臺灣,那些年精神食糧的來源,保留了中華民族傳統文化的寶島,2018年的10月,帶著一隻眼睛的攝影師走臺北 → 臺中 →日月潭→高雄 →墾丁 → 花蓮 → 宜蘭→九份 → 臺北的路線去環了個島。
行程
Day 1抵達臺北
Day 2臺北:中正紀念堂、總統府、國父紀念館、101
Day 3臺北:臺北故宮博物院、西門町、西門紅樓、寧夏夜市
Day 4臺北:淡水、漁人碼頭
Day 5臺中:勤美術館、臺中美術館、東海大學、宮原眼科
Day 6南投:日月潭
Day 7南投:日月潭臺中:彩虹眷村
Day 8高雄:駁二藝術特區、打狗鐵道故事館、打狗英國領事館、西子灣風景區
Day 9墾丁
Day 10 墾丁
Day 11 墾丁-花蓮
Day 12 花蓮:出海賞鯨豚 七星潭
Day 13 花蓮:花東縱谷線
Day 14 花蓮:清水斷崖、太魯閣
宜蘭:幾米廣場
Day 15 平溪線 九份
Day 16 九份臺北上海
D1 抵達臺北
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B1辦好悠遊卡,坐捷運直達車35分鐘就到臺北車站了
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酒店附近有一家金峰滷肉飯,先過過癮
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D2 中正紀念堂- 總統府-國父紀念館-101
酒店離中正紀念堂很近
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從大孝門進入
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中正紀念堂是為紀念蔣介石而修建,1976年破土,1980年完工,由紀念堂、兩廳院、自由廣場牌樓組成。
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紀念堂的設計獨具匠心,外表以藍白兩色為主,象徵自由平等之青天白日色調。紀念堂的方形格局,寓意蔣公名字裡的“中正”。中正紀念堂屋頂呈八角形設計,是仿效北京天壇的八角攢尖琉璃瓦頂,代表人間八德,隱藏其間的人形,則象徵著中華傳統文化的天人合一。
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每到整點時間有儀仗隊衛兵的交接儀式,大概這些士兵剛剛交接完。
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紀念堂內的蔣公銅像面東朝西而坐,永遠在遙望著大陸。
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中正紀念堂前的花崗岩石階共有84級臺階,加上大廳階梯的5級,一共89階,寓意蔣公享年89歲。
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你所未見的臺北嘉年華
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廣場上還有國家兩廳院之國家音樂廳和國家戲劇院 。
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位於中山南路上的正牌樓上,寫有“自由廣場”四個大字,是2007年陳水扁當政時,將牌樓上原有的“大中至正”四字修改得來,並把中正紀念堂改為臺灣民主紀念館。馬英九上臺後,中正紀念堂於2009年複名,但外面的自由廣場牌匾仍然保留。
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自由廣場門口好多宣傳員,後來在很多景點都見到了,看到遊客就拉著宣講。
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中正紀念堂離總統府很近,走的累了想打車都打不到。路邊車很少,更是看不到計程車。馬路上人也很少,想問個路都找不到人。和我們這邊的車水馬龍喧鬧擁擠形成鮮明對比。
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路過介壽公園
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臺北總統府位於重慶南路一段122號,是日據時期所建,1919年完工,為巴洛克式建築。
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總統府今天不開放參觀,打個卡就去永康街吃飯咯。
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大名鼎鼎的永康牛肉麵。
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對面是個學校
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永康街周圍有很多好吃的店
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想起那個庭院深深的年代
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溜達到青田七六
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青田七六為1931年由足立仁教授所興建的居所,整棟建築主要用檜木建成,整棟建築融合了日式及洋式建築優點。
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1945年,中國地質科學的重要先驅者馬廷英來到臺灣,入住青田街七巷六號,後任臺灣大學地質系主任。
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打車去國父紀念館
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在國父紀念館外的廣場就能看到臺北 101
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國父紀念館是為紀念孫中山先生百年誕辰而建,於1972年5月16日落成啟用。國父紀念館本體建築為唐朝風格,線條簡煉,曾獲美國教育部“最佳建築獎”獎勵。該本體建築未完全仿古,例如以小樑取代簷椽,屋頂使用釉面取代傳統瓦頂。
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國父紀念館高30米,每邊長100米,由每邊14支灰色大柱頂起翹角像大鵬展翼的黃色大屋頂。
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入口大廳的國父銅像,基座刻有孫中山先生以毛筆親自書寫的《禮記·禮運·大同》篇。
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每逢整點有三軍儀仗隊交接儀式。
