拖拖拉拉的一篇游记。
出发前的犹豫
2019不知不觉就要结束了,这一年去了丽江(泸沽湖),南京。丽江算是重游,可能是随着年龄的增长,不太爱独自上路了,亦或是有点懒了吧,不像原来动力那么大。然尔剩余的假期也要用完,还是出去逛逛吧。北方的冬天没有体会过也不太想体会,南方差不多都去过。正值澳门回归20周年的高光时刻,与香港此时的混乱形成鲜明对比,大大提升了澳门在我心中的好感度。正好也没去过,出发前两天抽空把签注办了,现在自助办理很方便2分钟不到就办好了,一次签15元。也不知出于什么心理,直到出发前一天晚上我才把动车票,住宿订好。好在不是旅游旺季,都顺利订到。
12.25日贵阳北-广州南 (动车):312元 ;广州南-珠海(城际铁路) 70元 ;住: 太空舱 64元
12.26日 珠海拱北口岸-澳门 ;住:家园宾馆 377元
12.27日 澳门-珠海 ;住:太空舱 74元
12.28日 珠海-广州南 (城际铁路)70元;住:青年旅舍单人间:111元
12.29日 广州南-贵阳东 (动车):323元
十年后再到珠海
上次去珠海已经是十年前了,是从深圳蛇口坐船过去的,突发奇想去逛了一圏、住了一晚、见了个朋友、吃了一顿生蠔火㶽,只能算做到此一游而以。贵阳已经有直接到珠海的动车,但是到达已是差不多晚上6点了,而且广州南到珠海的城轨公交化发车很方便,所以我选择了贵阳到广州南再转到珠海的方式,换乘也很方便。现在的交通真是越来越方便了,把两个城市之间的距离“拉近”了。早上8:00出发,在下午15:00多就已经站到珠海了。
珠海火车站就在拱北口岸旁边,也太方便群众了。我订了离口岸不远的太空舱,价格便宜,方便明早过关。顺利到达后收拾了一下,出门右拐就是情侣路,海面上就是港珠澳大桥。情侣路有公交L1观光线路,1元,(珠海的公交好像都是1元)途经爱情邮局(灯塔)、珠海渔女、日月贝(大剧院)。当然骑上共享单车也是不错的选择。这个时节如同初夏,海风吹过,不热不晒,很舒服。
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这趟出行的第一餐,迫不急待的点了心心念唸的烧鹅饭。
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十年前初到珠海,就感觉珠海是个很漂亮的海滨城市,十年过去了,看过的风景也多了,经历的事情也多了,再到这个城市,当初的些许印象已经模糊了很多,这次到访感觉这个城市更漂亮了,情侣路上真是休闲散步的好去处。珠海是个很适合养老的城市。
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澳门(Macao)-我来了
来之前看到有些攻略上说,兑换MOP(葡币)要注意,关口容易被坑,虽然说澳门也接受港币,但是换点在身上应付普通吃、交通还是有必要的。我选择在口岸广场上7-11旁边的店里换的,看上去应该是正规的。我不打算买什么东西,只用于吃饭和坐车,就只换500元RMB应该够了。最后是花498RMB=540MOP,其中还包含收取的5元手续费。
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今天就要过关去澳门了,心里多少有点兴奋也有点忐忑,兴奋的是我第一次到澳门,忐忑的是未知的一切。8:30我加入了拱北口岸过关大军,看着人很多,但是自助过关还是很方便的,也没有花太多时间。只是有个小插曲,大陆边检指纹的时候,红灯亮了,不能通过。和第一次出国去迪拜一样,又被警察带走,警察在电脑上啪啪,说可以了。我问有什么问题吗,他说没有,难道这仪器还认生?澳门边很顺利就过关了。澳门边口岸的叫法为“关闸”,如果坐澳门公交回到拱北口岸要注意地名的变化。出了大厅,左手边全是各大酒店的接驳大巴(又名:发财车)。
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第一天我打算去离澳门半岛相对远的氹仔,也就是豪华酒店遍布的地方,先逛逛各大奢华的酒店。我选择坐上前往威尼斯人的大巴车,感觉去这个酒店的人最多,排队也是最长的,不过还好车很多,也没有等太久就坐上车了,不要钱的免费车也就不要报怨了,哈哈!车开上友谊大桥前,一路拥堵,上了桥就OK了。澳门的“小”先从马路开始体会。路上还经过了澳门机场,也是很小巧,这里也看到发财车在到达大厅出口等客。10点不到大巴到达了威尼斯人酒店(西翼)大厅,记住这个落车点,之后还要来到这里。酒店太大了,一时间毫无方向感,先去有名的运河购物街逛逛,转了好一会才找到。有种固定思维,有运河应该在一楼或是负一楼,结果是要坐手扶电梯上楼。其实从西翼大厅进去后直走看到“娱乐场”入口的那部扶手电梯上去就是运河购物街。10点还早,好些店铺还没开门,我不购物所以对我逛街没有影响,最主要是没钱购物。购物街很大,很漂亮,贵阳在2019年开了家商场就是模仿威尼斯人酒店运河购物街的,相比之下的确有点山寨,哈哈!
