前言
台湾一直是我很想来的地方,这次终于可以去完成心中梦想已久的旅程了。
话不多说,先来点预告。
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准备阶段
1.签证。大陆居民入境台湾需要两证一签,两证:大陆居民往来台湾通行证+入台证,一签:出入境部门办理入台签证。通行证在出入境视窗就能办理,这次在微信申请签证还给了优惠。入台证必须找旅行社办理,如果找市面正规的、大的旅行社收费很贵,需要的资料也复杂,最好是网上(某宝)之类的找,只要信用度比较排前的都可以,价钱一般不超过200人民币,除非是加急的那种。
2.手机卡、随身WiFi、开通漫游套餐。
手机卡应该是大多数人会选择的,网上买的卡都包含流量的,可以选择网上下订到机场领取卡的那种,如果出了机场到店里买手机卡一般费用更高。
随身WiFi比较适合几人同行的方式。
漫游套餐相对以上方式是费用最高的,但是不用换卡,手机到当地直接使用。
3.悠游卡。悠游卡是当地的交通卡+银行卡,台湾所有7-11都能充值和刷卡使用,也有一些店铺标识可以使用的,非常方便。tip.悠游卡充值最低面值为TWD100。
4.兑换台币。台币汇率在大陆的银行相对较低,而且需要预约。机场也有兑换的视窗,汇率比大陆银行高。如果不是一下飞机急着使用台币的话,可以拿大陆的银行卡直接到7-11的柜员机取现金,这样汇率最高,是最省钱的方法。
5.台铁、高铁。台铁和高铁有官方订票的APP,就像这里的12306网站一样,高铁票提前预订还能享受早鸟优惠,不过需要翻墙。也可以选择行程当天到车站刷悠游卡搭乘,网上也有代订火车、高铁的,不过会收取少量的手续费,但这样可以根据自身行程安排,在网上先选择当天所需要的车次时间,给自己留足充裕时间准备。
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行程安排
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DAY 1.
下了飞机,坐上桃园捷运往台北车站去,第一次亲眼看到台湾的风光,好兴奋!我真切感受到这次属于自己的旅途要开始了……
这里要推荐一下这家青年旅社:信星青年旅馆 ( 台北车站) //www.mafengwo.cn/hotel/5520397.html
旅馆地理位置很好,从台北地下街Y13(太原路出口)出来,走不到10分钟路程就到了。当然了,我这个路痴当时绕着旅馆附近的路走了两圈才看到。
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在旅馆放下行李,打算坐捷运到西门町了。到的那天是周六,捷运上很多人。我从西门站出来的时候,真的吓我一跳!放眼望过去,全是人头。心想,台北的周末也是人山人海啊!其实直到我旅程结束的那天我才知道,那晚是台北灯会的亮灯仪式,我整个行程就是台北灯会的举行时间,还好本人对灯会不感兴趣,要不然会感觉错过了一世纪。
我绕过人群,才看到西门红楼。这里原本是个戏院,现在改造成买文创品的地方了。因为建筑风格怀旧,很多人喜欢在这里拍文艺照,妥妥的民国风情。
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由于西门町举行仪式,实在太多人了,我根本挤不进去。逛了一会儿,都快接近六点了,就随便找了一家牛肉面馆。我对吃没有太多研究,出发前,我看过一个博主说台北牛肉面都不错,不挑吃。所以我当时就打算在台湾天天都吃牛肉面,结果到行程的第三天我就开始厌倦它了。
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本来是打算到台北101大厦的,吃完面出来,老天爷开始下雨了,所以放弃了去看夜景的念头。
DAY 2.
从台北到瑞芳坐台铁要一个半小时车程,要想去平溪支线游,最好在10点以前就到瑞芳,可以少少避开人流高峰期。这样的时间,导致我当天早上六点就爬起来,洗刷后,到楼下7-11买了早点边走边吃。
到了瑞芳,先把大件行李寄存在车站,把该带的物件拿起,因为中途是不允许返回拿东西的,还要记得在晚上八点前回来取。
平溪线是把沿途几个乡村小镇连在一起的旅游线路,最受欢迎的是总站:菁桐和中间站:十分。
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在上车之前,可以拍下车站的时刻表,根据时间调整自己的游玩时间,要是错过了,有的班车需要等的时间较长。
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到了瑞芳,还是避不开下雨这一重要环节。这一天的行程都在天空时而飘着毛毛雨,时而下起小雨的天气中度过。
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从瑞芳车站出来,可以选择坐公车或打的士的前往九份。因为当时下很大的雨,所以我就在车站门口的的士站打车进去。你可以跟司机说自己订的是哪家民宿,司机会把你送到最近的地方去。
九份是座山城,听闻宫崎骏爷爷的千与千寻的灵感来源于此,也因此很多人慕名而来。
因为是山城,少不了爬楼梯,所以要住在这里,不要带太大件行李,或许可以选择把大件行李寄存在瑞芳车站。
建议选择老街上的旅馆,老街又叫基山街,是条平路,铺的是麻石,街两旁全是地道小吃,应有尽有。店铺在晚上七八点开始关门,要尝试美食的话,就要安排好时间了。
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到了九份,雨下得比在山下更厉害了。人也多,走到竖崎路的时候更是人挤人,走不动了。因为从竖崎路下去是旅行团的停车处,很多的旅行团从那里走上来,山路本来不宽,再加上下雨了,行走很不方便。我就在那附近吃了点东西,回民宿了。
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DAY 3.