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101大樓位於臺北市信義區,是臺北最顯眼的地標性建築,曾經六年蟬聯“世界第一高樓”稱號。今天雲霧繚繞,就免了象山登高望遠之雅興了。
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繼續體會臺北鬧市的清淨
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一路往101的方向走去。
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來誠品書店打個卡
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在101大樓斜對面,以幾米繪本《月亮忘記了》主題打造的月亮公車,希望在忙碌的都市生活中,別忘了自己的初衷。
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臺北的地鐵裡都有儲物櫃,很方便。
臺北車站像迷宮一樣,換乘問了很多人才找到路,地鐵里人超多。原來地上看不到的人都到了地下
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D3 故宮博物院
臺北故宮博物院:位於山清水秀的外雙溪,佔地面積1200畝,1965年11月12日落成。整座建築的設計理念秉承了中國宮廷式的建築風格,碧瓦黃牆,雕欄玉砌,在青山掩映下,顯得典雅而壯麗。這裡珍藏著1948年以來從大陸運來的65萬件珍貴文物, 素有“北京故宮看建築,臺北故宮看文物”的說法。由於臺北故宮博物院受展廳面積所限,通常每3個月會換一次展品,即便這樣,要把這裡所藏稀世文物逐個兒在世人面前亮個相,至少需要30年時間。
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臺北故宮博物院是由兩個正館展區、兩個戶外園區(至善園和至德園)、天下為公牌坊和張大千紀念館組成。
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那些讓我流連忘返的寶貝們
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三樓主要為玉器和青銅器,聞名遐邇的鎮館三寶,“豬肉白菜鍋”- 東坡肉形石、翠玉白菜和毛公鼎就在這裡。
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精巧絕倫的東坡肉形石
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栩栩如生的翠玉白菜
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毛公鼎是迄今為止鐫刻銘文最多的重器,珍貴程度世所罕見。
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回城路過士林官邸,到此一遊
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士林官邸位於臺北市士林區福林路,環境清幽,三面環山,山清水秀。
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和蔣夫人的座駕合個影
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蔣夫人的玫瑰園
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回到鬧市
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西門紅樓位於臺北市萬華區的成都路上,緊鄰西門町。這棟兩層高的三級古蹟紅磚洋樓為1908年所建,該古蹟建築最獨特之處,是其外觀為每正立面8米,因此於日治時期通常被稱為八角堂。
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西門町位於臺北市萬華區成都路、康定路、漢口街和中華路所構成的街區,為臺北市西區最重要的消費商圈。因為位於臺北城的西門外,因此得名。在1980年代以前,西門町為長期代表臺北最繁華的娛樂流行聖地,武昌街二段更是其中最精華的路段。1980-2000年間,臺北市逐漸向東發展,西門町的商圈地位漸衰。
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阿宗面線,生意真好,可惜吃不慣
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寧夏夜市逛逛吃吃
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D4 淡水
微風細雨中,坐著捷運去淡水
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淡水,是一條位於臺灣北部河流的名字,也是臺灣唯一曾可通航的河道。是一個從繁華到靜謐的河口小鎮,歷史悠久,有漁人碼頭的落日和滿是古蹟建築的真理街老街。
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小白宮:位於真理街15號,建於1870年,是前清淡水關稅務司官邸的別稱。現在,這座紅瓦白牆的西班牙式小洋樓已化身為一間回顧淡水歷史的展覽館。
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小白宮是一棟西班牙白堊迴廊式建築,小白宮內門窗的位置均與迴廊拱圈相呼應,採光性及通風性良好,更方便由室內觀賞室外景色。
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這裡可眺望到淡水河出海口和對岸的觀音山。
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淡江高階中學:周杰倫母校。
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沿這條小巷繼續向上
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真理大學:是一所臺灣基督長老教會在臺灣北部創辦的私立大學,其中最引人注目的是牛津學堂和大禮拜堂。
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大禮拜堂為哥特式禮堂,用於舉辦畢業典禮和各式大型活動,禮堂內部有一座由純手工打造的管風琴。
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牛津學堂是閩式紅磚屋與歐式拱窗的完美結合。
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從這條小道可以走到紅毛城。
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紅毛城是西班牙人在300多年前建造的紅磚堡壘。
