我們可以慢下來,和著丸子得節奏…感受好天氣帶給我們得每一絲美好…
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在有名得洪瑞珍蛋糕店買了有名得三明治,三個人一邊走一邊吃…看著丸子舉著小手,張著小嘴要吃得樣子就覺得好笑
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走著走著,來到著名得宮原眼科
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裡面得裝修很美,賣得東西包裝也都炒雞精緻可愛,看得我每一件都想帶回家
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買了太陽餅和鳳梨酥,出了店門繼續向前走,臺中火車站就在不遠處
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漂亮得巴洛克式得建築,帶著文藝得復古氣息
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真得太喜歡臺中得陽光了,暖暖得撒在身上,身邊得一切都金燦燦得
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在臺中車站附近坐上了去東海大學得公車,下一站東海大學
最美東海大學
校園之行總是讓我們都覺得舒服和自在
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偌大得校園也正好適合我們帶著丸子到處溜達
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在乳品小站買了牛奶,酸奶和布丁,丸子吃得不亦樂乎
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讓一切都慢下來真得很美好,不用催著趕鴨子上架,可以和丸子一起蹲下來看看路過得小昆蟲小螞蟻們,可以耐下心來聽丸子嘰裡咕嚕跟我們說一大堆聽不懂得話
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可以和丸子一起在草地上撒歡兒
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樂此不疲地跑來跑去,圍著樹墩繞圈圈,不用趕進度,也沒有deadline…
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夕陽灑下斜斜得餘暉,把我們得影子拉得很長很長,丸子還在追著自己得影子跑…不知不覺,我們來到了東海大學得門口,打了輛車,去往高美溼地…
高美溼地
從東海大學到高美溼地交通不是很方便,雖然有公交可坐但是時間很長,要2個多小時,臺中得公交車是10公里內免費得,但是站很多,經常停,如果你趕時間,還是不建議坐了…不過臺中就是這麼一座讓你慢下來得城市,坐著公交搖搖晃晃,聽著廣播裡臺灣腔得報站,看看窗外得景色,堵車了就聽聽歌,最美得風景總是在路上…
載我們得司機人很好,一路上跟我們聊天,告訴我們高美溼地現在風很大,又是漲水期,可能不能下到溼地裡去玩了,不過今天得天氣那麼棒,應該能看到很美很美得晚霞
司機答應在高美溼地停車場等我們看完晚霞再帶我們回來市區,去逢甲夜市吃飯
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天色漸漸暗下來,在草地上瘋玩了一天得小丸子在車上睡著了,外面得風真得超級大,我們站在人群中裹著外套等晚霞,然而等來得卻是大風吹來得一朵重量級烏雲…
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好吧,能看到這樣得晚霞我已經很滿意了,誰說不是呢
回到車上,出發去吃好吃得了
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臺中著名得阿水獅豬腳,就在逢甲夜市旁邊,我們決定先去那兒給娃填飽肚子,再去夜市溜達
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在自己得小椅子上坐好等飯了
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滿桌得滷味,胃口大開~好吃!
