由於歷史原因,整個家族都比較喜歡臺灣,一直沒有擺上行程,可能真的是離大陸太近了。去年突然心血來潮,終於決定帶上父親,約上表哥,來一次寶島之旅。
也許當時正好遇到大選時期,大陸政府突然決定自8.1號起暫停發放臺灣G 籤,在7.31號中午看到新聞後,於當日下午趕緊申請了G 籤,以至於日後能順利出發臺灣之行!
出發之前,粗略看了下很多朋友的遊記提到日月潭和阿里山都是名氣大,糾結許久,最終還是決定去,畢竟從小對臺灣最早的認識,正是日月潭和阿里山,事實證明,絕無遺憾,非常美。
D 1 初到臺北
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初到臺北
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每次在外地看到重慶兩個字 都比較興奮
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酒店前臺熱心的大叔,非常詳細的推薦了夜市幾個在地人比較喜歡去的店鋪,地圖畫的很到位,很容易找到。
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臺北的計程車起步後,等時跳得比較快,從我叫停車,到結賬,跳了差不多十塊。一公里多路,95臺幣,差不多人民幣20多。
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每次去到外地,最喜歡去的地方就是市集,臺灣以小吃文明,到臺北自然不會錯過,選了個離酒店也就是西門町附近的寧夏夜市
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釋迦果真的太好吃了,但是臺北是最貴的。這裡賣的150一個,後來在產地臺東買的300一箱六個,個頭都很大的。
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蚵仔煎是臺灣著名小吃,但是本人吃不太習慣,太糊糊了。
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D2 瑞芳、貓村、九份鐵路沿線一日遊
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西門町門口的對面,可以坐965直達瑞芳和九份,90臺幣,大概坐一個小時。我是坐到瑞芳火車站,換乘小火車,沿線遊玩的猴硐、十分、菁茼和平西。基本上每個站都是差不多一個小時一趟車,每個地方玩一個小時也正好差不多了。
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每個站下車的時候,注意下下班火車的到站時間就可以了,不然錯過一趟車,需要等一個鐘左右。
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猴硐並沒有猴子,實際上是很多貓的一個小地方,喜歡貓貓的,可以停留
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十分,主要是放天燈,價格從150-500的都有,我們不是太信這些,選擇的看別人放,感受下氣氛即可。
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菁茼是日據時期一個日本人修建的煤礦站。菁茼和平溪好像因為那些年在這裡取景,被很多遊客熟知,屬於比較文藝小清新的感覺。
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菁茼的礦工飯,事實證明是全臺灣最划算的,很大一塊豬排,還有滷肉,滷蛋,才100新臺幣,味道非常正,而且價格比大陸都便宜。
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那些年的金童玉女
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全臺灣第一個郵筒
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九份老街,屬於遊客打卡的地方之一,也是號稱臺灣的山城。不過來過之後,個人覺得沒有太大的意義,畢竟重慶才是真正的山城,基本上和大陸的古鎮老街一個樣,商業氣氛過於嚴重。
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在西門町回酒店的路上,偶然撞進一條小巷,基本上是大陸各地的小吃,只是9點多已經差不多關完了。
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今晚以一個地道滷肉飯結束一天的行程。其實它並不叫滷肉飯,只是我個人統稱滷肉飯,口味都差不多。不過價格比大陸實惠多了。這一碗人民幣不到25.