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300多年的歷史讓淡水紅毛城成為臺灣現存最古老,最具歷史意義的建築之一,也是臺灣一級古蹟。
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俯瞰淡水灣
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“最美的不是下雨天,是曾與你躲過雨的屋簷”
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今天下雨,無法欣賞夕陽了,打道回府吧
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回到市裡,遇到了聞名已久的垃圾車
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帶上臺鐵便當,坐著臺鐵去臺中
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D5 臺中美術館-東海大學-宮原眼科
臺中旅遊的大福利,公車免費坐
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勤美術館是一個“街區博物館”,是一個戶外裝置藝術空間,每隔一段時間會進行不同主題的裝置藝術展覽。
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比臺北更空蕩
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漫步草悟道
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彷彿包場了
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來到臺中美術館
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臺中美術館,又名臺灣美術館,是臺灣最重要的美術館之一,這裡常年會有很多藝術展展出,除了美術館內的各大展區以外,美術館外也有雕塑公園。
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在這裡偶遇一個正在掃落葉的大爺,臉上那種平靜滿足的笑容,讓我想起人的最高境界,天真。
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隨處可見的選舉廣告
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繼續公交車
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臺中歌劇院:伊東豐雄用了十年完成的作品,以“洞穴”為主題,又被稱為美聲涵洞。由58面曲牆組成的無柱無牆的流動空間造就了作為歌劇院必備的良好的回聲條件。
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步行至附近的新光三越,吃個正宗的鼎泰豐
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繼續公交車去東海大學
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東海大學是臺灣一所基督教背景的綜合大學,也是臺灣第一所私立大學,素有“臺灣最美大學”的美譽。
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像是走進了森林公園
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東海大學校園的風格是極簡型,建築使用的材料都是不加修飾的顏色,由灰瓦、磚牆、白牆、清水混凝土與各種樹木構成一個簡潔的校園景觀。
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園內的路思義教堂是東海大學的象徵,是一座基督教禮拜堂,為著名的建築師貝聿銘和陳其寬之作。
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教堂由四片雙曲面組成,四面各自分離,中間以玻璃邊窗連線。從外觀看,像一雙虔誠祈禱的手。
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校園內還有自己的牧場,可以在牛乳小棧喝到新鮮的牛奶!
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在東海大學食堂吃好晚飯回到城裡。
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宮原武雄於1927年開設了眼科診所,他回國後留下了這座建築。2010年修整成具有巴洛克風格的甜品店,外觀保留了宮原眼科的結構與拱狀式騎樓。
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祝君天天年輕
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D6 日月潭
臺中酒店附近就有臺灣好行日月潭線的發車點。
坐上大巴到日月潭已經是中午時分,吃個午飯休息一下,上船遊日月潭咯。
日月潭有水社碼頭、伊達邵碼頭及玄光碼頭三處遊船碼頭,可選擇順向或者逆向兩條航線在三個碼頭間迴圈航行。
我們從水社碼頭出發。
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第一站: 玄光寺碼頭。
日月潭最著名的“阿婆茶葉蛋”和刻有“日月潭”的石頭都位於此。
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一群人搶著在這裡留念
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從水社碼頭出發到達玄光寺碼頭之前會經過拉魯島。以拉魯島為界,日月潭分為日潭和月潭。背後的小島便是拉魯島了。
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日月潭是臺灣最大的淡水天然湖湖泊。
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提前看好臺灣好行巴士時刻表,趕到玄光寺巴士站,坐巴士去慈恩塔。
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下了公車還要爬一段山路
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路上遇到本地人,溫柔的鼓勵我們“加油”。
