拖拖拉拉快一年了，這是去年十一的時候去的，現在才開始寫遊記，有些記憶已經有些模糊了。以後還是要儘早寫
。雖然已經快一年了，但是現在回想起來還是覺得這段經歷很難忘。
先來說說風牙者榜(或峰牙己榜，有很多不同的翻譯)國家公園（Phong Nha Ke Bang），國人可能很少聽過這個名字，相比于越南南部的美奈等地方，它幾乎可以算是默默無聞，但是實際上人家可是被聯合國教科文組織評為的世界自然遺產。離越南首都河內五百多公里，距離同海市44公里。
由於交通不是特別便利，這個公園比較小眾，基本不在國人的旅行列表中。但是這裡卻深受歐美人的喜愛，到處可見歐美遊客，喜歡自然景觀以及洞穴探險的童鞋們可以考慮把它加到你們的To-do list中去。
國內關於這個公園的遊記少之又少，詳細完整的遊記基本找不到，我基本是通過TripAdvisor等國外網站拼湊的資訊。一方面是想避開十一出遊高峰，另一方面骨子裡喜歡獵奇和探險，也不知哪來的勇氣帶著老公公公婆婆一起踏上了小眾之旅，結果嘞，這種形式的旅行實在不太適合老人家去，還好公公婆婆比較疼我，一家人毫無怨言地陪我虐自己
。下次還是隻虐自己和虐老公吧，帶爸爸媽媽們旅行還是適合躺著看看大海的那種形式。
關於簽證
越南與中國有領土紛爭，所以越南簽證是不會貼在我們的護照上的，是一張單獨的紙。我們是找淘寶辦的，印象中除了照片也沒提供什麼資料，非常好辦，完全不用費心。
關於交通
1. 南寧-河內 國際火車
我們是從南寧乘坐跨國火車到河內, 215一張，軟臥，也是找淘寶幫忙買的，因為國際火車的票每天只賣四十幾張，我們又是節假日出行，所以需要提前買。淘寶代買每張加三十左右。南寧下午六點二十出發，早上五點不到到達河內嘉林火車站。你們可能覺得軟臥睡一晚就到了沒什麼，事實上是半夜要被拉起來兩次，辦理出境入境， 還要帶著所有行李下去安檢😂😂，每次都是才睡一兩個小時拉起來，再睡一兩個小時再被拉起來
困
。
這裡說一下入境的時候，越南海關會要一個個卡要小費，我當時很困正處於迷糊狀態，裝著沒聽懂的樣子，跟他四目對視了一會兒，然後他就放棄了，蓋了章😂。建議大家團結一致，堅決不給，不能助長了他們這種厚臉皮的不良行為。
2. 河內- 同海（Dong Hoi） 飛機
我是在越南航空官網訂的round trip，
具體價格記不得了，只記得很便宜。要多看看多比較一下，每天甚至每時刻價格都不一樣，花點時間你會找到價效比很高的票。這個小飛機坐的我也是印象深刻啊，顛簸的嘞，嚇得小心臟撲通撲通的。
3. 訂的酒店接機（說是酒店其實是farmstay），再通過酒店預定的行程。後面會詳細說。
關於住宿
我們住的是phong nha farmstay. 通過官網找到的郵箱，發郵件預定。 我還問了很多問題，比如天氣怎麼樣，行程怎麼樣，怎麼去等等，稍後我會把郵件附上供大家參考。
關於行程
Farmstay有個小本本，上面全是行程介紹。大家可以去了以後根據自己的需求再訂。附上照片給大家參考。
我們由於時間有限，就住了三晚。第一晚主要是溝通行程和享受了鄉村慢生活， 晚上會有菲律賓的歌手駐唱，坐在沙發上，看著星星，聽著歌還是很愜意的。
第二天風芽洞和鄉村騎行
phong nha cave是自助行程，酒店沒有行程安排，但是有攻略，如上圖。farmstay提供免費的自行車， 可以把自行車停在easy tiger, 步行到phong nha買票。15000越南盾一張票，一搜船是360000越南盾，可以在門口找人拼船，划算點。
入口，進去後找售票視窗買票
風芽洞是溼洞，需要坐船進去
如果不是雨季的話，可以選擇另一條線路，深入風芽洞，售票口有介紹，感覺更有意思
。
從洞出來，吃了頓印度菜，還挺好吃，人均在五十左右。吃完午飯以後，就開始騎行
。因為是雨季，道路很泥濘，騎車技術不好的容易摔跤，我是不會告訴你除了我，另外三個人都摔了。空氣清新，環境很天然，我們總共騎了大概二十公里吧，三分之二都是泥巴路，虐自己虐的好爽，虐完看到的風景更美。
Duck shop
wild boar eco farm
回程的時候有點晚了，都是山路沒有燈，差點沒回得去。感謝谷歌地圖，帶我們回到了farmstay.
