旅程開始 . 陽光海灘 . 泰美麗
計劃常常趕不上變化,變化也可能是別樣的精彩。
早在2013年末計劃好的泰國行程,隨著生活中各種變化,行程計劃也在一直改變。最終將潛水行程更改為:帶上親愛的媽媽和親愛的媽媽親愛的媽媽一同感受“泰.美麗”。
期待已久,出發!

飛機、小巴、渡輪,終於到達蘇梅島。


途中偶遇泰國美女,不知道是不是純美女,但真的很美

選在最熱鬧查汶海灘落腳,酒店一邊是悠閒寧靜的沙灘,另一邊是商鋪林立喧囂的大街。從園林中的小別墅出來,向左轉,向右轉,兩個不同的世界一分鐘就可以切換。





跋涉了大半天,下午終於可以在酒店小息一會兒,我浮潛領導們睡覺。

中午在酒店餐廳嚐了鮮,服務不錯但還是想到外面找找更好的。酒店斜對面的餐館小夥子非常熱情,還能說幾句中文,於是決定試一試。現在正式開飯!補充體力!
小龍蝦套餐才三百多泰銖,大龍蝦要一千一隻,感覺還是小的划算。兩隻龍蝦兩種口味,加個酸辣魷魚,菠蘿炒飯,三個人都吃不完了。當然,應該也是我們食量太小的緣故。這一頓算起來才兩百多人民幣,味道不錯!





蘇梅風光探險一日遊
上島第二天,參加了蘇梅環島一日遊。第一站:觀音廟,與印象中的截然不同,是完全的泰式風格。勤勞的和尚,慵懶的胖狗狗,還藏了一家略顯現代的咖啡館。









第二站:大佛寺,同樣是泰式廟宇。大佛高高在上,旁下還供奉著許多神佛,四周的雕像似乎都有著一段典故。最大的感受是處處金碧輝煌~


環島遊第三站:參觀動物表演,這也是當天兩位女士看得最開心的節目。會摘椰子的猴哥,愛跳舞的小象,非常可愛。尤其是這頭叫瑪麗的小象,只要音樂響起就開始搖頭晃腦。接著體驗了騎大象,途中買了一袋香蕉作為感謝的禮物,本打算香蕉可以沿途慢慢送~哪知這聰明的傢伙,知道我買了香蕉,開始耍賴了……給兩個,讓它繼續走~不幹!再給,還是不走……沒辦法全給了!怎麼還不走呢……最後,塑料袋也給它~哦~確定已經獲得了全部香蕉,好吧!心情舒暢,出發!女士們遺憾只有我們的大象騎士幫忙拍的只見人不見象的照片,但景區幫忙拍的實在買不下手~700銖兩張……手機拍張別人的留念一下吧!不過也沒影響我們的心情,繼續出發!驚險刺激馬上開始








乘上我們的四驅皮卡,繼續環島行程。接下來開始驚險刺激的叢林探險!風馳電掣地穿越在叢林山路中,清爽的山風,經過大片榴蓮、山竹、椰子林,穿入植被茂盛的熱帶叢林,偶爾還能看到小動物從旁閃過,感覺很棒,尤其是坐在車頂的位置,爽!。可惜一路太顛簸,無法拍照。也要讚賞一下當地的旅遊服務人員,很專業也很敬業,雖然語言溝通略有障礙,但氣氛搞得不錯。同行的幾輛車,時而拉力競逐,時而放緩節奏給後面的車來個小惡作劇,逗得大家十分開心。歡笑中,翻山越嶺已經到達島上最高的山峰。虔誠的國度處處有佛,眺望山下美景,感覺就是受到天神的庇佑,那麼的美麗。中午就在山頂的小餐廳享用了簡單的午餐,是真的很簡單,對吃要求高的朋友肯定會失望~ 餐廳旁邊還有一小片菠蘿園,長勢不錯