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慈恩塔是蔣介石於1971年為了紀念母親王太夫人所建,仿遼宋古塔式樣八角寶塔。該塔建在海拔955米的青龍山頂上,塔高9層、高約45米,塔頂正好是海拔1000米。
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慈恩塔位於日月潭最高點,居高臨下,可以俯瞰整個日月潭。
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臺灣有過眾多版本的“臺灣N景”評選,皆有不同程度出入,唯日月潭這一灣寶島名湖從不曾跌出榜單。日月潭孕育了臺灣的原住民文化,因此成為了臺灣人心中無法抹去的標誌性的自然景觀。
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從慈恩塔下來,坐檯灣好行巴士去伊達邵碼頭。
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最後一班船回水社碼頭
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傍晚時分在湖邊悠閒的漫步,體驗寧靜之美。
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D7 日月潭-彩虹眷村
抱著看日出的心態,摸黑起床,去看看寧靜的日月潭。
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從水社遊客中心到向山遊客中心的向山段車道非常平緩,長度約3.4公里,非常適合騎行。
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秋高氣爽,騎車去
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騎自行車比坐船有意思多了。
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我在日月潭騎行的樂趣,還有租車行可愛的老闆娘和她可愛的鸚鵡們。
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坐檯灣好行的專線車回到臺中高鐵站,把行李寄存在這裡去彩虹眷村。
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彩虹眷村:臺中市南屯區春安路56巷,退伍老兵黃永阜用畫筆刷出了色彩斑斕的童話世界。
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帶上吳寶春和高鐵便當,去高雄啦
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臺鐵便當真的是又便宜又好吃,良心便當
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美麗島捷運站光之穹頂:傳達了“愛與包容”的精神,被美國旅遊網站BootsnAll評選為“2012年最美地鐵站”第二名。由義大利藝術家水仙大師(Narcissus Quagliata)親手打造,由四千五百片玻璃組合而成,是世界最大的一體成型單件玻璃公共藝術作品,也是世界最大玻璃鑲嵌藝術鉅作,由德國百年Derix手工玻璃工作坊製作,歷時四年半,直徑達30米,面積為660平方米。美麗島捷運站名字來源於臺灣前稱,16世紀荷蘭據臺時期,臺灣曾被稱為福爾摩沙,意思是“美麗之島”。這座光之穹頂上的各個人體交相呼應,所傳達的“包容”精神,更展現作品“水”、“土”、“光”、“火”四大區塊的意涵,呈現出人在世界裡,從誕生、成長、榮耀到毀滅,而後重生的輪迴過程。
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凝望穹頂時,找到一個做夢的地方。
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穿過六合夜市
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D8 駁二藝術區-打狗英國領事館-西子灣-墾丁
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從鹽埕埔站地鐵站出來,步行前往駁二藝術特區
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沿途不少街道都採用騎樓風格的建築形式,街面是用立柱形成甬道,留下人行通道。
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駁二藝術特區的名字來源於原來駁船碼頭的編號,高雄港第三船渠內的第二號接駁碼頭。
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遠處最高的建築就是高雄85大樓了,是目前高雄最高的建築,也是臺灣第二高建築,地上85層,地下5層。
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高雄港是世界集裝箱運輸的大港之一,曾長期位居世界貨櫃吞吐量第三大港,目前排名退居第六。
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高雄港規模巨大,遠處外海有大量貨運輪船停靠。
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坐計程車去吃牛肉麵,司機不斷抱怨遊客越來越少收入不如以前(那是2018年,他都如此難混生計了,現在自由行停了,也不知道他過的好不好)
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慕名而來
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打狗英國領事館(打狗為高雄的舊稱)是清朝時期外國人在臺灣建造的第一個領事館,西臨臺灣海峽,可以俯瞰高雄市區和港口。
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小小的二層樓建築,白色的格子窗,磚紅色的牆,迂迴寬敞的長廊,配著綠色的草坪,英倫風十足。
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遙望西子灣
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我在高雄的日子
拼車去墾丁,司機真的是飛一樣的開到了墾丁
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一下車就感受到了墾丁的熱情
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D9 墾丁西線
墾丁派出所出發,乘坐墾丁街車玩西線。
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第一站:南灣