D3 臺北市區、淡水、新北投泡湯
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總統府在九點左右,接受免預約免費餐館。而且按照差不多七八個人左右標準,配備一個義務工作人員講解,整個參觀行程差不多一個多小時。
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民主
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自由
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總統府出來步行十分鐘左右,就是中正紀念堂。
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中正紀念堂遊玩之後,直接達捷運去淡水,本想觀看號稱全臺灣最美的日落,可惜在臺灣的整個行程,幾乎都在下雨,看不到日落,感受下淡水漁港氣息,品嚐淡水特色美食還是相當不錯的。
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淡水車站出來 左邊看到一個老火車 旁邊那條路就是淡水老街
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不知道是不是網紅 反正很多人吃 地方忒小。牛肉湯包很好吃,好像70臺幣。
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湯包的正對面就是一個賣蝦卷的,非常新鮮,蝦仁很大,味道很棒。本來是在找很多遊記提到的淡水名小吃“阿給”,結果蝦卷老闆才告訴我真正在地人才吃,並且真正老字號的並不是很多遊記提到的老街上的,而是步行差不多十分鐘的地方,對於我這種超級喜歡人文美食的人來說,豈能錯過。
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看到這棟比較有特色的建築,坡上就是當地老字號阿給
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以我專業的吃貨經驗,這個店頭一看就不是網紅打卡店。
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果然好吃不貴。
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這個站牌像極了轉經筒。就在阿給老店下面坐公交,十多分鐘就到了漁人碼頭。
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淡水漁人碼頭的標誌性建築,情人橋。
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當年陳水扁為此橋題字。
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淡水坐不了多久,就來到了臺北周邊的著名溫泉鄉~北投。
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北投的臺北國立圖書館,順便進去休息一下,翻了翻書刊。
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北投和新北投都是非常典型的日式街道,到處都是溫泉經營場所。彷彿走在日本的有馬溫泉之鄉的路上。
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提前在網上預定的夜湯成人票,晚上七點之後入場,人民幣75,個人覺得非常實惠。池子不算太多,但是基本上都能體驗到。
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D4 忠烈祠、故宮市內遊
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上面這三張圖片,被我很多到過臺北的朋友說彷彿拍出了不是臺北的感覺。確實是,這麼巨大的羅馬柱,在臺北實在少見。
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網上查好忠烈祠開門時刻,坐的公交車到大門口下。專門過來看換崗儀式。
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忠烈祠日據時期為護國神社,後被蔣中正改為奉祀抗日烈士。那天參觀忠烈祠的遊客,百分之九十都是講日語的,也算有點諷刺。
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臺北故宮,應該是來臺灣必到場地之一。
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臺北華山1914文創園
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晚上提了提前在租租車上租的日產驪威,含保險400左右一天。實在話,臺灣對於大陸人租車非常不便,所以能租到已經很不錯了,價格都比歐洲租車貴很多。
平時:很多人說臺北晚上八點之後到第二天早上七點,可以免費停在劃黃線路段。但是有人說有時候黃線也被拖車,為了穩當起見,建議還是停格子,晚上也是免費。
D5 日月潭
從臺北出發,我選擇的是逆時針環島遊,所以第一目的地就是位於南投的日月潭,開車大概三個多小時。臺灣的高速路都是etc自動收費,無需人工停留。
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我們選擇住在水社碼頭附近,在酒店換的便宜優惠套票,含輪渡和纜車是350新臺幣。登船時在手上蓋個章,全天無限制上下船。我們的遊玩路線是先玩伊達邵碼頭,然後坐纜車,繼續到玄光碼頭遊覽玄光寺,最後再回水社的時候,正好可以欣賞日落。
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全臺灣印象最深刻的,個人覺得最好吃的就是伊達邵碼頭的這家古早味x包,可惜後來在其他地方,再也沒有吃到如此好吃的小吃了。和鍋盔做法差不多,只是個人非常喜歡裡面料理的味道
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三個人,每人一個鍋盔,一碗雞絲滷肉飯,外加幾個很好吃的小吃,也才人民幣不到100,這個價格,在大陸,怕每人只能來一桶。
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九族纜車俯瞰日月潭,整個行使時間大概40分鐘,非常值得乘坐。
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從玄光寺俯瞰日月潭
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日月潭的日落很美很美。
朝霧、阿里山
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早上五點過點,就從酒店步行七八分鐘到朝霧碼頭看日月潭日出。很多攝影師已經準備在那裡了。雖然那天並沒有等到日出,但是朝霧已經美得令人窒息了。
