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泰北,我輕輕的來到,靜靜的離開,留下一串淡淡的腳印,帶走一股濃濃的眷戀…
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清邁的護城河與古城牆
三十多年前,鄧麗君的《小城故事》唱出了清邁的感覺和味道。然而,時過境遷,清邁似乎也由一個村姑變成了少婦。但那正正方方的護城河卻任由星移斗轉、署寒更迭,依然情義款款、不離不棄地纏綿圍繞著老城的四周,宛如美人腰間一束秀美的絲帶。清清的河水悠然流淌,兩岸小草翠綠、樹木茂盛、鮮花綻放。那經歷了滄桑歲月的古城牆,雖已斷壁殘垣,但仍具老驥伏櫪 志在千里之威!古城牆擁偎著護城河,一道護衛著老城。清邁的護城河與古城牆構成了清邁一道最為靚麗的風景線,是一種永恆之美。
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走進金三角,遊覽湄公河
金三角承載著多少驚心動魄的歷史?湄公河隱藏著多少血雨腥風的往事?從兒時起,這兩個名字就不時地進入我們的視線,震動著我們的耳膜,加之媒體的演繹和渲染,使這兩個名字更蒙上一層神祕的面紗。這次天涯孤旅,隻身走進金三角,遊覽湄公河,親臨其境,耳聞變成目睹,神祕變成現實,揭去了金三角與湄公河神祕的面紗,也了卻了一個小小的心願。
金三角位於泰國、寮國、緬甸交界地帶,也是湄公河與湄賽河交匯之處。站在金三角,一眼望三國。由於自然、經濟、政治等諸多因素影響,這裡曾經毒品氾濫,是世界上毒品的重要來源地。前些年,泰寮緬三國共同協力,嚴厲整治,成效顯著,目前該地區鴉片種植和交易似乎已銷聲匿跡。金三角在泰國方面的行政區域叫索拉(隸屬於清萊府清盛),曾經是鴉片交易的核心所在。如今這裡顯得寧靜祥和,秩序井然。
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佛法普度金三角
佛法無邊,普度眾生。金三角一帶供有很多佛像。尊尊大佛俯視大地,關懷人間。可能正是在佛法的感化之下,才使得金三角變孽障為善良,化腐朽為新生。
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清盛,一座悠閒自得、與世無爭的小城
清萊府的清盛是泰國最北端的邊陲小城,與寮國隔湄公河相望。她曾經是一個小國,一度被緬甸侵佔,後被泰國奪回。昔日,這裡也曾經毒品氾濫,如今,罌粟花已變成了向日葵🌻。小城清潔、安寧、幽靜,人們淳樸、友善。小吃夜市很有特點,湄公河邊擺一些燒烤攤,食客們席地而坐,享受當地美食。我點了一份竹筒烤魚,新鮮美味,一邊小飲著泰國啤酒,一邊沐潤著湄公河的陣陣微風,怡然自得、獨享其樂。我到哪裡都喜歡跟當地人聊聊天,燒烤小夥兒很憨厚熱情,生意不忙時向我介紹了一些當地的風土人情。路邊的酒吧也是當地的年輕人在消遣。這裡晚間遊客很少,絕大多數遊客都是白天來,點個卯就走,算是清邁-清萊一日遊的一部分。我獨來獨往,行程由己,在這裡住了一晚,體驗了小城的晝夜之美。
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寮國,寮國!— 湄公河畔之寮國
乘船從泰國索拉出發,遊覽湄公河。淺黃微濁的湄公河水平靜無瀾,悄然無聲,或許往昔的刀光劍影、是非曲直都刻在了河底。順流而下,對岸寮國的風光盡收眼底,幾座華人投資的賭場富麗堂皇。期間呵五嚒六,紙醉金迷的情景不難想象。終於,在寮國木棉島登陸,這裡是一個經濟特區,乾淨整齊,有一個挺大的小商品貿易市場,吸引了眾多遊客。島上還有一片樹林和一些亭子,很有特色。乘船返回索拉,在船上仰視金三角上觀音菩薩塑像,更生敬仰之情。
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優雅聖潔的清萊白廟
泰國廟宇建築絕大多數為金黃色,而清萊白廟脫凡超俗,獨樹一幟。白廟玲瓏剔透,雅緻端莊,純潔神聖,美輪美奐!
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你好,素可泰!