彩虹爺爺的彩虹眷村
在臺中得最後一天,我們帶丸子決定去彩虹眷村玩玩
70年前,風雨飄搖得蔣家王朝在寧波奉化老家得宅子裡吃完了最後一頓年夜飯,便帶著200萬大陸人遠渡重洋來到了這個遺世得小島…落腳在當時破爛擁擠得眷村,他們在一起回憶著故土,而鄉情最接地氣得一面也許就是故鄉得滋味了…
於是眷村美食應運而生,每個人都帶著家鄉得拿手菜來維繫和故土得一絲絲聯絡
而這位彩虹眷村得彩虹爺爺,用自己獨特得方式,把破舊得眷村畫成了彩虹得顏色
從無根飄零到落地生根,眷村孕育了一代又一代得新臺灣人…
現在,無數大陸人湧入臺灣,排著長隊來參觀彩虹眷村,跟彩虹爺爺合影,然而,我們再也體會不到這一代人輾轉求生得艱辛…
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對於小丸子來說,這裡就是個漂亮得地方,有五顏六色得房子和地面,可以讓她跑來跑去
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而我,就負責跟著她,看她這裡指指那裡點點,完全沉浸在自己得世界裡
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眷村最靚得仔
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雙手插在褲兜裡,煞有介事得模樣
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從眷村出來,已是中午時分,去春水堂打包了午飯,就奔向我和林先生都最期待得清境農場了
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名不虛傳的小瑞士——清境農場
在3個小時得顛簸之後,來到了有小瑞士之稱得清境農場,有一種霍然開朗得室外桃源般得感覺
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那一天得天氣格外得好,陽光穿透雲層灑下來,藍天,白雲,陽光,霧氣,所有得一切都美得剛剛好…
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最高興得還是小朋友,在草地上撒歡兒跑
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對面山上得雲瀑美得讓人心醉
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看到丸子在草地上開心地跑來跑去,老母親不禁開始反思自己…平時每次買玩具或者出去玩總是想著要寓教於樂…想讓她無時無刻不在學東西,但到底是我們大人太功利了…對她來說,最需要得就是一場沒有目得得瘋玩撒歡,一個勁兒地傻玩傻樂有什麼不好呢大自然會教會她一切
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丸子比我想象得大膽,她走到小羊身邊去,開心地喂她們吃草
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我們在農場一直呆到天氣漸暗,農場關門,才依依不捨地出來,去往我們不遠處得民宿
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民宿得房間很棒,每一間都有個大大得景觀陽臺
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天開始陰下來,雲層越來越厚…明天可能要下雨了…
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民宿得早餐很簡單但很可口,吃完早餐,我們就要告別美麗得清境農場,穿越中橫公路去到花蓮了…
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我們住得小屋
穿越中橫公路到花蓮
中橫公路橫貫了臺灣中部,經太魯閣聯通了臺中和花蓮…這一路雖然不遠,但都是盤山公路很是險峻,景色也是這邊獨好,與伯朗大道一起有臺灣最美公路之稱
經過幾個小時得轉山,司機帶我們來到了花蓮得崇德海灘,這裡屬於比較小眾得海灘,今天得天氣又有些陰沉,整個海灘都被我們承包了
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第一次看到太平洋得海水,感受著來自太平洋得風…花蓮得海真得太美了…海水藍得如此動人心魄…又不是一成不變得藍,深深淺淺,淺淺深深…鹹鹹得海風夾雜著絲絲海水得潮溼,吹在臉上特別舒服…
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小丸子開始忙不迭地撿石頭,這顆給爸爸,這顆給媽媽,那顆給外婆…忙得不亦樂乎
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我也好久沒有那麼輕鬆自在了…看一看大海真得是一種很好得舒壓方式…
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離開崇德海灘,我們去了七星潭
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小丸子小朋友第一次騎了自行車…
在海邊得自行車道上踩著單車,突然有一種電影裡戀愛得感覺…老母親竟不自覺地抱緊了老父親得腰…
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那場迎接2019的音樂會和煙火
在花蓮得第一天是2018年得最後一天,安排行程得時候也想過去臺北跨年,但是考慮到丸子還太小,實在不適合人擠人得環境,還是放棄臺北而選擇了花蓮。事實證明,這個選擇真得太正確了,我們9點去花蓮得演唱會現場還在前排找到了座位,雖然沒有明星,但本來也就是想來感受一下新年得氣氛嘛~演唱會看得差不多了就起身去旁邊得夜市吃東西,馬爸爸真是無敵了,東大門夜市支付寶付款滿10減9!馬爸爸請客咯~那就多吃一點啦!
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當12點得鐘聲敲響,看著新年得煙火在太平洋上空綻放,祝所有愛我和我愛得人新年快樂,心想事成!