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只有看過日月潭的朝霧,才有資格評論日月潭。事實上確實很多說日月潭一般般的遊記作者,多數是跟團當天離開的遊客。事實證明,清晨的日月潭,美極了。
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專門駐車拍了這張照片,印象中很多電影都出現過這種場景,裡面坐著一個檳榔妹。
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被國家地理雜誌評為全球最美自行車道之一的日月潭向山段。
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結束向山的遊玩之後,便順路向阿里山出發了。整體來說,日月潭是非常值得前來遊玩的,絕不是很多跟團一日遊那些人說的一般般。
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日月潭前往嘉義阿里山路途中,偶然在一個服務區上廁所,正好遇到一個葡萄之鄉。這個葡萄很像巨峰葡萄,但是很大,而且比巨峰甜很多,幾乎是純甜。買了一箱,好像六斤,300新臺幣,人民幣70左右,是我吃過最好吃的葡萄。
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遠遠的 已經看到美如水的阿里山了。
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阿里山應該是常年都是旺季,12月初本身該是淡季,遊客卻非常之多,提前訂的酒店也在臺灣地區是偏貴的,而且景區內的非常不好訂。前一天日月潭氣溫接近30度,阿里山的氣溫卻只有不到五度,晚上估計只有一兩度,非常冷,到阿里山的朋友一定要記得多穿衣服。
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臺灣最常見的扣肉滷肉飯,臺灣名氣再大的景點,消費水平都和正常價位差不多,不會像大陸地區亂漲價。
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來阿里山,主要就是看祝山日出,體驗森林小火車。
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D6 祝山雲頂、出發高雄
早上四點多就起來,坐祝山線去看日出,結果很遺憾,並沒有看到。據說看日出,非常講運氣的。
祝山線火車票,單程150,下山我們選擇的步行,差不多一個小時左右回到山下。既省錢,又領略了阿里山風光,也做了一個晨間鍛鍊。
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非常漂亮的阿里山郵局
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前期在網上預約了墾丁龍坑的景區票 由於不接受網路支付 專程到郵局匯款。
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奮起湖並沒有湖
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阿里山經奮起湖,加上逛奮起湖的時間,不多四個多小時於傍晚抵達高雄。
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本來是想去高雄最著名的瑞豐夜市,結果正好遇到星期一休市,來的六合夜市。事實證明,應該都差不多的
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買菸的時候打聽的一家吃粥的檔口,小吃很好吃,吃的飽飽的,三個人也就人民幣120左右,價效比還是挺高。
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D7 西子灣、旗津島、夜抵墾丁
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早上偶然撞見一個阿姨手工現包的糯米糰,很好吃,分量超多,一個糯米糰加杯牛奶,50臺北,和大陸差不多水平,但是料要充足很多。
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85大廈俯瞰高雄
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位於西子灣的中山大學
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把車停在大學裡,步行十分鐘左右到碼頭,坐輪渡上旗津島。
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租的雙排最多四人坐電動單車,兩小時450新臺幣 ,騎行漫遊旗津半島。
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很大一塊猶豫,人民幣不到15,感覺還是比大陸的物價低些。
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旗津島上的海鮮並不算便宜。價格看起不太貴,但是很多是按兩或者條的價格賣。海鮮,還是在後面的成功港才真正便宜。
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游完旗津半島,驅車駛向墾丁。
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快到墾丁前半個小時左右,途徑恆春古城,可以吃個晚飯,簡單逛下。古城本身不大,主要就是海角七號和幾個成門。
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不到人民幣20
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D8 墾丁環島遊
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清早的墾丁大街 非常冷清
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龍鑾潭自然生態園 可以免費用望遠鏡看到一些野生鳥類。
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臺電展示館 免費參觀
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很大一個鳳梨 50新臺幣
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龍坑的風力 可以達到十級以上 人都會吹跑那種 去的話 任何時候一定要穿雨衣 全臺灣恆春這邊的落山風最為猛烈
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由於大陸取消了g簽註 限制了自由行 往日熙熙攘攘的墾丁大街變得死氣沉沉。