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官也街
逛了一圈威尼斯人重新回到西翼大厅,就是刚才下车的地方,往右边走,上过街天桥,旁边是驻澳部队,过了天桥还有平地电梯,就像机场里的那种。向右就是“龙环葡韵”,向左就是“官也街”。不管从哪边走都可以互通的。我是先从右手边逛起的,因为也不知道哪是哪,就随便逛了,没想到就走到了龙环葡韵。它是澳门八景之一,龙环是氹仔的旧称,有五幢碧翠凝绿的葡萄牙风格的建筑物组成。分别为葡韵生活馆、汇艺廊、创艺馆、风貌馆和迎宾馆,都可以进入免费参观,也非常适合拍照。然后从后面上坡,有个教堂叫嘉模圣母堂建于1885年,是氹仔唯一的天主教堂,外墙为黄色,对面的小平房好像是当地人登记结婚的地方吧,正好有新人在登记,工作人员还在叫号,之后还有新人和家人在拍照纪念。地方不大,但感觉挺温馨的。顺着小街小巷走,没多久就是官也街了,其实就是小巷子而以。
官也街是条不长也不宽的小巷子,是当地的老街区,吃的很多。走走吃吃,顺便把附近的一些小巷子一起逛了,最多1小时逛完。虽然小不过逛一下还是不错的。在这里吃了安德鲁蛋挞(10元/个)、莫义记木糠布丁(38元)、长州芒果糯米滋(19元)、大利来记猪扒包+饮料(70元),都还不错,说到出名的大利来记猪扒包,感觉没有想像中那么好吃,只能说一般般。澳门的物价如果以内地的收入来算还是有点贵的。去的算早,人不是很多,有很多韩国人,也在不停的拍。出点名的小店也还是要排个队。
过桥天桥上拍的,那是超大的澳门银河酒店。
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人性化的平地电梯,过完后,往右手走就是“龙环葡韵”,往左走就是官也街。
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这个可不是金莲花广场,哈哈!我一开始以为是的,想想这个规模小了点。
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官也街的吃!
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豪华酒店疯狂逛
逛完重新回到刚才上天桥的地方,威尼斯人刚才已经逛过,穿过马路就是澳门银河,酒店很大是那种超大的感觉,人也很多。旅游团都把这些酒店当成景点来参观。这些豪华酒店并不仅仅是酒店,集吃、喝、玩、乐、购、赌,都可以满足。有钱人完全不用出酒店就可以玩个尽兴。这天下午就是逛够氹仔这边的酒店。威尼斯人、澳门银河、巴黎人、新豪影汇、新豪天地,美高梅、永利皇宫,我都佩服我自己的脚力。
逛了一圈澳门银河重新回到威尼斯人,跟着指引牌去巴黎人酒店,这家的标志就是高高的仿建的埃菲尔铁塔,酒店里面也有购物中心。
再往前走就是新豪影汇了,以电影元素为主,有娱乐设施,在淘宝上可以订票好像会比较划算。下次和朋友或家人来的时候再来体验吧,一个人感觉不太想去玩这些东西。接着到大厅可以搭乘酒店免费大巴去新豪天地,因为新豪天地有非常有名演出“水舞间”,我也把这个专案留到了下次。新豪天地对面就是美高梅,标志性大狮子就在门口立著。
斜对面的马路上方就有澳门才开通轨道交通其中一个站点,下面就是永利皇宫了,要进入永利皇宫可以免费搭乘门口的缆车进入,很有意思的一个进酒店方式。叫皇宫真的不为过,富丽堂皇,很精致很奢华。里面有个艺术展,可以看看,然后原路返回至下缆车的地方,再次搭乘回到刚才的出发点。这一圈都是高阶豪华酒店,慢慢走回威尼斯人这里是东冀大厅,也就是发财车下车点的另一边,感受一下与澳门老城完全不一样的现代奢华。从酒店里面走回西冀大厅,再次搭乘免费大巴去港澳码头,为什么要去港澳码头呢,因为那里可搭乘新葡京免费大巴到老城区,就是这么方便还免费。