用餐完畢稍作休息後,繼續前往下一個景點。這是一個非常神祕的地方,沿著小路走進山谷,潺潺流水兩旁佈滿了非常古老的雕像和低矮建築。在高大茂密的植被遮蔭下,更添一分詭祕的氣氛。景區不大,沒有中文導遊講解也看不懂石刻上的介紹,簡單遊覽一下就回到車上了。一位來自天津的女士也爬上車頂,和我一同體驗VIP觀景座





接下來是個瀑布的景點,忘了叫什麼瀑布。外婆說才那點水,沒什麼看頭~結果兩位自己去路口的攤檔買小吃去了。都到了,瀑布差點,那看看美女吧!然後還去個老虎園,說是虎園,但其實裡面是豹子……沒其他可看的,可以進去和豹子擁抱合影~有點想進去,但母親大人說危險,又太貴~好吧!




走~下一站:祖父祖母石。這是比較有名的景點,就在海邊的石灘上。為什麼起這個名字,看圖意會好了


祖父祖母石是一日遊最後一站了,海景不錯,留影幾張到此一遊

跑了一天,該是休閒時光了。晚飯前先浮潛一下,淺灘沙比較多海水算還行,但魚不多,超多海膽和海蔘。海蔘是隨處可見,在較遠的水域有一些珊瑚礁,那裡好大一群海膽,那場面……壯觀!可惜沒拍到。驚喜的發現,面朝東方的查汶海灘日落時分那麼美!沙灘旁邊的小島,被穿過山脊的陽光映照得分外鮮豔。晚餐去了著名的紅螃蟹餐廳。三個人的食量實在太小,前一天晚餐吃不完,今晚就少點一些。炸蝦球、菠蘿炒飯、咖哩帝王蟹~搞定!菠蘿炒飯不及前一天那家店的美味,但帝王蟹受到外婆讚賞,說比龍蝦好吃……






投入大海的懷抱-濤島、南園島
這次出行原本是打算參加進階潛水員課程的,最後改為更有意義的親情遊。為了彌補我一下,兩位女士非常貼心的放我一天假,參加濤島、南園浮潛一日遊。一早專車從酒店接到碼頭,邊聽行程講解及安全注意事項,邊享用簡單的早餐。Go!上船出海!大約一小半時到達第一個潛點,濤島某個海灣。水很清魚不少,但沒見到什麼珊瑚和海葵。用手機拍了一些視訊,不怎麼好看。這裡只潛了一個小時,前往濤島碼頭吃午餐。一幅幅美好的回憶畫面,浮現於腦海。小作休息後,下一站南園島。



這是個美麗的私人島嶼,我們計劃在這裡停留兩小時,這時間實在是太短了。一上島就遇見一隻睡得超香的喵星人,這姿勢……太舒服了,必須留影。難得到此,當然要登上小山坡俯覽一下著名的人形沙灘。自然也要新朋友合影一個。看~我還是很白的嘛!登山後,抓緊時間下海。也許是下水的地方不對,沒見到傳說中的漂亮珊瑚,人工的痕跡略重,但魚還是比較多。因為時間問題,只潛了一小片區域。






















最後,上沙灘感受下陽光海風。遠遠望著外海的潛水船,幻想著深海的美景,滿滿的幸福。

傍晚回到酒店,趕緊帶兩位女士用晚膳,再散散步。回到酒店,新結識的喵星女友陪著我,在小花園裡聽著海浪聲,靜靜的坐著,回味這美好的一天。


深入體驗蘇梅島
踏上蘇梅以來,每天都是早出晚歸。本打算第四天早點起來看日出,可惜還是與日出無緣。被鬧鐘叫醒後,淅瀝的雨聲取代了昨夜的寧靜。失望……繼續睡。清晨醒來庭園已經恢復寧靜。推開門,感覺空氣也被洗刷過一遍,雨後的花朵也多了幾分晶瑩。撿到一個厚重堅硬的蝸牛殼,應該算是蝸牛界的高檔住宅。走出沙灘,岸邊的小船靜靜的躺在微波中,酒店餐廳的員工開始準備早餐了。沿著海灘散步,看到隔壁酒店的獨木舟,好想拉到海里劃幾圈。可惜我們酒店沒有……遠處還在下雨,烏雲壓得很低,但陽光依然穿過縫隙照亮了天空和海面。沙灘上空已經放晴,飛鳥自由的翱翔在藍天白雲之下。




