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南灣因海水清澈透藍又被稱為“藍灣”。沙灘長約600公尺,是墾丁國家公園寬闊的沙灘,早年以“金沙白浪”被列為恆春八景之一。
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要提前看好時刻表,等車中~
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到後壁湖吃個飯
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後壁湖有著恆春最大的漁港以及最大的遊艇碼頭,可供120艘遊艇泊靠。每年4~7月以旗魚、雨傘魚、鬼頭刀、10月至翌年3月以黑皮劍旗魚、白皮魚獲量最豐。
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第三站:貓鼻頭
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貓鼻頭公園,位於臺灣島南端的西側岬角,為臺灣海峽與巴士海峽(臺灣島至菲律賓呂宋島之間的海域)的分界點,與鵝鑾鼻分別為臺灣島最南端突出為巴士海峽的兩個岬角,由於有一塊自海崖崩落的礁岩,外形像一隻貓,故而得名“貓鼻頭”。貓鼻頭是典型的珊瑚礁海岸侵蝕的地形,面對迎風面造成海蝕作用旺盛,因此這裡處處是崩崖、海蝕礁柱、海蝕溝、海蝕洞地貌。
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第四站:白沙灣
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白沙灣位於墾丁公園西海岸,屬於珊瑚礁海岸,《海角七號》、《那些年》、《少年派》等多部電影在此取景。白沙灣海水的藍,海水的清,異常的美。
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回到熱鬧的墾丁大街。
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D10 墾丁東線~吹吹太平洋的海風
在墾丁大街康是美藥妝店門口的華哥租車租上電動車,完成了電動車速成課程,兜風去啦。
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第一站:船帆石
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船帆石為附近臺地所滾落下來的巨型珊瑚礁岩。遠看像揚帆進港的船帆,因而得名。石頭上長滿了野草花卉與灌木,成為鳥群棲息的窩巢。近看則像美國前總統尼克松頭部,令人發笑。
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好象是看到了鯨魚呢
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除了在觀景臺欣賞海景,也可以步行100米到旁邊礁石潭撿珊瑚呢。
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第三站:砂島
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砂島沙灘長約220公尺,因細沙堆積如島而得名。其主要由貝殼、珊瑚碎屑與有孔蟲經長年沉積而形成,由於附近沒有溪流攜帶沙粒或雜質流入,因此貝殼砂的含量高達97%以上,位居墾丁所有沙灘之冠。這裡有美麗的貝殼砂,為了保護貝殼沙灘,已經封閉起來。
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砂島的這片海,是臺灣海峽。
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在海岸邊,想起余光中的“鄉愁是一灣淺淺的海峽,我在這頭,大陸在那頭”。
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第四站:鵝鑾鼻公園
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鵝鑾鼻公園位於臺灣最南端,為臺灣八景之一。鵝鑾鼻燈塔公園。名字裡雖然有鵝,但其實跟鵝並沒關係,鵝鑾鼻是當地少數民族排灣族的語言,是“帆”的譯音,因附近的香蕉灣有像帆船一樣的石頭,又加上這地形像是突出的鼻子,遂取鵝鑾鼻為名。這裡的燈塔就叫“鵝鑾鼻燈塔”。
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鵝鑾鼻公園的白色燈塔,是臺灣最南端的燈塔,也是臺灣光力最強的燈塔。
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鵝鑾鼻燈塔如果從塔腳開始算有21.5米高,按照海平面來計算有45米高,是最高的燈塔。燈塔裡有180萬燭光,相當於180萬根蠟燭的光,能照射30公里,被稱為“東亞之光”。
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第五站:駛向最南點
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臺灣最南點,立於東經120度50分0秒、北緯21度53分59秒,介於鵝鑾鼻公園與龍坑生態護區之間,是標示臺灣本島陸地最南點的一個水泥制標誌。
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吹著太平洋的風,終於在落日前趕到了龍磐公園。
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龍磐公園位於鵝鑾鼻與風吹沙之間。可從陡峭的崩崖遠眺曲折有致的海岸,此區域屬於上升的石灰岩臺地,由於石灰岩容易被水溶蝕,因此區內有石灰岩洞、滲穴、崩崖、紅土等地形景觀。
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太平洋的風一直在吹
舞影婆娑 在遼闊無際的海洋
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一日的環島一切幾乎都和海有關,藍天,綠草,白雲,擁抱此刻的溫柔,知足眼前的純真。
D11 墾丁- 花蓮
早上起來,終於放晴,在墾丁的兩日都是陰天
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走到民宿對面的海灘,戀戀不捨
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這裡就是我們住的民宿,價效比超高
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我在墾丁的日子
墾丁到花蓮可以走海線,也可以走山線。我們走的山線,多良車站-伯朗大道-北迴歸線標誌-瑞穗牧場-花蓮。
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多良火車站:南迴線規劃時,因瀧溪至金侖區間較長,選擇在多良興建車站供單線列車交會,站址原本為山坡地,兩端均為隧道,南迴鐵路工程處特別將車站以高架設計,站在月臺即可鳥瞰太平洋,號稱“臺灣最美車站”。
