泰國,是很多國人出國的第一站,這裡擁有異域風情和熱帶風光,飽含歷史氣息和文化底蘊。從金碧輝煌、閃閃發亮的廟宇到熱帶的海灘,到滿臉笑容的泰國人,處處煥發出耀眼的容光。更不提這兒還擁有特殊的美味佳餚:芒果糯米飯、冬陰功湯以及菠蘿炒飯,怎麼吃都不會膩。
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📅DAY1(9.19): 上海——昆明
✈上海虹橋(13:35)——昆明長水(18:10)
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在貴州畢節中轉,雲貴的高原好天氣出來了
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4.5個小時的飛行終於到了春城昆明。
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彩虹色
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過橋米線吃的就是一個排場,按排場大小分為秀才、舉人、進士、狀元。雖然蒙自的味道更正宗,特有的菊花米線更是唯有此地有,堪稱一絕,但是直接送上成品也就少了那份自己操作特有的樂趣。如此,老滇的過橋米線真是又好吃又好玩。
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這是古滇國的特色麼
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📅DAY2-4(9.20-9.22): 昆明(見下篇)
//www.mafengwo.cn/i/12275878.html
📅DAY4(9.22): 昆明——曼谷
✈昆明長水(16:25)—曼谷素萬那普(17:40)
話說好多特價機票,這個時間段比較好,RMB 100,最便宜的有10元的,當然稅費要RMB 430。
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人生的第一次出國自由行給了泰國
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範爺國內因為偷稅,基本上海報廣告都看不到了,這兒看來沒有波及
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過天橋時,感覺空氣很汙濁,或許跟小摩托車有關,國內現在都普遍使用電動摩托車,對環境友好了不少。
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💡寶藏:曼谷地鐵線路圖🗺
曼谷的軌道交通不同線路是分開運營:現有2條輕軌(Bangkok Mass Transit System,簡稱BTS)+1條地鐵Mass Rapit Transit Authority of Thailand,簡稱MRT)+3條機場鐵路線(Airport Rail Link,簡稱ARL)。
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哈哈,機器沒搗騰明白,單程的票還得一張張買,顯示屏上沒有選張數的操作
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我們住在華南蓬火車站附近,區位優勢在於,
1.從素萬那普機場乘坐地鐵輕軌可到達。
2. 這是距離老曼谷景區最近的地鐵口。
2.去阿瑜陀耶/大城從這兒直接坐火車。
3. 廊曼機場和廊曼火車站是互通的,所以可以從這兒坐火車。
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#華南蓬中央車站(Hua Lamphong)🚉
泰國最大的火車站
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#唐人街夜景
明清以來的下南洋潮主要以廣東、潮州、福建、客家以及海南為主,所以涉及中華元素的美食,廟宇更接近港臺,廣東和福建。
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📅DAY5(9.23): 曼谷(Bangkok)
今天是全程徒步,從華南蓬火車站出發,穿越整個老曼谷,遊遍金佛寺,臥佛寺,鄭王廟,大皇宮,國家博物館。不得不說,十一前來泰國,簡直是過來蒸桑拿
。
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#唐人街 & 金佛寺
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中通快遞,沒看到順豐
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現任國王拉瑪十世的畫像,相比前幾年去世的老國王拉瑪九世的博學多才,這個國王更痞和氓一點。國王在泰國享有非常崇高的地位,圖書館裡還專門有王室文學,泰國國王不容褻瀆,神聖不可侵犯,差不多國內我黨。
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#臥佛寺
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下面兩個門神,是不是很“China”
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泰國全境的寺廟除非常少數,大部分都是可以拍照的,寺廟內的坐姿要注意,不要把腳對向佛像。
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看左下角,歡快的白皮豬🐖
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#大皇宮 & 玉佛寺
又稱大王宮,是泰國(暹羅)王室的皇宮,緊鄰湄南河,仿照故都大城(阿瑜陀耶)的舊皇宮建造的,曼谷王朝從拉瑪一世到拉瑪八世,均居於大皇宮內。
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這簡直就是街霸最終Fighting大Boss的地點
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覺得大皇宮和鄭王廟的夜叉很有特色
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濃縮版吳哥窟
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玉佛寺外圍還可以拍拍照,裡面就不允許了。
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#泰國國家博物館
就在大皇宮出口不遠處,比起遊客扎堆的鄭王廟,臥佛寺,大皇宮……,此處倒是一片清幽之地,之前沒有料到如此之大,一個小時根本逛不完
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#鄭王廟(Wat Arun)
鄭王廟,又稱為黎明寺(Temple of the Dawn),是紀念泰國第41代君王、民族英雄鄭昭的寺廟。黎明寺位於泰國湄南河西岸的雙子都市吞武裡城,與鄭昭有關,他曾率軍驅逐緬甸並建立了吞武裡王朝。