早上吃过民宿提供的早餐后,出来逛逛。因为下过雨,太阳又躲起来了,从高处望出去,山中的雾气令这个小镇多几分神祕。
我在看的时候,遇到一个当地人告诉我,要是明天你来看的话就能见到云海啦!
好吧,我下次再来看。
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从基山街出来,右手边是一家7-11便利店,在它的斜对面就有公车站,很多条线路都经过瑞芳火车站,等车的时间也不算长。
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去旅行的时候,耳边经常响起一句话:最美的风景在路上。其实我还挺喜欢坐火车去旅游的。
台铁的舒适程度以及列车上贩卖的便当都很符合我的要求,舒服,风光优美,便当的大块肉,总的来说,就是物美价廉。
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坐了两个多小时的火车来到了花莲,出火车站的那刻,看到蓝天和白云,心情甚是舒畅。
推荐住宿:
花莲洄澜窝青年旅舍
//www.mafengwo.cn/hotel/9584249.html
这家青旅就在火车站正对面,因为很多拼车团都在旅馆楼下接人,所以选择了它。旅馆前台还给我提供了花莲游玩地图,我放下行李就准备出去走走。
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这家创意园前身是个酒厂,里面挺大的,按照酿酒的工序分了几个区域,并不是全部都开放,有些厂房改建成展览厅了,没有展览的时候是关闭的。
园区人很少,就比较适合文青来拍照。
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旧铁道行人徒步区有点像个城市中心的公园,在一条旧铁道两旁,有供有人休憩的地方,还有商店。
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花莲有一个叫东大门的夜市,在海边,但是距离我住的地方比较远。在准备离开文创园的时候,又开始下起小雨了,就此打消逛夜市的念头。
晚餐在青旅附近的小店铺解决,这个鸡肉饭饭量很少,不过适合我这种本来吃不太多的人。
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DAY 4.
早上八点,坐上旅游大巴,开始新一天的旅程。
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长春祠是纪念当年修建这条全台唯一的横贯东西的公路而牺牲的士兵,那都是当初从国内被迫撤离的老兵。司机告诉我们,以前这个地方并没有瀑布流出。长春祠历经两次倒塌之后,才在这个位置修建,修建以后就莫名其妙出现了一条终年不歇,水量无论雨季或者旱季都一样的瀑布。长春祠所面对的方向是国内的东北方,有人说,那是思乡的眼泪。
这个故事虽然有点神奇,也有点玄乎,但还是不禁让人觉得唏嘘和感伤。
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这家太鲁阁牛肉面馆据说很好吃,每天慕名而来的人大排长龙,店外的路上全是等吃的车队。
我到那的时候,人不算太多,起码有位子坐。
不是吃货,我品不出哪里不一样,不过价格确实比市面买得便宜。而且,我觉得它火的原因,大概是这条路上好像只有他一家面馆。
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这条从山里出来的铁路,莫名有种千与千寻的感觉,大概是我太喜欢这部漫画了。
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听闻,清水断崖是苏花公路上最靓丽的一道风景。我带着无比期待的心情去看,果然没让人失望。
一边是直插太平洋的悬崖峭壁,另一边是一望无际,比天还要蓝的海洋。
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七星潭,并不是有七个潭,它就是一个海。名字来源与日本人有关系。在日治时期,当地人本在海后面的山里生活,而日本人需要征用整片山区,把他们都赶到了在海边生活。当时山里有七个堰塞湖,当地人为了纪念自己曾经生活的地方,因而把这个地方叫做七星潭。
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这个海边并没有沙子,全是大小形状不一的石头。
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据说,在这个海边砌的石头层数越高,那个人就越幸福。要是你不幸把别人堆砌的石头堆踢倒了,那人的霉运会转嫁到你身上去。
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传说总带点神祕色彩,但是听着海的声音,吹着海风,看着一望无际的太平洋,实在太舒适了,可以在这堆一个下午的石头。反正我是乐在其中了。
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七星潭的后边是一个军用飞机场,每隔一段时间能看到几架战斗机从你头上天空中飞过,不过一开始听到的时候,是被它的噪音吓到了。
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DAY 5.