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蔚藍的海平面,柵欄,青山,鐵軌,有一種漫畫式的唯美。
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路過太麻里,這裡盛產釋迦,當時的我還不認識釋迦,可惜了
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池上火車站兩條街外便是池上飯包博物館,叫上一份池上便當,在懷舊的火車車廂裡慢慢感受幾十年前的熱門盒飯。
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池上最出名的有三樣東西,池上便當、伯朗大道、池上米,源頭都是池上的稻田。真想背上幾包回去。
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池上便當因為使用晶瑩軟糯的池上米而特別有名。
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臺灣的米真好吃啊,無論貴賤,都好好吃。。。
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吃好池上米,來到伯朗大道。
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伯朗大道是池上鄉的一條田園公路,因金城武在這裡拍攝“伯朗咖啡”廣告而廣為人知。
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伯朗大道迷人之處在於廣闊的稻田景緻,稻穗隨風搖曳,有如海浪撲面般的“稻浪”景緻,療愈系美景,一見傾心。
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北迴歸線橫穿臺灣島,在花蓮、嘉義、澎湖都有很多的北迴歸線標誌景點。北迴歸線是太陽在北半球能夠垂直射到的離赤道最遠的位置點,將這些點連起來的假想線便叫“北迴歸線”。
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瑞穗牧場現址原是一大片的木瓜田,每當颱風過後,辛苦種植的木瓜常落得全數泡湯的下場。現在靠著源自中央山脈的潔淨水源灌溉,瑞穗牧場種植出一片油亮碧綠的鮮美牧草,飼養著300多頭壯碩健康的荷蘭品種乳牛。近10年來,靠著統一瑞穗鮮乳的廣告,瑞穗牧場的名聲也越來越響亮。這裡的牛軋糖非常出名,吃吃冰淇淋,喂喂奶牛和鴕鳥,非常愜意。
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離開瑞穗牧場,駛向花蓮。花蓮市位於花蓮縣的中北部沿海,地處臺東縱谷北端,地勢枕山面海,東臨太平洋,是花蓮縣的行政、經濟、文化中心,也是臺灣東部最重要的城市。花蓮市原名“崎萊”,為阿美人對當地的稱呼,漢族移民稱之為“洄瀾”,是因為花蓮溪入海口處與海浪激盪,迂迴澎湃,故稱洄瀾。清同治年間,以其諧音改稱花蓮。臺灣的縣、市概念與我們正好相反,所以花蓮市是隸屬於花蓮縣的。
D12 花蓮出海啦
出海賞鯨豚:每年的4月至10月,是海豚的求偶期,這段時間,它們會大量躍出海面,以表演來尋得佳偶。海豚通常是成群結隊出現,運氣好的話,會看到幾十或上百頭海豚在海面跳躍,甚至在船首乘浪。在花蓮,有“看到領航鯨,能交一年好運”的說法。如果深究起來,這個說法與當地人從事漁撈有關。每年4月份東北季風逐漸減弱,臺灣東部海域有黑潮洋流經過,黑潮裡有豐富的魚類,花蓮漁民用箱網將黑潮攔下,魚被圍下來,然後再去捕獲。黑潮裡的魚類,同樣吸引著鯨跟著來,而看到鯨,也就意味著有很多魚,預示著這一年會有好收成。
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雖然今天天氣不好,我們還是抱著既然來了就去看看的心態出發啦
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好幸運,我們遇到了短肢領航鯨家族
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追鯨之旅開始啦
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歡快的短肢領航鯨家族
浪裡個浪
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出海沒有吃暈船藥,下船還是有點暈眩感,回去休息一下,來到七星潭。
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七星潭在花蓮城市北面,緊鄰花蓮航空站,雖被稱為潭,卻是一個由大大小小的礫石所鋪陳的弧形海灣。1936年日本人,為興建沿海飛行場,將原本的七星潭填平,七星潭住民遷到現在的七星海灣一帶居住並自稱是七星潭人,久而久之該海灣也被稱作七星潭。花蓮航空站底下,原來就是七星潭沼澤舊址。
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在這片礫石海灣是禁止遊客游泳的,這裡是一個斷崖,離開岸邊一小段距離,馬上就海水驟深,附近有海底黑潮暗流,海底水流情況非常複雜,也因此這片海灣有很多被黑潮來帶的魚群,附近海面上看到多個大型海上圍網。
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不像傳統的沙灘,七星潭的沙灘是成片的鵝卵石,躺在鵝卵石上,吹著海風,聽著海浪的聲音,簡直不能更愜意。
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據說壘七顆石頭可以帶來好運
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戴記扁食沒開門,出租司機帶我們去了本地人愛光顧的液香扁食。
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吃好飯溜達一圈
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看看夜晚的花蓮
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隨處可見的選舉廣告
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花蓮縣警察局花蓮分局
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路過花蓮文化創意產業園區
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花蓮文化創意產業園區前身為舊花蓮酒廠,建築充滿歷史韻味,由日式造酒廠改造。
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好吃的池上飯包