沙灘散步後,回酒店匯合媽媽們,準備悠閒環島自駕遊。車子前一晚在酒店前臺預訂好了,有一點點衝動想要一臺越野吉普,但考慮到實際需求,還是訂下普通小轎車,也比較省油環保。車子直接在酒店門口交接,主要是記錄好車身原本有損傷的位置,以及里程油表讀數。出發!今天其實真沒什麼目的地,完全是走到哪看到哪。順著環島的唯一一條主路開,只要是經過村莊,道路兩旁基本上都飯店和馬殺雞店,酒店一般只有招牌立在路口指引方向,超豪華的酒店多數會在比較僻靜的位置。大約開了十幾分鍾,突然被一幅不一樣的畫面吸引。我把這不知道地名的地方稱作:美麗轉角。真的很喜歡這個畫面,但可能太興奮了,沒拍出我想要的效果。不過風景好,隨便拍也還不錯



開過“美麗轉角”,繼續一路穿越椰林與村莊。本就沒什麼目的地,看見一個路標寫著老虎園,隨即沿著路牌指引的方向轉入岔道。在椰林中的小道行駛了幾分鐘,道路的盡頭出現了藍天,前方是一個度假村的入口,盡頭就是度假村的私家海灘了。老虎園就坐落於度假村的左側。一下車就被園內的熱鬧氣氛吸引,但好像不是老虎啊~看了正門的廣告招牌才知道,這裡原來是海洋館&老虎園,同時還是鸚鵡園。在園內喧囂的正是大群的鸚鵡。外面的遊客只有我們,女士們也沒興趣進去參觀,於是就走到海灘逛了一下。這個悠閒的地方,連鳥兒都懶得逃跑,走近隨便拍。簡單留影紀念後繼續行程。



島上的道路雖不寬闊,但沒什麼車,也很乾淨。一路迎著風,慢慢的行駛,印象最深的除了椰林還有沿途掛滿的電線,這景象好像我們的城中村。也不知道開到哪兒了,看見路邊有個市場。老媽好遠就發現水果攤上的袖珍菠蘿蜜,下令停車。好吧!深入體驗當地生活,逛市場。完全不用我參予,兩位女士靠比劃完成了採購:袖珍菠蘿蜜一個,去皮裝好;不同品種的炸香蕉兩袋,配贈調料。上車,趕緊每樣品嚐一下,繼續出發!



離開老虎園後沒走來時的路,隨意轉入某條鄉間小道深入探索。每當感覺深入叢林時,很快又會出現一些村落,還有一些單門獨戶的豪宅和度假村。竟然還有不少土地轉讓出售,價格好像還挺便宜!土豪們,把握機會吧!
似乎驚喜總在轉角。也不知開了多久,回到了環島主路上,經過一個九十度轉角,道路變得寬闊許多,眼前又閃現了一片光明。之前,椰林和鄉村商鋪的景色一直在眼前迴圈,此刻的碧海藍天顯得格外漂亮。徑直開到岸邊,眼前完全開闊了。才發現轉角不遠處,是長長的碼頭。接近中午時分有點晒,找了個樹蔭停下車走一走。大家對碼頭產生一點疑惑,不像我們登島的碼頭,但又不確定(最後在離島前才確認的確不是)。這裡海水很淺,很多小魚。遠處停著一條長尾船,旁邊竟然還站著個人,似乎在往岸邊運些什麼。繼續往前走才發現,原來送來的是新鮮的海產。哇!內心的小吃貨瞬間衝上眉梢,雙眼閃光
!要是預訂的是帶廚房的套間,那就爽呆了~可惜,這次就只能看看了。有的看沒得吃,還是繼續欣賞美景吧!記住這裡:納通碼頭