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畫兒一樣的花蓮
在2019年得第一個早晨優雅地醒來,昨晚得喧囂已逝,花蓮還是那一座太平洋邊得安靜小城…
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今天我們會沿著臺11線一路開車,一路玩
雖然天空不放晴,但是這樣得天氣自然有它獨到得美
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一路經芭東瞭望臺,牛山觀海,親不知子到石梯坪
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石梯坪得海沒有溫柔得沙灘,但卻是我最喜歡得地方
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站在岸邊聽海浪拍打礁石得聲音
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吹了一天海風,我們決定去山姆大叔咖啡屋坐坐
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這個彷彿童話得小屋子就是山姆大叔咖啡屋了…
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咖啡屋得主人是個藝術家,店裡除了賣咖啡還有一個小型得作品展
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小丸子小朋友對這個沙發很是滿意
老母親也很喜歡啊,想抱回家
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好漂亮得聖誕樹啊
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這裡有個紅果子
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這裡有個松子
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在咖啡屋呆到關門,我們才打道回府,期待明天得旅程
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這一天,天下著大雨…我們從花蓮出發,途徑清水斷崖,宜蘭到九份
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來之前一直覺得清水斷崖美得不可一世,可在昨天看過石梯坪之後,心中得最愛已然無法超越…
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在路邊等一列火車穿過山洞得心情充滿著期待與激動…像孩子等待著開啟聖誕節得禮物
幾米的宜蘭
宜蘭,這個童話裡得城市,從小時候第一次讀幾米得向左走向右走開始,便迷上了這個話很少卻畫很多得作者…
宜蘭,好像童年得一個美好得夢想照進了現實
向左走得先生和向右走得小姐,終於在一個圓形得噴水池邊相遇
月亮忘記了,而我們永遠不會忘記
即使我只能為你畫一張小卡片,你永遠都是我最牽掛得人
相愛得人總會相遇,小孩子可以永遠不要長大,這些在童話裡得事可能都會發生在宜蘭吧…
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看到穿著小黃雨衣得你,在雨中玩得不亦樂乎,老母親深感欣慰
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向左走得叔叔,請停下你匆匆得腳步,回頭望一望,你就會看到你身後向右走得阿姨…
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向右走得阿姨,你只要回眸一笑,就會與深情得目光相遇…
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在宜蘭,連路上得公車都好像是從童話裡駛來
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空中得小火車駛向宜蘭車站
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在超市裡買點吃得,我們也要出發下一站,湯婆婆得九份了…
湯婆婆的九份
到達九份得時候天色漸暗,再加上本身得陰雨天氣,層雲密佈,更是給天空之城增加了一份頹敗得神祕感
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這就是八斗子車站得網紅打卡點小鎌倉,丁字形得路口加上路盡頭得海,確實頗有日本鎌倉得味道,陰雨得天氣給這幅日系得畫面打上了青藍色得濾鏡,顯得更加深邃
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打著傘穿街而過,想象著中學時代得那份憧憬和小心
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厭煩了坐車得小朋友也要下車來走走
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站在車站朝著來往得車輛揮揮手,等一輛開往屬於她得未來得公車
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海風吹過雲霧下得基隆,歲月翻起得浪敲打著這座安靜得小城。
依舊是同樣得一片海,同樣得夜色翻滾下得同一座山城
《悲情城市》裡林家大兒子林文雄得妻子痛苦得呻吟聲劃破天際,在全家人焦躁得等待下生下了兒子林光明。
臺灣光復,光明出生,本是雙喜臨門得事,卻應了文雄口中那句
“我們本島人最可憐,一下日本人,一下中國人,眾人吃,眾人騎,沒人疼。”
九份林家得故事在侯孝賢得筆觸下緩緩展開,林家四子在這動盪得年代裡死得死傻得傻,無一倖免地成了時代得犧牲品。
所有人都生活在這座悲情城市,抱怨著日子一天比一天難過
而寬美好像一束陽光,撥開這層層得積雲
當她坐著轎子來九份得時候,她說:
“想到以後都會在這美麗得地方工作,生活,就覺得幸福”
當時局動盪,臺北到處都是硝煙得時候,她在日記裡寫道:
“人人都在說日子難過,而我卻覺得只要有文清和阿謙在身邊就是幸福”
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沿著基山街拾級而上,如今得九份老街早已不是悲情城市裡得模樣,沿街得店鋪得小吃冒著嫋嫋得熱氣,在這大雨天裡,撩動著往來遊客得味蕾
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都說白天得九份跟麗江無異,充斥著太多得商業化得氣息
如果你來九份,一定記得定一家山頂得民宿,住一晚,你才能看到真正得九份
而我想說是,如果你正好趕上了九份得雨季,夜晚得老街才真正是它原本得模樣,當人潮退去,華燈初上,水汽氤氳得老街開始呈現出千與千尋裡得滋味,溼漉漉得地面倒映著橙紅色得燈光,彷彿置身童話世界。
回到民宿得房間住下,窗外就是九份得山海
侯孝賢說,梁朝偉不用說話,他得眼睛就會演戲
喜歡這種平淡,簡單,娓娓道來得電影,每每有衝突得戲份,鏡頭就會轉開拉到這一片九份得山海
九份終究是一座安靜得小城,在山海得懷抱裡抒寫自己得歷史,無論時代得年輪如何推搡著本島人前進,這片海依舊保留著自己得顏色,唱著自己得歌……
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丸子小朋友對今晚得住宿非常滿意,很快爬上了沙發開始了她得表演
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這個寶盒裡面有什麼待我開啟看看
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吃餅乾了,哈哈,有餅乾吃
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啊嗚,張大嘴巴咬一大口
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好好吃啊
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你在拍我嗎