从花莲到清境农场只有走公路这种方式,如果不是自驾游,就只能拼车了。全程都是盘山公路,要是晕车的人还挺辛苦的。
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清境农场分了两个大区,一个是青青草原,一个观山景区,两个区域中间有个美食区,必须出了各自区域的门口才能到美食区。所以,买票进场之后记得在手背上盖章。
农场依山而建,从正门,就是北门进入比较好,这样就可以顺着山势往下走,要不然爬上去会很累的。
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在来清境农场之前,就听闻过它的美誉:台湾小瑞士。来到之后发现,真的很静谧自然,太适合一家人来度假了。
在这里,你可以买一盒农场提供的饲料,与绵羊近距离接触。
一开始,我也不敢直接伸手喂养的,因为这里的羊被投喂的次数太多了,变得很精明了。只要看到你手上拿着一盒东西,就会走到你身边。它的身高刚好到我的腰部,头伸过来的时候着实让我害怕。后来,慢慢接触之后,绵羊是很温顺的,就不怕了。
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小瑞士花园是另外一个售票园区,大概不是花期,又或者没有认真打理,我感觉里面很是萧条。水幕表演只是喷泉而已,不值一看。
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推荐住宿:南投清境爱力家生活村民宿
//hotels.ctrip.com/hotel/1068872.html?isFull=F
民宿位于国民宾馆附近,位于农场的南边,距离小瑞士花园10分钟的路程。可以选择它的猴王洞双人房,它是一个户外搭建的房子,外形像一个洞,里面有点像太空舱的感觉,空间很大。
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DAY 6.
因为是在山上,早上起来雾挺大的,而且早晚气温差别大。早上出来的时候穿着羽绒服,太阳出来之后,走着走着就得穿薄款的外套了。
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高空观景步道也是另外收费的,单程大概需要走40分钟,如果需要多次进入,请记得在进去的时候在手背上盖章。
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步道依山而建,远方是延绵不断的山脉,近处是安静的小镇,生活在这里的人幸福感一定很高吧。
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这里的空气清新,夸张的说法是,感觉空气的味道是甜的。早上起来一定要出去逛逛,走在高空观景步道上看到的风景,让人怀疑是不是到了欧洲的某个小镇里。我实在不舍得离开这里了!
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从清境农场到台中,可以选择坐南投客运,不过需要转车。我在住店的时候,前台帮我联络好了师傅,直接开车去台中,免去拖着行李坐公车、转车的麻烦。
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到达台中火车站已经是下午了。台中比较出名的是逢甲夜市、宫原眼科。逢甲夜市距离我住的地方比较远,坐公车需要一个多小时,好不幸运的是,到达的时候台中又开始下雨了。
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DAY 7.
今天也是网上预订了一天游,第一站是彰化的鹿港龙山寺。
龙山寺在90年代那场台湾大地震中,损毁严重,经历了大修才有如此的面貌。可是,从外观上看,还是挺残旧的,到底他们是怎么做到修旧如旧的呢?
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我感觉全国各地都有摸乳巷,而摸乳巷的由来都差不多,不知道为什么会成为景点,也许因为名字奇特吧。
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鹿港小镇的成名,可能因为罗大佑的那首歌。
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彩虹眷村的形成是因为住在这里的一位退伍老兵,喜欢在自己的屋内墙壁上用水泥漆随意作画,画作充满童趣。后来,老人越画越有兴致了,逐渐由屋内画到屋外,不久就把破旧的眷村变成了绚烂多彩的童话世界。
真的感谢这位童心未泯的老人,让这里充满活力,它现在成为台中旅游打卡点。
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村子很小,到处都是丰富多彩的画,很多游客喜欢来这里拍照留念,我还遇到一群中学生,估计是他们来这里春游吧。
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东海大学最具标志性的建筑:路思义教堂,因为它的外型特别,也吸引了很多游客。
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来到高美溼地,就下起了小雨,风特别大,感觉我能被它吹到太平洋去了。
天公不作美,日落是看不到了,不这里的小吃还值得一试,特别是花枝丸。花枝俗称乌贼,吃起来感觉很像墨鱼丸。在溼地岸边吹了风,来一串,风味十足。
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DAY 8.
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DAY 9.
台北回广州啦!
小感想
这趟旅程我还是很满足,因为到了自己几年前就很想去的地方,特别是清境农场的那两天,真的遇上了好天气,那也是我的好运气。
这趟旅行也有遗憾的地方。
例如:
来到第一天和走之前的那一天,都碰上了下雨,看不到台北的夜景;
没有看到九份的夜景;
没有去过最有特色的夜市;
回来之后才知道中正纪念堂有宫崎骏的手稿展览。
虽然这些遗憾有些错过了就没有了,但是每趟旅程总会各种各样的遗憾,也因为遗憾才觉得美好,才会珍惜。
台湾,我们下次再见!
本文章将原文转贴为繁体中文方便阅读