納通碼頭繼續出發!走了沒多久被一片沙灘吸引,停車觀望發現水好像很不錯哦!其實已經不知道自己所在的方位了,拍下前面的廣告牌應該可以找回這個地方。這是一個漂亮的野沙灘,水清沙白,有機會再上島的話一定到這裡遊幾圈。 因為沒人管理,沙灘上有一些樹枝和落葉。沙灘只有零星幾個遊客,200米開外偷拍氣質辣媽,立馬就被發現了。假裝沒事發生,轉開鏡頭繼續拍風景
。沙灘西側有一排小屋,原本應該是商鋪,但現在已經丟空了。到邊上的一間小屋的觀景臺上休閒了一下,告別這裡繼續下一站。









當天唯一有目的前往的“W酒店”。不需要描述了,足夠高大上的地方……







繞過大半個蘇梅島,早已過了中午,決定回查汶附近午餐,順便逛逛當地的商城。走著走著感覺不對,好像錯過了轉入查汶的路口。再往前一些看看,確定是走錯了,但前面的山坡好像有些熱鬧。好!看看去。原來早上跑太快,錯過了這個觀景臺。正好風和日麗,抓緊時間停車拍照
。錯過的未必不會再來,有沒有收穫在於懂不懂得把握機會,人生也是如此。小作停留就趕回查汶了,到新落成的大型商業中心看看。逛商場實在是提不起興趣,隨便走走吃個簡單的午餐,再想想下一步計劃。





吃飽喝足,決定先回酒店更換一下裝備補給,然後繞到西海岸欣賞日落。優哉遊哉地在椰林海灘穿行,以太陽為參照一直開到西邊的海岸線。走走停停,物色合適的觀景地點。最後在接近西海岸末端的位置,找到了一排海景小餐廳。一線海景而且人不多,好!~就這裡了!找了一家招牌比較醒目的小店,停車進店打招呼“涮我滴卡”,然後坐下。服務員熱情的遞上選單,我剛開啟翻了兩頁,都是E文……有些許頭大。另一個服務員匆匆趕過來,還斥責剛剛那位遞選單的小妹,然後熱情的給我換了另外的選單。我心想,不錯啊~還懂給我們換中文選單。翻開新送來的選單,天啊!不是頭大那麼簡單,除了阿拉伯數字,全都看不懂……我用疑惑且無助的眼神,望著剛跑來的小妹,指了指手裡的選單,說了句:“Sorry!” 頓時大家都笑了。看來,我學幾句泰語,在那邊混問題不大
。最後,因為那間店沒有外婆想要的熱茶,只好另換一家,但這個小插曲還是帶給我們歡樂一刻。轉移到另一家餐廳,問清楚需求後,找好位置,上茶,上椰子,上可樂
。這裡的海邊有些奇特,遠處停著一些小漁船,海里好像還有一個人露出半個身子,突然那個人站了起來,於是有了這張“站在海中的人”。天色漸漸暗下,微微的海風吹著,品著茶點,鷺鳥在退潮的海灘上尋覓晚餐。厚厚的雲層為我們遮了陰,但也擋住了我們期待的夕陽。懷著些許失望的心情,等待著,期待著。時光慢慢的流逝,太陽似乎也很體諒我們的心情,陽光透過雲層的縫隙,映紅了天空和海面,讓我們領略了另一番黃昏美景。











行攝查汶,告別蘇梅
轉眼就第五天了,好好的利用僅剩的半天時間看一看查汶。逛一圈住了幾天的酒店,泰式的小屋,熱帶植物茂盛的庭園,海灘邊的泳池,簡潔方便的接待廳,新裝飾好的門面招牌,這個剛剛開始熟悉的地方,即將就要離開了。


