如果不是因為疫情,這篇遊記恐怕是永遠不會出爐的。
11.21,經停香港,飛向臺灣
2016年十一月,北京下第一場雪的那天,我和幾個朋友一起,從首都機場起飛,經香港機場,到臺灣去。
因為是上午的航班,我們提前一天住在了首都機場附近的賓館,早上醒來,發現昨夜的雪的蹤跡。
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吃一頓標準的北方早餐吧,未來的一週裡,我的胃怕是吃不到豆腐腦和油條了。
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飄雪的天空,希望不會影響我們的計劃行程。
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首都T3航站樓,是個考驗體力和腦力的地方,正在展出的公益廣告,勸誡人們愛護野生動物,愛護我們的地球。
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過安檢,過海關,等待登機,這張許可證我會好好保留,也許有一天,它會成我“歷史的證明”。
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B777-300ER,國泰航空的大型寬體客機,讓我們的飛行旅程非常舒適。
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經停香港,看到正在建設中的港珠澳大橋,大灣區的交通便利為這塊土地將會帶來更迅猛的發展,未來可期。在香港轉機,赤臘角機場的管理狀況之好,讓人由衷敬佩。
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再次起飛,再次降落,傍晚時分到達桃園機場,我的雙腳已經站在寶島的大地上。
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向機場的服務人員問路,軟糯的臺灣腔,真的個個都把志玲姐姐比了下去。
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出機場之後,導遊來接我們了,這次行程的導遊,是一位知識淵博、彬彬有禮、經歷豐富的女士,她給我們的行程帶來了很多樂趣。
坐巴士,到酒店,不知不覺中,我們已經容身在另一片華人的世界裡。
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我們今晚入住的,是桃花園飯店,名字很好,也許這次臺灣行,就是一次桃花源記吧。
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酒店的大堂有租車廣告,一度誘發了我環島自駕的想法,或許下一次的臺灣,我會開著車,任太平洋的風吹拂在臉上。
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酒店的設施不錯,窗外樓下,就是臺灣人的生活。
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放好行李,到酒店樓下走一走,除了新鮮感,並沒有多少陌生的感覺,畢竟是一家人,傳承著同樣的文化。
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吃過宵夜,回酒店睡去,今天的行程,讓我進入一片不同的世界。
11.22,野柳海岸,臺北天中
醒來,窗外行雲千片,這是海洋性氣候的典型表現吧
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在餐廳吃了早餐,和大陸的快捷酒店沒什麼不同
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收拾行李,集中到前臺退房後,我們坐著旅行社安排的大巴車,到野柳公園去。
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在導遊的安全知識宣講中,開啟了我們的旅程
車窗外的桃園市街景,並不繁華,給人更多的是簡樸、破舊的感覺。
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機車、機車、機車,就像臺灣電影裡的場景一樣,曾經那麼遙遠,如今這麼親切。
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檳榔妹,是臺灣獨特的風景
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駛上高速公路,田野、村莊、工廠、一幕幕展現在眼前,臺灣的大地,成為我眼裡的風景
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快到八點鐘的時候,101大廈的身影出現在我的眼中,就這樣和臺北打了個照面,我們繼續旅程。
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隨著城市在視野裡消失,海岸展現在我眼前,野柳地質公園到了。
野柳地質公園,是寶島東北角上一塊突出海面的岬角,大自然用海水與風做刀筆,在這裡雕刻出千奇百怪的雕塑
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這一塊天然形成的圖案,和寶島地圖神似。
遠遠望去,這裡就是蘑菇的王國。
女王的拖鞋,遺失在海邊,是否會讓人想起灰姑娘?