乘坐長途汽車從清萊出發,一路向南,途徑許許多多山林、田野、城鎮、村莊,歷經九個小時,來到了素可泰,一座泰國歷史上最古老、最重要的城市。泰北人性格溫穩,從容淡定,這一點從汽車司機身上體現得淋漓盡致,一路上聽著小曲,開起車來也是逛大街的節奏,說好了的七個小時行程,愣是走了九個小時。下了長途汽車,又坐突突車,終於來到了預定的旅館,一家悉心經營的民宿式旅館。還未下車,旅館的三位工作人員一齊出來迎接,熱情備至、寒暄不斷,讓人有一種走親戚的感覺。好了,明天還要起早去看日出呢……
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看日出 – 沙潘欣寺
晚上,雷聲大作,暴雨傾盆,看日出的計劃是否會泡湯?凌晨,在鬧鐘的召喚下,急忙起床。月光下,地面已無下過大雨的痕跡。泰北的天氣似乎經常這樣,夜裡瓢潑大雨,早晨了無痕跡,只是滋潤了植物,潔淨了空氣,清掃了地面,像是天然的灑水車。沙潘辛位於一座小山上,是看日出的最佳地點。半里多地的石階小路有些崎嶇陡峭。朦朧中,拾階而上。山頂上,一尊大佛巍然屹立,雄偉,又有些神祕。稍等片刻,太陽隱約露面,在薄薄的雲層間緩慢穿梭,忽隱忽現。看日出時的心情總是有幾分期待、幾許興奮。旭日之下,整個素可泰古城輪廓已顯現出來,雖不清晰,卻帶些許朦朧之美。
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素可泰,一座有故事的古城
鄧麗君的《小城故事》唱的是清邁。在我看來,素可泰似乎是一座更有故事的小城,而且故事很長、很多……
素可泰是素可泰王朝的首都。素可泰王朝是泰國歷史上第一個王朝,始建於十三世紀,大約與我國南宋時代同期。素可泰古城現為聯合國教科文組織世界文化遺產,古都內原有佛寺愈百座,佛像愈千尊。佛塔、佛像、佛柱,古老、滄桑、雄偉、莊嚴、神聖。
租了一輛自行車,頂著烈日,冒著高溫,騎行於各個寺廟之間,彷彿是穿梭於歷史和現實之間。雖然汗流浹背,卻享受著一種滿足和愜意。累且快樂著!
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古寺·樹上銘
旅遊,是自然欣賞,是視野開闊,是人文探索,是歷史追溯,是文化體驗,是性情陶冶,是道德提升,是娛樂,是運動,更是學習。這些照片是素可泰一座寺院的“樹上銘”,類似於咱們的“座右銘”。雖然有些英文版的諺語以前見過,但是在寺院這種肅穆、莊嚴、神聖、超然的環境,懷著景仰之情、虔誠之心,讀起來倍感教誨和啟發,淨化和昇華靈魂,營養和滋潤心田。
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素可泰夜市
素可泰老城在某種程度上來說,似乎還沉浸在百年以前的寧靜。白天,不算寬敞的馬路上,行人稀落,主要是一些三三兩兩的歐美遊客。可是到了夜晚,古城邊上的小吃夜市卻非常熱鬧,形形色色的食料,各種各樣的做法,五花八門的小吃,大都叫不出名字,不過,既好看又好吃,這兩天的晚餐就是在這裡嘗百家飯嘍
。有點遺憾的是,胃太小
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清邁·契迪龍寺
契迪龍寺,是清邁市區內最大、最著名的廟宇,已有七百多年曆史。氣勢恢弘,雄偉壯觀。
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清邁·素帖山雙龍寺
雙龍寺座落在一座山上,因珍藏釋迦牟尼舍利子而著名。一口氣登上300多級臺階,也算是一個小考驗了。
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清邁·蒲屏皇宮花園
不許穿短褲入園,又不提供圍裙,害得俺不得不臨時買了一條花褲子穿上。
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清邁·茵他儂國家公園-雙塔和花園
茵他儂國家公園內的國王、王后雙塔及王後花園。曾跟幾個當地泰國人聊天,他們都喜歡逝世不久的老國王,不太待見新國王。
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清邁·茵他儂山瀑布和原始村落
茵他儂國家公園內的兩個瀑布。
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茵他儂山頂,2600米高,是泰國最高點。山下攝氏35度,山頂攝氏9度。
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茵他儂山上的原始村落及紡織女,據說她們三天可以織一條圍巾。
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清邁·塔佩門
塔佩門(古城門)和古城牆,雖經七百多年的歲月盪滌,風雨沖刷,如今依舊巍然屹立,雄偉示人。
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清邁·寺廟和佛像
泰國佛教興盛,清邁寺廟林立,有的金碧輝煌,雄偉壯觀;有的鏽跡斑斑,滄桑莊嚴。
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清邁·寧曼路
寧曼路,一個充滿美食、時尚、休閒、清新的地方。第一街上有美食廣場,第十三街上也有很多特色店鋪和飯館,傳說中的“Mongo Tango” 就在這條街上。
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美食印象
青木瓜/芒果沙拉、冬陰功湯、竹筒烤魚、泰北烤魚、糯米飯芒果飯、紅/綠咖哩菜、尤其是熱帶水果和即榨的果汁,讓人口齒留香,吃了還想吃。雖然也去嚐了傳說中的千人火鍋、鳳飛飛豬腳飯,但是印象一般。最為難忘的是在金三角附近、湄公河畔的小吃夜市上,小小炕桌、席地而坐,吃著竹筒烤魚,喝著泰國啤酒,真是嘴上舒服、胃裡滿足、心中暢爽!
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清邁·美食夜市
青木瓜沙拉和青芒果沙拉是很有特點的泰國美食,也是我的最愛。清邁美食夜市上的這家沙拉小店沙拉做法很具特色:先是把新鮮沙拉調味原料放進瓦罐中手工碾碎、混合,然後放入主料調拌。非常新鮮可口!
帶有現場音樂的清邁美食夜市,美食+人氣,爆棚滿滿!沒來過這裡,不算來過清邁。
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清邁·芒果探戈(Mango Tango)
費了不少打聽,才找到了這家傳說的芒果探戈食品店。不過也不虛此行,這裡的糯米椰汁芒果飯果然很好吃,“樹上熟”的大芒果真的很美味!店內的裝潢風格也很獨特 – 也許芒果園裡用得上這些杴耙鏟耙。
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泰北,一個不乏小清新的地方
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Bye 泰北,Hello 另一個遠方!
世界那麼大,我要去溜達!因為,我愛世界,我愛遠方!
本文章將原文轉貼為繁體中文方便閱讀