早晚的查汶差別巨大。上午的查汶街道,去除了一切喧囂,變得格外寧靜,走走拍拍正合適。TerminalD是這幾天用餐的主要地點,龍蝦套餐經濟實惠品種多樣,最推薦菠蘿炒飯,每頓必點。密集的便利店和特色佛門麥叔叔也是泰國的特色。感覺這裡和曼谷的考山路有些類似~
這裡聚集了各類酒吧,夜夜笙歌。每當入夜,妖嬈火辣的“美女”在各個酒吧路口熱情的攬客。不喜歡Party的,也可以在路邊的餐吧小酌一杯。夜間熱鬧的氣氛,白天是完全無法體驗到的~
最最著名的馬殺雞當然也要記錄一下,價格不貴服務周到哦!另外隨街可見的還有,紋身店和悠閒幸福的小動物。最主要的交通工具應該是小摩托了,方便出行而且價格便宜,島上游玩的極佳選擇~















































即將離開了,再到海灘上靜靜地感受這個美麗的地方。喵星女友似乎也感受到離別在即,顯露出一絲傷感。



午後到達碼頭,換好船票登船。為受不了空調的外婆找到個船尾的觀景靚位。舒舒服服吹海風看海景~開船了,再見了蘇梅。曼谷,我們又來了!





下一站曼谷,水上市場、鐵路市場
在風雨中顛簸著降落在曼谷,真擔心接下來兩天都將體驗雨中的曼谷。

在酒店美美的一覺到天明,欣喜的發現,陽光又再探出了頭。為了出行方便,這次選住了勝利紀念碑附近。從酒店出發,幾分鐘就可以走到勝利紀念碑。曼谷交通工具齊全,除了巴士,計程車,TUTU車,水上巴士,地鐵,還有方便的天鐵(應該算輕軌)。走在環形天橋上,看著地面上奔忙的多彩小車,天軌蜿蜒著伸向遠方,偶有列車從頭頂上經過。勝利紀念碑廣場視野非常寬闊,藍天白雲下,被晨光染成金色的紀念碑,更顯得威嚴壯麗。






被網上攻略誤導,結果繞了幾圈也沒找到準備搭乘的南線巴士。最後,在參觀完著名的“泰”堵後,決定坐計程車去南線客運站總站。泰國的計程車亂收費也比較嚴重,最後遇到一位熱心的TUTU車司機幫忙找了輛靠譜的計程車。順利到達南線車站,乘上了前往丹嫩沙水上市場的長途汽車。

常常在歐美電影中認識的泰國,最印象深刻的就是熱鬧的水上市場。不過真還有點遠,稍微砍了點價,整個行程接近兩小時。抓緊時間馬上出發!



不寬的河道上,運載著各類產品的小船穿梭其中。新鮮的水果,各類特色小吃,滿滿的泰國味道。一直想要品嚐的芒果糯米飯,也在這裡得償所願。
美麗的遊客,美麗的店家,美味的小吃,精美的工藝品,這美麗的地方給了我們美好的回憶。不過採購的話,記得大刀砍價哦!























離開水上市場,乘車來到附近的一個小鎮。街道兩旁繁華的小商鋪,馬路上熙熙攘攘的車和人,看著也並沒什麼特別。走進一個熱鬧的市場,各樣的海鮮乾貨,肉菜瓜果,品種豐富多樣。市場的道路很窄,大約僅僅夠兩人並肩同行吧。而且這條道路有些奇怪,既不是古舊的石板路,也不是新修的水泥泊油路。走著走著,響起了一陣響亮的警報聲。突然間,兩邊原本在聊天叫賣的商販們紛紛起身,嫻熟迅速地調整自己的攤位。眨眼間,陰暗狹窄的道路,變得開闊明亮了許多。這時,隨著陣陣轟鳴聲,從不遠處的彎道開來了一列火車。原來市場的道路就是鐵軌,火車直接開進了市場緊貼著我們飛馳而過,穿行在瓜果肉菜之間。這就是當地特色之一“火車市場”了。市場的另一邊就是小型的火車站,在車站裡看到了剛才開過的火車。小小的車站雖然有些老舊,但非常整潔,特色的小火車,遠處衝出圍牆綻放的鮮花,美好的畫面印在了心裡。