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葡京还是很大气的,上车就会发一张单子,可以凭单子到2楼领取礼品,只要时间多愿意排队,就去领吧。特别注意,如果想坐葡京酒店的大巴车回到关闸口岸返回珠海,也要在二楼娱乐场里先领票(也是免费)再去酒店外面排队乘车,不要看到别人排队也跟着排,没有票工作人员不让上车的。
澳门老城区马路真的很窄,楼房也都有点年代了。夜色来临天慢慢黑了,往十六铺酒店方向走去找我今天晚上住的酒店。途中路过议事厅前地,正值圣诞节,气氛很浓,彩灯下更加好看了,想想大三巴也就离得不远了,先把酒店找到再来逛吧!说到酒店,澳门和香港一样也是个寸土寸金的地方,好酒店太贵,对于我这种穷游的还是住一般的算了,来之前在“去**”订了一家叫“家园酒店”看了评价和价格都不错,订了一晚花费377元,(周末节假日可就不是这个价了,之后我看了一下周末的价格已经变成600多了)就在路过也还算好找,楼下有公交车经过。一路上都有当地人光顾的小餐馆。从价格和位置上来说这个酒店真的不错,在大厅办好入住,要交300押金(现金),人民币,葡币都可以。别看是老楼,还有电梯已经不错了,5楼大床房。开门一看,真的开心,房间里该有的都有,也很干净,房间比香港的大很多。装修得也不错,不是旧旧的感觉。下次来还住这里是我这趟澳门之行的总结之一。休息了一会,出门简单逛逛把晚餐解决了。澳门的小街小巷真的多,七捌八捌的路上吃了个白切鸡饭,味道不错,45元算是良心价了。接着七捌八捌居然到了恋爱巷,已经看到大三巴牌坊的顶了。顺着恋爱巷上去,就已经到达大三巴牌坊了,下面就是高高的台阶,还省了爬台阶的体力。时间来得正正好,离灯光秀还有2分钟就开始了,这个季节晚上的风吹着还是有点凉意的还好我加了件衣服出来。灯光秀5分钟,声光电完美配合还是挺有意思的。因为只呆一个晚上,步行又去了看了晚上灯红酒绿的葡京酒店,往老葡京方向走,下穿地下通道,去到澳门永利(为了与永利皇宫区别开来,老城区叫澳门永利,美高梅也一样,这些同一名字的酒店都有大巴车往来的,可以乘坐。)澳门永利还是有看点的,门口有水火喷泉,里面还有富贵树和巨龙表演,不赶时间可以看一看。酒店里的富贵树和巨龙表演每半个小时一次,两个表演轮流上演,所以两个都想看到就得等等了。我没等多久正好看到富贵树,所以还要看龙就得再等30个小时。
今天暴走了一天,有点累了。简单逛了逛正好看到义顺牛奶,进去吃了一碗双皮奶,结束了今天的活动。
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澳门暴走第二天
住的酒店虽然不豪华,但是住得还是很舒服。没有睡懒觉的习惯,早早就醒了。今天的行程全部在老城区我的计划大清早去看大三巴牌坊和旁边的炮台,博物馆要10点才开,看不成了。然后去游走澳门老街看世界遗产历史城区。
出了酒店又走小街小巷,到达恋爱巷,大三巴也才7:30。今天天气很好,早上的空气也很清新,大三巴没有人山人海的游客,只有几个像有一样赶早的游客,很喜欢这样的感觉,清静,可以好好看,好好感受。旁边小山上就是炮台,上面有澳门博物馆。早上都是当地市民晨练的地方。有晨光,有白鸽,不远处的高楼大厦下,更多的是年代老旧的居民楼,有钱没钱都可以沐浴在这晨光中也算是某种意义上的“平等”吧!