第三天的行程
早上去了天堂洞，8ladies洞。
天堂洞路線圖，我們這次只走了前面已經開發了的短短一段。好想深入進去看看
天堂洞。跟桂林差不多
8ladies cave. 穿著需要超過膝蓋，如果不到，在門口有毯子，需要裹著。附上一隻裹著毯子有點辣眼睛的老臘肉
下午的行程是highlight–Tra ang cave. 首先在大雨中穿過了一段熱帶雨林，有些地方有大於六十度的坡度，道路很泥濘;再趟過幾條小溪，因為是雨季，有些地方水流十分湍急;洞裡全程游泳，靠安全帽上的探照燈給光，水溫大概十幾度，水深在五六米，進洞的時候是逆流我基本是被拉進去的。雖然沒有防水相機比較可惜，但是照片真的沒法顯示它的美，最後一張是偷的網上的圖，是旱季時的樣子，更美。
喜歡冒險的朋友們，別錯過這個地方，最好選擇旱季去，可以選擇的洞比較多。
導遊說我們是他見過的來這旅遊的第一個中國家庭
，我也希望這篇遊記能幫到大家。總的來說，這裡很清淨，人很少，對身體素質有一定的要求，適合喜歡獵奇喜歡探險的朋友們。
與farmstay的郵件參考
Please take the time to read the following information before booking with us.
Australian Ben and his wife Le Thi Bich had an epiphany to start a tourism business in the middle of nowhere, and her family and the rest of the community thought that they were mad. “Who would come and stay in the middle of some rice paddies, nobody comes here, we never see any westerners, you’re wasting your money and your time!” Now half of them think that it was their idea. Bich’s family were half right; the area didn’t get any foreign tourists, but Ben and Bich believed that if people knew about it, then the area could prosper. So from housing people in hammocks at their home to personally designing and building the Farmstay, they set out to put Phong Nha on the map. Their goal was to create what they would want if they were on holiday in this then remote and still beautiful region of northern central Vietnam – Comfortable beds, nice views, a swimming pool, full bar, tasty food and top quality tours/activities.
Phong Nha Farmstay is a very unique experience, loved by many and misunderstood by a few. We are a lively, fun and relaxing guest house, an island of modern western comforts in a rural setting. Our extended family do have farmland where they grow rice, peanuts, bananas, sweetcorn, cassava, pepper and more, and much of it is served to our guests, but we are not a working farm. Our guests are a very mixed bunch, which is why we like them so much; we get families, the more mature travellers, young couples, and solo travellers. People from all over the world have stayed with us since we opened in 2010, and many have become great friends as they explored the area and chatted over dinner together afterwards. Our staff are relaxed, young at heart, passionate about Vietnam- it’s people, culture and landscape – and proudly work hard to give you the best stay we can. We are not a cheap budget travel option like you can find in the more touristy parts of Vietnam; we are deep in the rural countryside still untouched by the negative effects of mass tourism, and it can be a bit more difficult and a little more expensive to get here than to more touristy spots. We recommend that you come for a minimum of 3 days to get the best out of your stay and to truly get a feel for the area. Because of this, we now only accept bookings with a minimum of two consecutive nights, and highly recommend you stay for three or more. Please believe us, we have so many people regret not booking for longer, as the area around us is simply outstanding, a unique place in Vietnam that is filled with opportunities to explore and hike; to relax; to try delicious local food; to cycle, swim, zipline and kayak; to capture amazing photographs; to really feel like you are in real Vietnam. All of us here at the Farmstay love this area dearly, it is why we stayed, and many of our guests leave with the same feelings, and with a sadness at having to move on.