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湄南河上看鄭王廟,別有一番味道
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本打算回程打的或突突車,可司機都太黑,漫天要價,於是徒步原路返回。
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馬里奧已經成大叔了
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咱國產手機廣告在泰國的地鐵站裡投放挺全的,VIVO,華為,小米
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看到阿日學長了,沒看到鋼炮
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📅DAY6(9.24): 阿瑜陀耶/大城(Ayutthaya)
要了解泰國歷史上曾經最強盛的王朝,就得去曼谷以北的阿瑜陀耶,我們選擇在在華南蓬中央車站搭火車前往,一個半小時就能到。
🚂111:Bangkok(07:00)—Ayutthaya(08:37)
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#大城站🚉
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泰國的候車室都在站臺上
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由於大城回曼谷的火車經常晚點很久,甚至會臨時取消,為保險起見,所以我們選擇Mini Van(空調麵包車)回,60泰銖一位,直接送到曼谷的Mo Chit地鐵站,最後一趟是19:00。時間無法安排所有的寺廟,只能側重選擇最想要去的寺廟
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#崖差蒙空寺(Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon)
第一站選擇的距離火車站不遠的下面這個寺廟,也是《泰囧》裡王寶強一個一個跪佛的寺廟。
烏通國王於1357年建造了這座寺院,用來接納從斯里蘭卡受任歸來的僧侶。1592年,納藜萱國王在取得了對緬甸戰爭的勝利後又建造了令人不可思議的鐘狀佛塔。園林花園使這裡成為大城最好的拍照遺
址之一。入口附近有一座身長7米的臥佛,當地人相信,如果你能夠將一枚硬幣貼在佛像的腳上,那麼好運會一路伴隨著你。——LP
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突突車太不划算(其實還是懶,見識到印度的突突車司機,其實泰國的也還好),而且時間不自由,所以在瑪哈泰寺租了輛自行車,40泰銖一天,和國內靠右行駛不同,這兒是靠左行駛。
#瑪哈泰寺(Wat Mahathat)
樹報佛頭,大城上鏡率最高的景
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看到一個很漂亮的妹子
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#拉差布拉那寺(Wat ratchaburana)
這座寺廟最著名的就是它建於公元1424年的高棉佛塔,這是大城王朝第八代國王波隆摩羅闍二世為了紀念在王位鬥爭中喪生的兩位兄弟所修建的寺廟。初期為泰式佛塔,夠來增建成高棉式大佛塔。
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#西善佩寺(Wat Phra Si Sanphet)
西善佩寺三座壯觀的舍利塔是大城的標誌性景觀之一。西善佩寺建於15世紀末期,曾經是宮殿庭院中的皇家寺廟,曼谷的玉佛寺和皇家宮殿就是仿造它而建的。它曾是大城最大的寺廟,供奉著一尊16米
高的立佛像( Phrasisanphet),表面鍍了13公斤(有資料記載更多)的黃金,後來被緬甸佔領者熔掉了。——LP
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泰國的清真寺
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#普考同寺(Wat Phu Khao Thong)
這座巨大的白色佛塔初建於緬甸人在泰國的15年佔領期,頂層部分是後來由泰國人增建的,你可以登上79級臺階到達佛塔的正中央觀賞周圍的稻田。前面極具傳奇色彩的雕塑是為了紀念所向披靡的納黎萱國王。——LP
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我果然是太實誠了,本著進寺脫鞋,乾乾淨淨地腳走地是黢媽黑
,後面看到當地人上去都沒脫鞋。
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此處可以遠觀看到納黎萱大帝的騎馬雕像,其抗緬維持住暹羅的獨立,並佔領柬埔寨,讓其成為暹羅五大帝之一。
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#柴瓦塔娜蘭寺(WAT CHAI WATTANARAM)
這座寺廟是島外最令人難忘的地點,擁有高達35米的高棉風格的中央佛塔,並且儲存完好。佛塔始建於1630年(歷時20年左右),是國王 Prasat Thong為了紀念他的母親而建造的。它的設計特別仿照了柬埔寨的吳哥窟(Angkor Wat)——LP
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田氏宗祠,在泰的華人文化已經融入到泰國文化中了
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🚌: Ayutthaya——Bangkok
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泰國如曼谷、普吉以及清邁的購物商場的美食城都能喝到這種冬陰功湯
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粉紅凍奶,草莓味兒牛奶,太甜了
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海南雞飯,依然不好吃
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📅DAY7(9.25):曼谷——清邁
華南蓬火車站坐火車前往廊曼機場,泰國火車沿線的候車室都在站臺上
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瞧,下火車後直接穿過鐵軌,左上邊的天橋即是去往飛機候車室的通道。
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✈曼谷廊曼(10:35)—清邁(12:00)
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發覺清邁的商業化已經非常嚴重,我跟小夥伴調侃到泰國版“麗江”,國內八大菜系在這兒都有,服務員都會一般的普通話,付款微信以及支付寶跟國內沒區別。
本次旅行泰餐標配:
芒果糯米飯