一直在洗澡的大象闖入視野
野柳公園的標誌:女王頭像,高高挽起的髮髻,細長的頸子,端莊的儀態讓人肅然敬仰。
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蕈狀石,是野柳最具代表性的地形景觀,蜂窩石、燭狀石、豆腐石也隨處可見,喜愛地質的人到這裡,收穫一定會很大,即使只是普通的觀光客,親眼所見後,也連聲讚歎,最好的藝術家,永遠是大自然。
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離開野柳公園,我們返程去臺北,一路上的風景,便是基隆到臺北的沿途所見。
臺灣土地實行私有化,所以很多房子的造型也是千奇百怪地堆在一起,當個性被無限度地放大以後,就成了雜亂。
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進入臺北市區後,高樓大廈才變得多起來,臺北給我的第一印象,是整潔乾淨的。
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我們的目標是臺北101大樓,2010年以前,臺北101是世界第一高樓,這座大廈如今已經不是第一高了,但它獨特的飽含中國元素的設計,始終令人稱道。
它的外形,宛若勁竹節節高升、柔韌有餘;每八層樓為一個結構單元,彼此接續、層層相疊形成有節奏的律動美感;每年的元旦,101大樓的煙火秀,也是跨年最好的選擇之一。
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乘坐高速電梯,我們到達觀光層,雲聚雲散,快雨時晴,我們看見了浮雲之下,美麗絕倫的臺北。
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101大樓的結構展廳,也能讓人瞭解到這座摩天大廈能夠安然屹立的原因,黃色的吉祥物,很是讓人喜歡。
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從觀景臺下來,經營珊瑚的店鋪很是吸引人的眼球。寶島的珊瑚,是世界上最為名貴的珍寶之一。
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離開高聳入雲天的101大樓,我們又深入到那個市井的人間。
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街上的廣告牌上,竟然還有打字機和電子計算器的畫面。
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陳舊的樓宇,在雨天中,恍惚讓人回到上個世紀末的大陸城市。
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午餐是著名的牛肉麵,觀光巴士把一車一車的大陸游客拉到這家店來就餐,但口味並沒有“旅行餐”的滿滿槽點,反而是被絕大多數人交口稱讚。
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麵館對面的茶廠廣告牌上,赫然是蔣中正先生微笑的面容。
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飯後上車離去,又是一通訊手亂拍,沒有明確目標,只為記錄下這個地方,留在我嚴重的模樣。
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午後的第一站,是“國立故宮博物院”,這是國民黨潰敗臺灣後,將從大陸帶走的珍貴文物儲存的地方。
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我們在安靜的博物館裡,安安靜靜地參觀,看著這些移居寶島的國寶,心中一波又一波的驚歎。
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而博物院裡的眾多書籍,更讓人愛不釋手,想一股腦地買回去,慢慢看。
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離開故宮博物院,下一站是士林官邸。這是蔣介石在臺灣的住處,如今只留下一座私人別墅,其餘地點全面開放給人蔘觀。
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這座小樓,就是曾經那個風雲人物,在臺灣的住所。
宋美齡篤信天主,在這裡有一個專門為她而建的禮拜堂。
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其他的開放區域,是一個巨大的園藝公園,綠草成蔭,鮮花遍地。
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又下雨了,我們坐車離開,向著今天的目的地:臺中市而去。
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在臺中郊外一個飯店吃飯,一天的旅程還是很勞累的,也因此胃口大開,吃的肚子溜圓。
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今晚的住宿比起昨天差了很多,小小的旅館處處是卡通風格,不過衛生條件還好,湊合一夜吧。
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雨停了,和朋友上街走走,夜雨後的街巷,有種莫名的親切感。
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路遇一家很好吃的豆花店,又進去大快朵頤,如果有機會再來,我想去再吃一碗。
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7-11,成了之後每到一個地方,我們都會去逛一逛的便利店。
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夜深了,入眠
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11.23,日月奇譚,中臺佛土
早晨下起了大雨,天空的雲層濃密。
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今天的早餐也很簡單,飯後退房離開,我們在雨中駛向日月潭。
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窗外的一切那麼熟悉,也那麼不同。