架好裝備準備拍火車在眼前掠過的視訊,興奮!興奮!興奮過度…火車過了發現沒按上拍攝…白忙活一場,下一班車要等幾個小時。唉~算了,去老媽的手機偷兩張圖紀念











意外的體驗-湄南河風光
回到曼谷已近黃昏,抓緊時間進發鄭王廟。到曼谷怎能不體驗下著名的TUTU車,幸運的遇到一輛粉紅漂亮的TUTU。TUTU車其實就是一種營運的三輪摩托,在擁擠的城市街道中一直髮揮著它特有的優勢作用。每一輛TUTU車都經過車主的精心打扮,各種顏色圖案,小裝飾也體現了車主的性格和內心的憧憬。乘著我們漂亮的TUTU車穿街過巷,遇到了粉紅的計程車姐姐,看到有條“短路”
(按我的譯法
),一路上TUTU車司機還為我們介紹了不少沿途景觀,最後到達了大皇宮外圍的廣場。剛下車,路邊的大樹下來一隻可愛的松鼠。嘿!是來接我們的嗎?哈~想多了……它從一位老伯手裡,拿了一個糖果還是什麼好吃的,就滿足的回到了樹上。夕陽穿過樹冠,輝映在皇宮外圍的馬路上,下班的白領,路邊的攤販,放學的學生,感覺熱鬧又特別的和諧。













穿過皇宮旁邊的巷道就到了江邊的碼頭。竟然遇到拉客的,被拒絕後還罵罵咧咧的,直接無視她。諮詢了碼頭的工作人員後,終於找對了上船位置。鄭王廟就在斜對岸不遠處了,稍等了一會兒船就來了,略帶興奮的上了船,開始欣賞兩岸風光。幾分鐘後就到達下一個碼頭,心想著傳說中超陡的階梯,期待著快點到站!於是,靜靜的參觀著上船下船的乘客,繼續開船繼續觀光。一站又一站,感覺好像不對啊……這才恍然大悟,沒理解對工作人員的指引~應該是在第一站下船,然後轉渡輪到對岸。結果……鄭王廟之旅改成了湄南河觀光遊。錯就錯了吧!上天指引的方向,高高興興的體驗就對了。迎著江風欣賞兩岸泰式的廟宇,民居,酒店,竟然還有順興宮清水祖師,最後到達終點站摩天輪附近。天色已晚,對這個地方也不熟悉,那就再上船返回吧!結果只花了30泰銖,就欣賞了湄南河的日景夜景,太超值了!















最後一站-金碧輝煌的大皇宮
即將離開才發現,酒店旁邊這個圓滾滾的傢伙,就是曼谷最大的皇權免稅商店。不過也沒有購物的意向,還是趕緊奔往大皇宮,繼續觀光。


走進大皇宮,馬上就被他的精緻華麗吸引。但是,一大早就已經聚集了大批各國團友……最強大的,當然還是我天朝子民。各種喧譁不守規矩,就不說了~還看到好幾隊泰國學生,猜測是過來上歷史或者愛國主義教育的吧。速度趕在更多遊客湧來前,買票入宮。























































































恰巧碰上阿兵哥換崗,旁邊幾位大媽樂壞了~感覺她們差點都想直接參予了







金碧輝煌過後,在宮殿的一角展示著一些古炮,記錄著抗擊外敵入侵的歷史。一位老外正巧入鏡,這是…抗擊入侵者?開炮打他嗎
?





參觀了三個多小時,又是離開的時候了。在皇宮對面的小吃店簡單解決了午餐,離別前不捨的再次看看曼谷。多彩的TUTU車,小摩托,友善的泰國人民,留在照片中印在心中。



本文章將原文轉貼為繁體中文方便閱讀