We became successful because of the experience and service that we offer, not because of the standard of our linen or the luxuries in our rooms. Our rooms are clean, simple and ideal for sleeping after a fantastic day in the caves, but do not expect cable TV in your room, monogrammed stationary or room service. If you are looking for a lot of creature comforts in your room, lots of privacy, long lie-ins etc, we are probably not the place for you. We are in a small village that we now call Farmstay Village, surrounded by farmland, and on a daily basis water buffalo, dogs, cows, ducks, chickens and farmers all go past our place, normally making some noise or other. If you think this may be an issue, please reconsider visiting us. We are loved by those who want to socialise and explore, not as much by those who expect 5* accommodation and the atmosphere that comes with traditional hotels. Our room prices are not just for the room, but for the whole “Farmstay Experience”, and we believe that if you come here with an open and adventurous mind, you will leave knowing that it was money well spent! If, after reading this, you believe that we will not be your ‘cup of tea’, please feel free to contact us, we will happily recommend other places to stay that will be more to your liking, and we can offer great advice on getting the most out of your stay in the area.
This information package contains the following information:
General Important Information
Information on our rooms, food and getting around
Information on the caves and our tours
Other things to do in the area
Options for getting to Phong Nha, including the cost of transfers.
General Important Information:
Malaria & Dengue: As far as we are aware, this is NOT a malaria area, none of our staff takes anti-malarial tablets (although we do drink a lot of gin & tonic!) Though we haven’t seen any in the Phong Nha area, Dengue Fever is not unknown in Vietnam, so we do recommend bringing and wearing insect repellent.
Paying for your visit: There is a new ATM in Phong Nha Village (8km away from the Farmstay) but it can occasionally be unreliable, especially when there is a power failure. We recommend arriving in Phong Nha with sufficient cash for your stay. We accept Visa & MasterCard (3% surcharge on any transaction), but NOT Maestro or American Express. We also accept Vietnamese Dong (VND), American Dollars( 20,000VND=$1), Australian Dollars and the occasional live music performance! We can also accept payment into our Australian Bank Account if you have an account in Australia.
Passports: We are required by the local police to keep hold of your passports during your stay here. We keep them securely locked in a safe, and ask for your understanding in this matter.
Dress code: This area is still new to tourism, has been one the poorest regions of Vietnam, and the people are quite traditional in their ways and in their thinking. Please dress modestly when cycling or walking around the area. Bring your swimmers though, as we do have a pool!
Giving money: If any local people ask for money, please say NO!
Weather: If you are visiting between October and March, BRING WARM CLOTHES and good rain gear. Every year people arrive on our doorstep with inadequate clothing, unaware that it gets cold in Vietnam. It does get cold here, and between September and November it is traditionally very wet. There is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing!
Phong Nha Farmstay
Rooms
We are usually very busy and we recommend booking well in advance to get the room you want. All rooms are en-suite and have air conditioning and a small fridge.
Double & single rooms have one queen sized bed and can accommodate a maximum of 2 people.
Twin rooms have two large single beds and can accommodate a maximum of 2 people.
Our poolside Family room has a double bed and a double bunk (2 singles in bunk configuration) and can accommodate up to 4 people. There is also a TV and DVD player for watching DVDs.
Large family rooms have a double bed and bunks and can accommodate 5-6 people depending on the room. Ideal for groups or families, there is also a TV and DVD player for watching DVDs.
Our room rates include breakfast, free bicycle hire, water in the room, any extra annoying taxes and charges you often find, a pool (not in the room!), stunning sunsets, an outdoor cinema, live music every second night, and some really helpful friendly staff to talk to. We can supply smiles at our end, but you have to bring your own!
Downstairs and poolside doubles or twins are 910,000 vnd per room per night.
Single downstairs is 750,000VND per room per night (it has a double bed in it that can fit for 2 people but the room is slightly smaller than the other rooms).
Upstairs doubles or twin are 1,170,000 vnd per room per night.
Single upstairs is 910,000VND per room per night (it has a double bed in it that can fit for 2 people but the room is slightly smaller than the other rooms).
Poolside family room is 1,300,000 vnd per night
Larger Family rooms are 1,950,000 vnd per room per night.
Farmstay Village Villa
It is owned by 7 of the local Phong Nha Farmstay staff members. They set it up with a little help from the Farmstay, but it is operated by the 7 staff of the Farmstay that own it. The staff are all part of the team at the Farmstay, and the Farmstay Village Villas incorporates the same type of quality atmosphere that made the Phong Nha Farmstay and the area famous.