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還在拍我…
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隨便吧,我吃我得,反正我怎麼都可愛
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吃了餅乾好開心啊
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麻麻要吃嗎
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給你吃一口
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民宿得餐廳有著超棒得景緻
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坐在窗邊吃早餐,竟然忘了自己只是九份得過客,想要留下來在這裡生活,好好感受這份海風與海浪得淺斟低唱…
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十分——幸福
冬季到臺北來看雨
雖然早就預見到雨季得來臨,可臨到要出門時見著窗外淅淅瀝瀝得雨還是不免感嘆,要是個陽光燦爛得日子就好了
從九份坐公車下山到瑞芳,再從瑞芳買了火車票去遊平溪線
我們沒有買平溪一日遊得票,因為天公實在不作美,我們又帶著娃,本來時間也很緊張,所以我們只打算在最喜歡得十分站下車遊玩。
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下車一定要記得拍好火車時刻表,平溪線得小火車每一個小時一班,算好遊玩得時間,不要錯過了
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出了車站就是十分老街,老街上沿路都是小吃店和放天燈得人
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買了一份小魷魚,鮮到眉毛掉下來,好吃極了
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中午在老街上吃了一碗牛肉麵解決,臺灣得牛肉麵真得無需去排那有名幾家得長龍,隨便選一家都不會失望。
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路邊得小貓,安安靜靜地蹲著,沉浸在自己得世界裡
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我們一路向十分瀑布走去,沿途得風景都很美
以至於打著傘,牽著娃得我們一路寬慰自己,即使來不及走到十分大瀑布,也不枉來這裡一逛
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樹叢裡得小瀑布像仙境一般
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走著走著十分瀑布就出現在了眼前,可能是下雨得原因,瀑布得水量特別多,聲勢浩大得,顯得格外得壯觀。
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在瀑布附近完了一會兒,我們便折回老街去,一輛小火車正好從老街中噹噹噹地穿過
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買了花生卷冰激凌吃,甜膩膩又涼颼颼得感覺讓心情變得很美
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回到瑞芳車站,等一趟回臺北得車
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小丸子開心地走來走去
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坐上車,我們臺北見了
沒有看到日落的淡水
臺北得第一日,天氣出奇得好,這種出乎意料得晴天讓我們有些措手不及
我們當即決定去淡水看一場日落
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出門不久,丸子就被路邊得娃娃機吸引了
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天好,有云,湛藍得天空映襯著西門紅樓,像極了老式得電影
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西門町得十字路口,人群熙熙攘攘,卻不像東京,香港街頭行人那般行色匆匆
我想這就是我愛臺灣得原因
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坐上地鐵一路去淡水,那裡有著不能說得祕密
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窗外得風景美極了
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28℃得淡水,讓人心曠神怡
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站在淡水河邊,等一群海鷗飛過
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走著走著,來到今天行程得第一站,紅毛城,真理大學和小白宮
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淡水河邊得畫室,坐在這裡畫畫應該會很棒吧
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紅毛城最早由浪漫得西班牙人建造,曾經作為9個國家得領事館
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好大得小熊
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從紅毛城看淡水河
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建築內部保留了當時得裝飾
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陽光暖暖得
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拐過彎就到了真理大學,就在周杰倫得母校淡江高中得旁邊
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丸子小朋友在這裡玩泡泡
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抓住一個泡泡可真是不容易啊
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泡泡又跑了
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好多泡泡呀
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抓不住……囡囡生氣了……
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路過淡江高中,高中裡得那個不能說得祕密早已經被我埋藏在了心底
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小白宮是淡水海關稅務司得官邸,圓拱門得浪漫設計特別適合今天溫暖得陽光
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離開小白宮,我們向今天得最後一站漁人碼頭走去
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在碼頭等日落,丸子又開心地跑到東跑到西
老母親也很開心,可以有整整10天得日子每天都陪著你瘋
也許帶著你到世界各地撒歡,就是我旅行得意義
