Day1:廣州—大阪—高野山
5月份才從熊野古道和高野山徒步回來,按捺不住自己對那片山林的嚮往,加上剛好有朋友7月初過生日,於是,便很快計劃了此次的行程。
7月1日一大早8點35分的飛機,飛往大阪。中午抵達後,在關西機場的南海線櫃檯購買當日去往高野山的點車票。從關西機場到高野山,要在天下茶屋站轉南海電車高野山線。
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南海電車高野山線的的終點站是極樂橋站,要到達海拔1000米以上的高野山,必須在極樂橋站坐上山纜車。
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一整天都在路上奔波,到達西禪院的時候,已經超過5點。西禪院的晚餐供應時間只有5點和5點30分,我要了5點30分的晚餐,住進房間不一會兒,全素的高野山精進料理便送了進來。
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晚餐後出去散步,拍拍花花草草,順便和垣添桑見面,約定了第二天見面的時間和地點。
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Day2:高野山
早餐是在大廳享用的,坐在榻榻米上吃飯,說實話,真心不是一種享受……
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高野山町石道,世界遺產組成部分,每109米為1町建有町石柱,從高野山下慈尊院開始到壇上伽藍根本大塔為止的22公里表參道共計180町,根本大塔通往奧之院的4公里道路共計36町。高野山町石道的由來,是在1200多年前,高野山開山祖師弘法大師(空海大師)每週都會從高野山出發,下山去看望在尊慈院修行的母親,於是便有了高野山町石道。
今天是這次行程裡唯一一次徒步,為的是彌補兩個月前未能完成的高野山町石道。垣添桑在得知我的計劃後,特意從岐阜縣趕來陪我走,真的很感謝他。
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山裡還是有熊的,要小心……
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一開始徒步,我們都覺得這條古道比兩個月前走的熊野古道中邊路和小邊路要容易走。實在是大錯特錯了,最後3公里的下坡路走得我快要崩潰。
天氣還是熱了些,一路上補充了三支水,結果全程都沒有去衛生間。走到終點站的時候,已經可以聞到自己身上的汗臭味。
今天有一個奇遇:徒步路上遇到了5男1女的“牛人”。上午從對面跑過,下午從後面跑著超過垣添桑和我。我們花了7個小時走了22.5公里,他們跑了一個來回……真不知道是我們太弱還是他們太強……
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沿途風景依舊是美的,還路過了一個高爾夫球場。喜歡徒步的童鞋,如果覺得熊野古道徒步時間太長,可以嘗試下高野山町石道。1200年曆史的古道,一天來回,值得擁有……
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在南海線九度山站乘坐電車返回高野山……
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晚餐來一發……和昨天晚餐的菜式不一樣,紙火鍋裡的湯汁是相當濃郁的豆漿……回到西禪院的時間比規定的晚餐時間遲了一個小時,謝謝垣添桑幫我打電話給寺院解釋,謝謝經理同意為我留晚餐,謝謝兼一君加班等我……
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Day3:高野山
高野山的細節……不管是多麼古舊的老物,都能與自然融為一體……
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高野山奧之院,兩個月前已經去過……
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週一似乎是休息日,很多餐館都不營業。超級想吃蕎麥涼麵啊!終於找到了一家……
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吃飽後,去參觀了高野山靈寶館,裡面都是各家寺院的藏品,內部禁止拍照……
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一座橋,三個景……
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高野山總“山頭”——高野山金剛峰寺。1000多年曆史的寺院,擁有全日本最大的枯山水——蟠龍庭。本堂內的屏風美絕了,門票只要不到40軟妹幣,還能在空曠的大廳裡免費喝杯茶,吃份小點心,真是良心價……
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給我布餐的大叔問我:這樣的食物連吃三天,你受得了嗎?我笑著回答:我很喜歡吃啊!因為非常美味!
以下是內心的吶喊:明早請給老孃來一碗打滷麵!
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飯後百步走,路遇高野山警察局……
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我要吐槽一下這個地方:舊時代,高野山規定女性不得入山門參拜。於是,在山門外修建了多個女人堂。虔誠的女人們翻山越嶺來到高野山,卻不得入內,只能在山門外的女人堂參拜。即使有地藏尊菩薩在對面守護,這何嘗不是一種屈辱?