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從城市到田間,綠意盎然的大地和逐漸放晴的天空,都讓人心情向好。
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終於從高速公路轉向山間小路,日月潭到了。
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日月潭的位置,正處在臺灣寶島的腹地,我們在朝霧碼頭登船,駛入這一片雲霧繚繞的仙境。
船老大的故事和老婆婆的茶葉蛋,是旅途中讓人印象深刻的畫面。
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停車場的收費系統,比起大陸來,真是古老了很多。
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從日月潭出來,我們進入了第一家購物店,這是廉價旅行團的必選科目,正好,從沒有參加過旅行團的我,也體驗一次吧。
老村長的野生靈芝真是好,可惜沒人買,導遊也不強迫,我看到檜木的手把件,倒是買了一個拿在手裡玩。
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離開老村長的靈芝店,下一站:中臺禪寺。
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寶剎莊嚴,寶剎也擁有極佳的風水和數不盡的珍寶,佛法無量,佛法無邊。
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在中臺禪寺,除了讓人震驚的大雄寶殿,更讓人歎服的,是木雕分館。
這裡珍藏了眾多雕工精湛的佛像,如果你也有緣前往的話,一定要去看看。
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離開中臺禪寺,離開群山的懷抱,繼續在雨中行我們的路。
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今晚我們住在嘉義,住宿條件是七天行程中最舒適的,在臺灣,屬於四花酒店。
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可惜酒店地處偏僻,也便不出去夜遊了,到旁邊的7-11買來啤酒和零食,我們的夜宵,就在酒店的露天泳池邊上消遣吧。
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也許今天與佛有緣,酒店裡有一本《地藏菩薩本願經》,夜讀,入眠。
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11.24,阿里群山,高雄夜港
“阿里山的姑娘美如水啊,阿里山的少年壯如山”。我們今天的第一個目的地,是阿里山。
昨天經歷了一天的雨,今天早上的天空仍然陰著,吃過早飯,我們向阿里山進發。
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“頂六”,看起來是地名了。
在臺灣,幾乎每天都能看到教堂,上帝的福音,在寶島上有很好的傳播。
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臺北故宮博物院,有在嘉義建立分館的計劃,看來已經在實施中。
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路上漸漸放晴,希望今天是個 Nice day
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上山之前,先來品一下阿里山的茶吧,當然,這是個“購物環節”。
茶不錯,還有“前總統”馬英九代言,那就買一些回去,當做伴手禮吧。
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茶廠旁邊停著的老式汽車,很吸引人,義大利的品牌,有著古典的優雅氣質。
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老騎車旁邊,還有著名的“光陽機車”。
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前往阿里山,盤山公路上先是雲霧繚繞,如同仙境一般。之後突然破空放晴,天空藍的讓人心醉。
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高高的樹上結檳榔,誰先爬上誰先嚐。
山路彎彎,經過導遊的講解,我才知道路邊這些細細高高的樹,就是檳榔樹了。
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天氣好,車上的大家心情也好,歡歌笑語起來
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今天的第一個景點,是福美吊橋。
福美吊橋所在的村落是臺灣的少數民族“山美”部落,而吊橋是利用福建的資金援建的,所以這條吊橋的名字就叫“福美吊橋”。
兩岸一家親,在很多時候,就是通過這樣的民間活動來連結血脈相通的感情。
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阿里山的生態環境很好,我們到的這一區域叫“達娜伊谷”,生活著高山族的山民,這裡也是他們世代棲居的地方。
走過福美吊橋的幸福路,我們回到當地族人的村落中,看一場演出,為我們奉上演出的這個高山族的支系,叫做“邵族”。
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演出很精彩,主持很幽默,遊客很開心,最後,大家都知道了“阿里山的姑娘美如鬼,阿里山的少年撞到山”。
山地居民,用自己的淳樸和幽默,給我們留下了最深刻的印象。
演出結束,吃過一頓高山族的午飯,我們繼續出發。
離開阿里山達娜伊谷,我們到高雄去。
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高樓林立,市井繁華,街上的人不慌不忙,有種淡定和從容,高雄給我的第一印象,比臺北好。
在高雄,我們又是先去了購物店,這次吸引人購買的,是乳膠枕頭和乳膠床墊。
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買好枕頭和床墊,我們到海邊去,看“打狗英國領事館”。沿途,欣賞一下高雄的街景吧。