菠蘿飯
冬陰功湯
好吃
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我發覺太正宗的冬陰功咱國人應該都招架不住
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塔佩門前在拍歷史劇
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📅DAY8(9.26): 清邁(Chiang Mai)
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清邁大學選擇了就在門口看看,攻略上不太推薦進校,或許不願意遊客影響到學校的正常教學,因為很多年輕姑娘會去教室拍照📸之類,泰劇看多了,也想代入。清邁大學現在無法自由行,只能花錢,乘坐學校指定的觀光車,車上觀看,最後停在一個人工湖邊,停留20分鐘。
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#雙龍寺(Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep)
雙龍寺又稱素貼寺,因有兩條長龍在兩側臺階坐臥而得名
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俯瞰清邁城
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找亮點
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#寧曼路(Nimmanhemin)
位於古城和清邁大學之間,是清邁的時尚文藝聚集地,也是年輕人最喜愛的地方。
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強烈推薦這個泰北咖哩面,好吃
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中華小吃應有盡有,不過還沒看到西藏的糌粑以及新疆的烤饢和肉串
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Mobike摩拜單車🚲已經進軍清邁了,收費略微比國內高
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#帕辛寺
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看泰劇的盆友應該對這個不會陌生,植入廣告必有它
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#契迪龍寺(Wat Chedi Luang)
又稱大佛塔寺,始建於1411年,是清邁市內六大寺廟中最大的寺廟,與帕辛寺同為清邁等級最高的寺廟,寺廟屬於典型蘭納(古泰族王朝)風格建築。曾經清邁最高的建築物,如今只能看到其殘破的遺蹟,但仍是契迪龍寺獨一無二的標誌。
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這個寺廟只允許男性進入,女性不得入內,諾,這是它的官方解釋。
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契迪龍寺讓人印象最深刻的就是周圍的像蛇一樣的雕塑以及寺上的大象🐘了,很壯觀
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#清曼寺(Wat Chiang Man)
清曼寺最漂亮的建築,是庭院內一座金頂佛塔。佛塔的底部有15尊大象的雕塑,被視為“由15頭大象承托起佛塔”。
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📅DAY9(9.27): 清萊(Chiang Rai)
清邁有一條往北至金三角邊境的一日遊跟團線,我們也在酒店的旅遊中心報名了,比淘寶等平臺實惠多了,而且提前一天訂就可以了。
#白廟(Wat Rong Khun)
靈光寺又名隆坤寺
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這個白廟遠觀很美,但近看卻是玻璃
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目前見過最厲害的廁所除了滿洲里的套娃廣場那個,就是這個了,完全看不出。
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老國王拉瑪九世
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#黑廟(Baan Dum)
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#金三角(Golden Triangle)
金三角是位於東南亞泰國、緬甸和寮國三國邊境地區的一個三角形地帶,因地處山區,地貌獨特,林木茂盛,景色優美,又因緬老兩國閉關鎖國,更增添了此地的神祕色彩。金三角地區曾因盛產鴉片而聞名於世,全球80%的鴉片來自於此
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瀾滄江在這兒已經很寬闊了
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“金三角經濟特區歡迎你”
有一種時空的交錯感,我以為誤入國內某經濟開發區
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#寮國木棉島
付了500泰銖(100人民幣)小費登上了中國人承租的寮國經濟特區“木棉島”
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寮國的啤酒🍺,天下的啤酒都一個味兒,難喝
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📅DAY10(9.28): 清邁——昆明
#清邁火車站🚉
清邁火車站算是泰國最文藝的火車站了
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✈清邁(11:00)——昆明長水(13:45)
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📅DAY11(9.29-10.8): 滇越鐵路(見下篇)
昆明·建水·蒙自·河口·老街·河內·南寧·貴陽//www.mafengwo.cn/i/12275878.html
💡TIPS
11. 我倆的護照都不是上海領區簽發,所以某寶上只能勾選“全國領區護照受理”,RMB 379/Per, 多掏150多。
2. 如果是旅遊籤,則要求攜帶現金或等值外幣 20,000泰銖(每人),40,000泰銖(每戶)約合RMB 4,000,以防萬一,我和小夥伴在長水機場的Travelex換的泰銖,手續費是真……
,而且那時腦抽,兩人一起就只需要給一次手續費,我倆分開換的
。
3.泰國的寺廟入室都需要拖鞋,坐時切不可把腳對向佛祖,室內一般都可以拍照,本次室內禁止拍照的地方只有大皇宮裡的玉佛寺以及清萊的白廟。
4.人民幣兌泰銖是 RMB 1==4.7264泰銖。
本文章將原文轉貼為繁體中文方便閱讀