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Day4:高野山—大阪—有馬溫泉
一早在西禪院退房,拖著箱子坐車轉車來到大阪站,與過生日的朋友匯合。我告訴他,在中國過生日要吃長壽麵,於是,他拖著箱子帶著我走了1個多小時,終於吃上了拉麵……
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然後在大阪站乘坐大巴去往有馬溫泉,入住Arima Hot Spring Ryokan Hanamusubi,一晚包早晚餐40392日元。晚餐是當季料理,很新鮮,喝了酒吃了蛋糕,給朋友慶祝生日。
預約了晚上10點的私人溫泉,兩個人泡得很舒服。
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Day5:有馬溫泉—神戶
非常豐盛的早餐,吃得又香又飽……
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從酒店退房後,坐電車來到神戶,先把行李放在酒店前臺,朋友便拖著我11路逛神戶。結果,兩個人光是顧著聊天,都沒拍照……然後,又是被他帶著走了2個多小時,找到了飯點。不過,這次真的超好吃……
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吃完飯,朋友送我回到酒店,便乘電車回家,準備明天好好上班。酒店的名字是Kobe Motomachi Tokyu REI Hotel,三晚包自助早餐一共33210日元,就在南京町旁邊,離神戶元町站和神戶港很近,交通便利。
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Day6:姬路
西式自助早餐,沒有拍照的慾望。但這個,真是讓人心情愉悅啊!
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姬路城,又叫“白鷺城”,是世界文化遺產。去過十多個日本名城,姬路城不愧為最美……
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午餐就在姬路城對面的食堂解決,900日元的雞蛋牛肉蓋飯+掛麵套餐……
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好古園就在姬路城旁邊,可以買聯票一起觀賞。夏日的好古園,碧水潺潺,綠樹茵茵……
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從姬路返回神戶的半路上,在舞子站下車,拍了一張明石跨海大橋……
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傍晚來到神戶港,海風習習,心曠神怡……每個角度都很美……
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晚餐由在日本經常幫我代購護膚品的美女做東,餐館在三宮站附近的一個巷子裡。非常地道的懷石料理,連芥末都是用山葵現磨的……
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Day7:神戶
“Love Kobe”系列第二版……
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在神戶市內,尤其是坐落在俯視海港高臺上的北野至今仍留存著明治時代遺留下來的異人館(為境外人的居住所建的房子,主要採用了西洋風格的建築)。隨著1968年神戶海港的開放而發展起來的這個城市裡,在明治時代已有很多境外人來日居住此地,作為境外人的住宅,異人館開始逐漸建起來。在這裡可以體驗到充滿異國風情的文化與歷史,是個神戶屈指的觀光景點。
北野異人館街上的星巴克……
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英國館……
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法國館,地毯都是玫瑰花紋,真浪漫……
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據說,當年這家的主人是做動物皮毛和標本生意的……
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最初的中國領事館……自家人,感覺還是相當親切啊!
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北野境外人俱樂部……在國內從不玩變裝的我,竟然也不能免俗……
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建於明治38年的境外人居留地商館,外牆的魚鱗狀設計是它最大的特色,現在已是小型博物館……
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北野異人館街上各館的模型……
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六甲山牧場的牛奶製作的冰淇淋,號稱是全日本第一的冰淇淋,名不虛傳啊!
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風見雞館,德國商人托馬斯的舊宅……
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萌黃之館,是原美國總領事亨特夏普的公館,也是此次異人館街之行我最喜歡的建築。因為……它叫“萌黃”……但是,有些名不副實了,應該叫“萌綠”才對!
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夜幕降臨,再次來到清新的神戶港……
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Day8:神戶—大阪
因為回廣州的飛機是早上9點半,所以預訂了一晚在關西機場附近的酒店。早晨從神戶退房後,坐電車來到關西機場附近的臨空站。
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在臨空站裡吃了午飯,感覺連晚飯也一起解決了。分量超大,但是鰻魚飯真心好吃到爆啊!
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臨空奧特萊斯,一路上全是俺們同胞,因為是週六,所以日本人也相當多……
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酒店大堂的機器人,聽不懂英文的趕腳……
奧特萊斯逛得索然無味,空手而歸。還好,有Star Gate Hotel Kansai Airport的“海景房”安慰我。於是,吃糖喝茶看海景,完美……
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下午睡了2個小時,等到太陽快落山,去酒店旁邊的臨空公園散步。海風怡人,雖然不是晴天,但依舊可以清晰看見海對面關西國際空港的航班起降。夜幕下,我的酒店和摩天輪配一臉。37層看到的夜景還是極美的……
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Day9:大阪—廣州
回家前,在酒店房間裡拍下美麗的海上日出……
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我的其它遊記
2013年11月日本本州15日自由行://www.mafengwo.cn/i/7578689.html
2016年1月西班牙10日自由行://www.mafengwo.cn/i/7422878.html
2016年2月北海道9日自由行://www.mafengwo.cn/i/7384466.html
2016年10月奧地利14日自由行://www.mafengwo.cn/i/7378445.html
2017年1月阿聯酋8日自由行://www.mafengwo.cn/i/7410113.html
2017年4月日本熊野古道徒步://www.mafengwo.cn/i/7132091.html
2018年4月北海道11日自由行://www.mafengwo.cn/i/9437189.html
2018年7月富士山登山8日自由行://www.mafengwo.cn/i/10462382.html
本文章將原文轉貼為繁體中文方便閱讀