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“打狗”,是臺灣原住居民語言的音譯,這裡最早是平埔族原住民馬卡道族的居住地,因盛產竹子得名“takau”(平埔族語,意為竹林),漢語音譯為打狗,“打狗”便是高雄最早的名稱。日治初期,日本人認為這個地名不雅,便將地名改為高雄,因日語之“高雄”發音為“taka-o”,與打狗之音相近。
位於西子灣旁的“打狗英國領事館”是一幢小小的二層樓,白色的格子窗,磚紅色的牆,迂迴寬敞的長廊,配著綠色的草坪,現在,這裡已成了博物館、露天咖啡館和紀念品商店,極富浪漫情調。
在英國領事館的山巔,遙望整個高雄港,繁華之中,也藏著些許寧靜。
告別領事館之後,我們去坐渡輪,體驗一下高雄人民騎機車坐輪渡的下班感受。
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乘輪渡去,乘輪渡回,之後,我們到酒店辦理入住,今晚的酒店名字叫“信宗”。
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放好行李,夜市之旅開啟了,今晚旅行團不管飯,我們去高雄的夜市,體驗臺灣獨特的夜市文化。
好吃的東西太多了,幾乎家家都美味可口,
夜市上太乾淨了,地面上基本不會看到垃圾,
夜市的商家滿足感很高,幾乎個個都開心地招攬著生意,
夜市裡,居然還有“賭博”生意可以做。
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滿意的夜市之旅結束,回到酒店休息,才發現這“信宗”,是一家宣揚佛教文化的酒店,於是在前臺借一本書,翻看著,漸漸困了,入眠。
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11.25,南赴墾丁,夜宿臺東
今天醒來,天空湛藍。
吃過早飯出發。今天,我們會到達寶島的最南端:墾丁鵝鑾鼻。
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在前往“寶島之南”之前,我們還是先去了購物店,這次是個大雜貨店,裡面有各式樣的美食和雜貨,價格不高,為了配合導遊,大家多多少少都買了一些。
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終於正式出發了,我們距離大海越來越近,天空也美的像一幅畫卷。
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目之所及的遠處,那幾塊黑色礁石,就是臺灣島的最南端:鵝鑾鼻。
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曾經看過的某部電影《海角七號》,就是在這裡的取景,我也在這片恆春的沙灘上,感受電影裡淡淡的哀愁。
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繞過鵝鑾鼻,我們的巴士開始北上,向臺東的方向駛去,臺灣島東海岸與西岸的平緩大相徑庭,這裡的地質結構,讓公路只能建在大海邊的斷崖上,景色為此壯美,也為此更為凶險。
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傍晚之前,我們到達了一個溫泉度假村,到那裡泡溫泉,但是一想到:“臺東海邊山谷的溫泉裡,泡滿了大陸觀光客。”我就一點興致也沒有了,獨自在周邊轉轉吧。
泡好溫泉,進入臺東,大家飢腸轆轆了,先吃飯吧。這次的旅行團,團餐的質量還是很不錯的。
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今晚在臺東,我們住在“姑姑的家”,這是一間民宿,之前導遊大姐還給我們開了玩笑說民宿的服務設施比較差,要大家做好半夜起來出門上廁所等等心理準備。
其實到達之後才知道,這一家民宿,和童話世界也相差不多了,條件非常好。
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並且這整片區域裡,都是民宿的集中地,一家連著一家,看來臺灣的旅遊業,狀況好極了。
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11.26,東岸探海,花蓮懷古
姑姑家的早餐很不錯,吃完之後,我們坐上巴士,去購物,今天的商店裡,賣的是珊瑚和珠寶,關於珊瑚,導遊大姐已經在昨天為大家普及了知識。
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雨過天晴,我們也來到了購物店中,被關進去差不多兩個小時,挑選吧,屬於你的珊瑚正在等著你,店鋪很大,還請來兩位重量級的女士打廣告,珠寶是女人最好的朋友,戴著珊瑚飾品,確實會讓人有雍容華貴的感覺。
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天空晴好,我們出發,沿著太平洋西岸,向花蓮的方向去。
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在這片叫“加路蘭海岸”的海邊,我們親近大海吧,太平洋的浪濤在腳下拍擊,那感覺,舒服極了。
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在這個海邊的天空中,不時有軍機飛過,那是臺灣的“空中力量”,看起來,實力挺弱的。
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離開加路蘭,上車繼續北行,導遊自己掏腰包,請我們吃了這裡非常著名的包子,要說這包子,味道好極了。
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在一片青翠的山間,我們下車休息,這裡有度假的本地車輛。又吸引了不少人的眼球。
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在之後的山裡,我們又遇到了一群霸道的猴子
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繼續北行,一路是山海之間的風景,這風景也傾注了築路人的血與汗,請允許我為他們致敬。
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繼續北行,我們到達了北迴歸線的標誌點。
每年夏至,北半球迎來最長的一天,太陽在正午時分,在這裡到達天頂後,就會逐日南移。