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這個老闆就是九十年代到重慶開寶島餐廳的臺商。高雄人,據他說,當年只用了兩年時間虧了800萬臺幣,後來到墾丁擺夜市,用了8年時間全部賺回來了。
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D10 縱谷線、池上、臺東
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最便宜的滷肉飯 人民幣不到15
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臺東是釋迦果的產地 興奮的買了一箱 本來想多買幾箱回國的 但是據說過不了海關。好像六個還是七個一箱 才300 在臺北的夜市 一個就要150。
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臺灣小餐館的自助餐 並不是全部免費吃 是挑多少菜 單獨計算每個菜品的價格。不過都很便宜的,選了很多菜,也就人民幣不到20
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臺9線 俗稱縱谷線 個人覺得沒有想象中漂亮 可能是因為重慶人 川渝地區本身就很多山景的原因
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這是酒店前臺推薦的 很地道的老店 事實證明 食客基本上都是在地人 罕見遊客。價格不貴 很好吃。
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物價真的很良心 每人一個粉 還點了幾個滷水拼盤 人民幣才60幾。
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住的這個客棧非常喜歡,很多免費書看。臺東是整個臺灣印象比較深刻的地方。地方很小 但是臺味很重,很喜歡。
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D12 海線,花蓮
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今日行程就是走臺11線 一直沿著太平洋去到花蓮,相比縱谷線 個人更推薦走海線,領略太平洋野性的一面。
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這個應該算是網紅包子 不過路過可以嘗下 味道還是很不錯的。
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典型的網紅餐廳名氣是很大 不過在地人現在都不去了 還要排隊
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我一向主觀就比較排斥網紅餐廳 看了下選單決定放棄。
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臺東客棧兩個前臺小姐姐極力推薦到成功漁港吃海鮮,他們自己也經常過來吃,據說很便宜。終於找到她們所說的漁港吃海鮮的意思了。
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這才是在地人選擇的地方嘛 全部是隔壁漁港新鮮打撈的 非常新鮮 點了幾個沒聽過的魚 吃飽喝足才人民幣200多 著實便宜
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隔壁的漁港 都在忙碌剛剛打撈的海產品交易
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北迴歸線
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感受過狂野大西洋 第一次親臨太平洋 還是很興奮
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晚上一到花蓮 又是狂風暴雨 夜市的人寥寥無幾 於是決定第二天再來
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又是一個無心插柳柳成蔭的食鋪 只是看到貌似很多本地人吃的樣子 果斷進去 光看牆上這些照片 就知道有些故事 果然味道沒有讓我們失望
D 11 花蓮一日遊
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早餐是酒店送的公正包子用餐券 生意太好了 味道很不錯 價格和大陸差不多
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正好遇到當天有馬拉松比賽
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入住的這家客棧 老闆湯阿姨 非常熱情友善 幫我們衝咖啡
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星巴克集裝箱文藝園 ,也算花蓮一個文創中心
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東大門經常都會有表演
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很好吃 主要是馬英九也說好吃
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夜市裡名氣最大的烤肉 等了可能半個小時 確實吃不來 太甜了 而且我在中國人中算是喜歡吃甜食的人了
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D13 宜蘭礁溪
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之前一直聽說宜蘭蘇澳港也是吃海鮮且便宜的地方。路上憑感覺隨便停車的一家 居然也是一個本地人的網紅餐廳 基本上都是預定餐
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很美味的紅魚
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agoda遇到搞活動預定的,城景套房,60幾個平方,價效比超高。
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D14 宜蘭周邊遊
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宜蘭的羅東夜市 也是非常有名 所以專門驅車過來感受一下
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D15 千島湖,返渝
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臺灣千島湖
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途中偶然吃到的鴨肉香腸飯 非常好吃
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本文章將原文轉貼為繁體中文方便閱讀