When staying at Farmstay Village Villa you are free to use the amenities at Phong Nha Farmstay which is located just 200m away in the Farmstay Village. The facilities include a swimming pool, nightly entertainment (live music and outdoor movie theatre) full restaurant and bar facilities, weights gym equipment, tour and activity options, loads of information about the area, transport to and from the area and much more.
The price includes breakfast, sitting area, bicycle hire, a welcome drink at the Phong Nha Farmstay and bottled drinking water each day. There are three double rooms at Farmstay Village Villas, so you can book a room at the Villa for or you can rent the entire 3 bedroom Villa as a group for 3,000,000vnd per night.
Website: //www.phongnhavillagevillas.com/
Rooms:
A double queen bed room downstairs with en-suite indoor bathroom, air conditioned at 1,000,000vnd/night that can add an extra bed at 200,000VND
A double queen bed room downstairs with en-suite indoor bathroom, air conditioned at 1,000,000vnd/night that can add an extra mattress at 200,000VND
A double queen bed room upstairs with en-suite outdoor bathroom, air conditioned at 1,000,000vnd/night
The Farmstay Village Villa can be booked by emailing us and you will check in at the Farmstay when you arrive.
Victory Road Villas
The Victory Road Villas, which just opened (July 2017), is located in the main street of Phong Nha village, in front of the Song Son river (leading of a small luxurious retreat in Phong Nha) with exceptional facilities and services with standards of five-star hotel.
All of the Victory Road Villas have en-suite bathrooms, are air conditioned and have entertainment systems, high speed Wi-Fi access and king size beds and kitchen.
The Song Son Penthouse offers sweeping views of the Son River and the local village from the balcony and a Jacuzzi. A Kitchen Balcony that overlooks our private garden and swimming pool view allows the guest to appreciate the views in all directions.
The Victory and Family villas are complemented by private large terraces, swimming pool views and direct access to the beer garden, restaurant and barbecue area, allowing you to relax in total privacy and ensuring a perfect setting to settle back and enjoy your stay. Each Villa has a courtyard bath.
Our 7 stylish villas are tastefully designed and decorated with a perfect blend between the Vietnamese lifestyle architecture and Heritage influenced theme, to ensure the most comfortable and enjoyable stay. Each room is outfitted with 01 Double king size Bed and convertible sofa in the living room area (can accommodate one extra person) Also extra bed available on request. All villas are with an open-concept bathroom, including a rainfall shower and a bathtub. Amenities include (but are not limited to) each room had 170 liter mega bar , telephone, flat-screen, satellite LCD TV with international channels, bathrobes, slippers, hairdryers, window and balcony with panoramic view .
Rooms (these rates are valid from 15th July til 30th October 2017):
Victory villas have one king sized bed and can accommodate a maximum of 4 people, available at 1,680,000VND (if extra convertible sofa, add 420,000VND or 750,000VND for extra single bed)
Family villas have one king sized bed, an extra outdoor bathroom and can accommodate a maximum of 4 people, available at 1,930,000VND (if extra convertible sofa, add 420,000VND, or 750,000VND for extra single bed)
3 Bedroom Penthouse Villa has 3 king sized beds and has the option for 3 sofa beds and thus can accommodate a maximum of 9 adults, available at for 11,500,000VND the whole villa regardless of number of people sharing
Rooms (these rates are valid from 1st November 2017 til 31st December 2018):
Victory Villas have one king sized bed and can accommodate a maximum of 3 adults, available at 2,040,000VND based on 2 people sharing (if extra convertible sofa – add 420,000VND or 750,000VND for extra single bed)
Family Villas have one king sized bed, an extra outdoor bathroom and can accommodate a maximum of 3 adults, available at 2,340,000VND based on 2 people sharing (if extra convertible sofa – add 420,000VND or 750,000VND for extra single bed)
3 Bedroom Penthouse Villa has 3 king sized beds and has the option for 3 sofa beds and thus can accommodate a maximum of 9 adults, available at for 11,500,000VND the whole villa regardless of number of people sharing
You can enquire room bookings through us here or directly [email protected]
Website: www.victoryroadvillas.com
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