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檳榔店
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D13 花東縱谷
今天坐檯灣好行花東縱谷線遊花蓮。花東縱谷是臺灣東部縱谷地形景觀,夾於中央山脈和海岸山脈之間,由菲律賓板塊與歐亞大陸板塊所擠壓形成,因橫跨花蓮、臺東兩縣而得名。
第一站:吉安慶修院
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進入神社祭祀前需要先淨身,供朝拜者洗手的小亭
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日系風情的小寺院,是從日據時期至今臺灣唯一儲存完整的日式寺院。神龕、不動明王石刻、光明真言百萬遍石碑、88尊神態各異的石佛,清幽靜美。
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頻繁飛過的軍機
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隨處可見的急救裝置
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第二站:鯉魚潭
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鯉魚潭:位於花蓮壽豐鄉池南村鯉魚山下,是花蓮縣內最大的內陸湖泊。當地人原稱之為“大陂”,阿美族人則稱之為“巴鬧”,後因東傍鯉魚山而被命名為鯉魚潭。
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鯉魚潭水最清澈透底,其水源自潭心湧出。
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第三站:立川漁場
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立川漁場位於花蓮縣的壽豐鄉,是一處以養殖黃金蜆、金鐏、香魚及水鰻等水產,並研發醃制蜆、蜆精、蜆錠、蜆丸等加工品的觀光漁場。
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第四站:雲山水
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這裡是一片私人所有區域,建築物都是私人別墅,相當幽靜。
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第五站:林田山林場
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1918年,日本人開始在花東縱谷內的林田山地區進行伐木作業,並遷移了大批移民到這裡居住,工程隊在這裡修建了鐵路、索道以及生活起居的相關設施,讓林田山蛻變成了一個具有完備生活功能的小城鎮,全盛時常住人口高達2000多人,被譽為“臺灣檜木之鄉“,曾是全臺第四大林場。90年代停止伐木後,林場轉為觀光用途,古色古香的日式檜木房舍,鋪滿落葉的舊鐵軌,寂靜停靠的小火車都完整儲存了下來。
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花東縱谷線有時刻表,公交站都設在景點門口,只要按照時間到公交站等車就可以了,超方便。
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第六站:光復糖廠
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民國2年,東臺製糖株式會社在花蓮縣壽豐鄉設立花蓮港製糖所,又稱為鯉魚尾糖廠;民國10年另在光復鄉設立大和工廠,以擴大製糖產量。二次大戰末期,這兩處糖廠均遭盟軍毀損。光復後,臺糖公司接收,決定拆除毀損較嚴重的壽豐工廠,修復大和工廠並更名為花蓮糖廠,成為東部地區的製糖重心。由於糖廠位於光復鄉,因此常被稱為光復糖廠,其實花蓮糖廠才是它正式的名稱。花蓮糖廠歷經數十年的擴建與更新,製糖產量與質量大幅提升,而為了供應花蓮糖廠的製糖原料,北起新城鄉,南至富里鄉,都可見到廣闊的甘蔗田,成為花東縱谷裡的特殊景觀,到糖廠吃冰早已成為大家心中充滿歡樂氣氛的共同記憶。
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製糖裝置、日式宿舍建築、老倉庫、復古小火車營造出濃濃的懷舊氛圍。
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D14 清水斷崖-太魯閣-宜蘭-瑞芳
在花蓮的最後一天終於放晴(好像每個地方最後一天都會放晴,感恩)
包車去看清水斷崖啦(清水斷崖臺灣好行不到,坐火車什麼也不方便,只能包車半日遊)
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連線宜蘭縣與花蓮縣的蘇花公路,全長118公里,這條公路以沿斷層海岸修築而聞名。清水斷崖,是舉世罕見的海岸斷崖奇觀,是蘇花公路最驚險壯麗的代表景觀,也是臺灣八大奇景之一。
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除懸崖峭壁、山岩聳立,驚濤裂岸,碧海萬頃。
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清水斷崖位於清水山東側,所以名字才有“清水”二字,景觀公路自蘇花公路和平至崇德之間,綿延21公里。其中清水山東南大斷崖尤其險峻,絕壁臨海面長達5公里,成90度角直插入太平洋,高度均在800米以上,氣派雄偉,號稱世界第二大斷崖。清水斷崖是900多萬年前由亞歐大陸板塊和菲律賓板塊碰撞、擠壓、隆起上升形成。加上常年累月的雨水侵蝕和風化作用,最終形成今天的斷崖景觀。
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400年前,葡萄牙水手航行到東方,遠眺到一座翡翠般的美麗島嶼,驚呼讚歎“Formosa”(葡語:美麗之島),這就是臺灣別稱“福爾摩沙”的由來。花蓮縣政府聲稱,當時葡萄牙水手看到的就是今天的花蓮清水斷崖一帶。
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太魯閣離清水斷崖很近,便來到此一遊。
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徒步砂卡步道
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大名鼎鼎的燕子口步道沒有開放
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我在花蓮歡樂多
結束了花蓮之旅,坐檯鐵去宜蘭。
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前幾天臺鐵宜蘭段剛剛發生了事故,臺灣的新聞都在吵這個事情,心有餘悸來到宜蘭。。