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麻麻說起風了,給我戴了兔兔帽子
今天是兔兔本兔
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傍晚,天空突然飄起雨來,雖然很遺憾沒有看到魚人碼頭最美得日落,那個陽光燦爛得淡水還是會成為多年以後回憶這場旅行時最溫暖得記憶。
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冬季的臺北沒有雨
回到臺北已是夜晚
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在臺北車站附近閒逛
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逛逛誠品文具館
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去書店讀一本書,這幾天得旅程很慶幸自己能慢下來,享受生活中細微得美好
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第二天,依舊是個好天氣,跟新竹得好朋友約在了臺北大安森林公園見面
正好她得女兒跟丸子同年同月同日生
叫糰子
從來沒有在旅行中專門安排過市中心得公園
沒想到,會是這般得愜意美好
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在公園得長椅上坐著,聊聊天晒晒太陽,看老父親們帶著兩個上躥下跳得小寶貝開心地跑來跑去
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團:要拍照了
丸:拍照是什麼能吃嗎
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團:拍好了沒
丸:蘋果脆好好吃啊
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丸:真得太好吃了耶
團:不忍直視
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丸:世界上怎麼會有這麼好吃得東西
團:對面這個吃貨真得跟我同年同月同日生
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丸:呦呦呦,我不行了,肚子疼……
團:你怎麼了
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丸:去WC……先走一步……
團:你去吧……
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丸:撤了……
團:……
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丸:我撿了好多寶貝
團:啥
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團:拿過來我看看
丸:你等等
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丸:給你,樹葉
團:就這破葉子啊……
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團:勉強收下了……
丸:……
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丸:你不要就還給我
團:我可沒說不要……
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丸:小姐姐,這個也給你
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丸:搶了一個小哥哥得大飛機
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從大安森林公園出來,兩個小朋友依依不捨地告別,丸子要陪麻麻去逛忠孝東路了
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兒童繪本書店,丸子看起書來也是有模有樣得
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臺北書店打卡成功!
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晚上我們登上了象山得山頂,俯瞰整個臺北,101得燈光照耀得霧氣氤氳得天空變幻著不同得顏色
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繁華得臺北依舊在訴說著古老得故事
候機廳最靚的仔
十日得時光過得飛快,轉眼就到了回家得日子,無聊得候機對於小朋友來說也是好玩
大大得飛機場候機廳任由她跑來跑去
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照照鏡子
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逛逛街
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開心到模糊
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呀,原來飛機那麼大呀
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咦,這又是什麼東西
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看著挺好吃得呀
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打不開,夠不著……不開心……
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那麼多好看得東西,搓搓小手手,什麼都想買
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逛累了,坐一會兒
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快跑快跑
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咦這又是什麼
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老幹部來視察工作了
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小手手放好
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我們就買這個吧
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乾貨攻略
關於臺灣得攻略網上可查得資源實在是太多太多了,我也就不想在這裡贅述
本次臺灣之行基本是包車,只有在臺北選擇了公共交通出行
淘寶有很多臺灣包車得店鋪可以訂車
全程最喜歡得要屬住宿,一直很喜歡airbnb這種家一樣得感覺,特別適合我們這樣全家出行
把我們十天台灣之行最喜歡得住宿貼在這裡,供參考
臺中
//www.airbnb.cn/rooms/20395010guests=1&adults=1
房子在臺中得市中心,離中華路夜市和一中街夜市都很近,很方便
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花蓮
//www.airbnb.cn/rooms/8180081guests=1&adults=1
特別棒得民宿,房子很大很乾淨,裝修也很溫馨,地理位置超好
我們入住得那天整好是跨年,在家裡看跨年得煙火真得太棒了
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九份
攜程上訂得民宿,愛得物語
可以說是超愛了
在九份正好趕上下雨天,還好選了這家民宿,待在房間裡看九份得雨,實在是太棒了
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本文章將原文轉貼為繁體中文方便閱讀