這時候我才發現自己的地理知識如此淺薄,原以為北迴歸線,會在更靠近北方的地方,卻不知北迴歸線,正好貫穿了寶島,原來如此的“南”。
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突發童心的兩個胖子,在這裡起跳,來個南北相望吧
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太平洋的藍色,醉人。
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進入花蓮,路遇“榮軍之家”,這是跟隨國民黨潰敗臺灣的祖籍在大陸的軍人,在寶島最後的家。
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之後,我們的車開往太魯閣
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蜻蜓點水般,我們與這片莽莽大山,來了一次近距離接觸,之後便分散,期待把更深的緣分,留給將來的時間。
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前往花蓮的路上,導遊給我們看了一份重要的歷史文獻:授田憑據。
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吃飯、入住、去7-11買來啤酒和夜宵,今夜,我睡在花蓮。
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11.27,再赴臺北,重返桃園
又一個清晨,又一個雨天。
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又一次在購物店中耗費了兩個小時後,我們前往臺鐵新城站,去體驗臺灣省的小火車。
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前往車站的路上,送我們前往車站的大巴為了趕時間,還發生了追尾事故,所幸無大礙,只是誤了車,於是改乘下一班。
在車站等車的時候,我們的午飯,是“鐵路便當”。
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並且,我一度在大陸喝過然後又很多年喝不到的“舒跑”,再次進入我的視線。
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陰雨天,老車站,小火車,讓我又回到臺灣電影的感覺裡面。
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小火車的車廂,更像大陸的地鐵車廂,它載著我們,穿過臺灣島最凶險的道路,在下一站,早在凌晨就出發的司機師傅,開著空車到那裡等我們。
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臺鐵的小火車,是臺灣人民通勤的好工具,連自行車都可以帶入車廂,繼續他的旅程。
下車,坐巴士,我們又回到了臺北。
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臺北,依然是氤氳的雨天,依然是陰霾的天空。
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今天在臺北的觀光地,是“國父紀念館”。這裡最著名的,就是“換崗儀式”。
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參觀過國父紀念館後,最後的一次購物,是免稅店。
晚上,我們住進了桃園市,在臺灣非常有名的“汽車旅店”。
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今晚自由活動,和朋友們聚聚餐吧
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之後便是閒逛,看到一家沉香店,那些讓人愛不釋手,卻無法帶走的大地瑰寶,拍幾張照片留念吧。
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11.28,告別寶島,飛返北國
在汽車旅館裡醒來,我起床到周邊去散散步,看看桃園市清晨的模樣。
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距離汽車旅館不遠處,一座飛龍做簷的小廟,格外惹眼。
從廟裡張貼的環保告示來看,這裡叫做“莊敬宮”。能用龍的圖騰來裝飾廟宇,這小小的地方,怕也是不尋常吧。
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小廟旁邊是一條河,岸邊的工業設施,規模不大,恐怕這也是臺灣經濟體量的縮影了。
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街角的樓,馬賽克外牆略顯陳舊的年代感,如果是在大陸,這樣的黃金位置,一定是一棟閃閃發亮的大廈。
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白雲舒捲,天色蔚藍,天氣好起來,我沿街走著,回汽車旅館去。
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回到旅店吃早飯,告別的時候要到了。
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到達桃園機場,入海關,安檢,一系列手續很快辦完。
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昨天在免稅店買的禮品,也可以在這裡提取了。
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乘坐國泰航空的航班,經停香港。
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在香港轉機,吃一次翠華餐廳的點心,下次,要來香港轉一轉了。
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其他
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在旅行的路上,我的腳步曾經踏在寶島上,走過七天。
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