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火車站寄存好行李,過馬路,對面就是丟丟當森林,走進幾米的童話世界。
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如果我也可以許一個願望,我想“我的心中每天開出一朵花”,我想去聽“森林裡的祕密”。
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幾米公園:以幾米的繪本故事《向左走,向右走》《星空》《忘記親一下》《地下鐵》《世界別為我擔心》為藍本,把鐵路局舊宿舍、廢棄空地、車站等地重新規劃,在宜蘭火車站附近集中呈現了幾米主題的廣場和裝置藝術公園。
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繽紛的繪本世界
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幸福轉運站
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坐著臺鐵去瑞芳,一路海景
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D15 瑞芳-平溪線-九份
平溪線,是連線山谷小鎮的鐵路支線,是時光在一個連一個的隧道中忽明忽暗的閃爍,是青春往事,是《戀戀風塵》的無奈和坦然。
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平溪線於1912年7月全線完工,原本是臺陽礦業株式會社所出資興建的運煤專用鐵路。到了1929年才轉賣給臺灣總督府鐵道部(日據時代),經過整建之後開始兼辦客運,20世紀80年代由於煤礦場大多關閉,以及人口流失等因素,平溪線的營運虧損,臺灣鐵路管理局曾經打算停止營運平溪線鐵路。經過地方人士的積極爭取,因而保留,為僅存的臺鐵三大支線鐵路(平溪線、內灣線、集集線),也成為仍繼續營運的鐵路支線當中,歷史最悠久也是風景最美麗的客運支線。
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第一站:菁桐站,一直保留著日據時代的風格,於1929年通車後,車站一直以來都保留原始風貌,是臺灣僅存四個日式木造車站之一。臺鐵平溪線的終點亦是起點,因煤礦曾經繁忙的礦場小鎮,破舊的鐵軌,滄桑的建築,像是被時間遺忘的角落,電影裡30年前舊時光的模樣和質感,停滯在這山谷裡。
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那些年裡面男女主角走鐵軌的地方
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十分-幸福
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第二站:平溪站
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平溪站,那些年男女主角放天燈的地方。
我們也在這裡放天燈祈福。
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第三站:十分車站
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被賦予“十分幸福”的美好寓意,因《那些年》在此取景而聞名。
十分站最出名的就是那一句“十分站到了,下一站,幸福”。
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靜安吊橋
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回到瑞芳,排隊吃個龍鳳腿、牛肉麵,上九份咯
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九份:在清朝時期僅有九戶人家,郵差來送東西必送“九份”,因稱九份。
這裡因為發掘出了金子而繁榮,又因為發掘光了金子而被人遺忘。
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九份老街保留著日本舊時生活風貌,紅燈籠、窄巷道、青石階、斑駁的木質建築等,風格獨特,因《悲情城市》和《千與千尋》聲名遠播。
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摩肩接踵
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昇平戲院,售票處、六連座木椅、老舊電影資料、海報、讓人彷佛親眼見到時光倒流。
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阿妹茶樓是九份老街地標性建築,宮崎郡電影《千與千尋》裡湯婆婆的湯屋就是以此為靈感畫出的。
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九份這座神祕的小山城,由於激發了動畫大師宮崎駿的靈感,而名聲大噪。
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依山而建的木屋掛著一盞盞紅燈籠,夜晚的阿妹茶樓,放佛走進了千與千尋的童話故事一般。
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D16 九份-瑞芳-臺北
在九份的咖啡店,感受九份的放鬆和懷舊,看《悲情城市》的九份,《戀戀風塵》的九份。
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金瓜石和九份非常近,而且都以礦業聞名,被人稱為“金九地區”。
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清光緒十六年(1890年),在金九地區修築鐵路的工人在河道中發現砂金,從而引發了一股淘金熱潮。後來的很多淘金客都為了實現淘金夢來此尋找金礦。1893年,淘金客在九份山區附近發現了小金瓜金脈露頭,而在此之後不久,淘金客也在附近發現了大金瓜露頭。因為大小金瓜的山型很像南瓜,臺語中南瓜就是“金瓜”,所以得名“金瓜石”。1938年,金瓜石礦區的黃金產量已經達到了約七萬兩的高峰,被譽為“亞洲第一貴金屬礦山”。將近十萬人在這山間聚集起來,都是為了圓自己的淘金夢,現在金瓜石的採礦事業已經終止。
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220公斤的大金磚:這塊金磚是999.9純金熔鑄而成,曾獲得吉尼斯世界紀錄的世界最大金磚榮譽,堪稱鎮館之寶。
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回瑞芳坐檯鐵回臺北,十六天的環島旅行匆匆結束,臺灣人的溫良恭儉讓名不虛傳,青春記憶中的臺灣,我來過了。
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