大三巴下来一条街上全是商铺,肉圃,杏仁饼成了主角,时间尚早,很多商家还没有开门营业。又来到议事厅前地,马路对面是澳门市政署,沿着旁边的路向上走,一路上有很多漂亮的老建筑,不是澳门的世界遗产历史城区,老建筑特别多。一路走一路看,依次有何东图片馆,冈顶剧院,圣老楞佐教堂、亚婆井前地、郑家大院、港务局大楼。只是要当心路上的车和人,澳门的路真的太窄了。随便在路边找了家早餐点,吃了点东西。其实顺着路走就好,到达港务局大楼这里,明明从下去左捌就是妈祖阁我被自己坑了,可是我却绕了一个完整的包围圈才到,自己都觉得好笑,不过我也是轻装上阵,也还好,看到了好风景,只是多走了2公里路。最好的方法就是到达港务局大楼后往下走到路口左捌就可以看到妈祖阁,看完后返回到港务局大楼,上山。港务局大楼还办公场所,所以不要高声喧譁,沿山边栈道上去,都是富人区。沿街上去就是主教山教堂。9点到达,还没有开门,但可以在教堂外看参观,教堂正对着就是海上的澳门塔,风景很好。这条老城区走下来真的很有意思,即有中式的郑家大院,妈祖阁,又有西方的葡式建筑,教堂,看点很多。非常值得走走看看。
回酒店的路上,又吃了一些东西一点都不饿。我特别喜欢港式奶茶,不加糖,我都觉得好喝。每到一家餐饮都要点。重新回到酒店已经11点,洗个澡躺上一会就退房了。
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世界遗产澳门历史城区
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东望洋炮台、灯塔
前段时间中央一台放的电视剧《澳门人家》,董洁做为导游带着游客去的一个景点-东望洋炮台。下午我的主要目的地就是这了。
东望洋炮台始建于1622年,1637年扩建,因位于澳门半岛最高的东望洋山而得名。东望洋灯塔建于1865年,是远东最早的现代灯塔。
说说上去的感受吧,原来以为灯塔位于澳门半岛最高的地方,可能会比较累,但是对于我来说这个高度的山的确不算是山了,上山的路也很好走,只是有点坡度而以。总体来说并不难爬。去的路叫什么我实在记不住了。跟着导航就好,而且路边的指示牌也很清晰,很好找。如果真的不想爬这座小山也是有办法的,坐车到二龙喉公园,门口就有“史上最便宜的”松山登山缆车,单程2元(mop),双程3元,真的便宜,几分钟就可以到达山上,跟着指示牌走7、8分钟吧就可以看到灯塔了。山顶游客不多,山下是当地一个公园,好像还是澳门警察拉练的地方,看到他们正在跑步煅练。灯塔黄白相间,在蓝天的映衬下很漂亮。整个景点不大,但是视线真的很好,站在最高处俯瞰山下城市风光,葡京酒店永远是半岛的主角。上山前我也不知道在哪里坐缆车,在山上四周逛逛,正好看到指示牌,又不想原路返回正好坐缆车下山。所以都体验到了。下了缆车就是二龙喉公园大门,门口就有公交,看过很多游记都有提到“渔人码头”正好有车经过,就去看看吧!其实就是酒店的外围建筑,古罗马的建筑风格,说实在,没太大意思,只适合拍拍照,不知为什么这么多人说这里好玩。顺道去了附近金莲花广场回归的见证,正对着的小山就是刚才所在的东望洋灯塔,小巧的澳门,真的是可以用脚丈量的。逛完了,慢慢走回葡京酒店,在路上吃了本次最贵的一顿饭,111元(mop)只有一份烧腊饭和一杯奶茶。可能正好这是家名店吧,反正看到有当地人来打包。味道是可以的,只是也没感觉很特别。
来到新葡京,上二楼领乘车票,下到一楼路边排除坐车,等车的人很多,都是回关闸过关去珠海的。人多,不过葡京配的车也很多,所以也不会排太久的。回到珠海天还没有黑,突然有种很奇怪的感觉,明明两地相隔不远,但感觉就像两个时空一样。
订了明天一早珠海至广州南的城际火车。还是入住了之前的太空航,正好是周末价格比之前贵了10元。休息了一会,晚上沿着情侣路往口岸方向吹吹海风,对面的澳门与这边的珠海,白天从大楼的新旧就可以看出区别,但到了晚上就完全一样了。一个口岸隔开原来连在一起的土地,什么时候这个口岸可以退出历史舞台呢?
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广州一日游
广州虽说来过多次了,市内的景点差不多都已去过,春节才全家来过一次,这次安排在广州呆上一整天,最主要的原因是吃,虽说我不算吃货,但粤菜真的很喜欢。这次广州一日游就是逛吃,另外把上次没去成的广东省博物馆补上。
我选择坐上8点的城铁,离开珠海。想想我还会再来的,因为我已经喜欢上了澳门,从珠海去澳门太方便,说不定这个时间不会太久。9点就到了广州南,搭上地铁到达一德路,A出口就是当地干货批发一条街,不远处就是圣心石室大教堂,天气很好,又是一大早人少,顺路就看看吧!跟着导航顺利找到提前订好的青年旅社,一路上很多吃的,看着顺眼想吃的就一路吃起了。10点到的还担心太早,不能办入住,结果没有多说什么就办理了,说明昨天这个无窗单人房没人住。这个青年旅社是个老楼改的,有4层,楼梯还是木板的,很窄。在网点图片上看着还行,一进去就感觉里面乱七八槽的,养了好几只猫。进到房间就有股霉味,心想多人间说不定还会好点。如果还来广州肯定不会选择这里了,总结下来只有两个可以称赞的,价格便宜,出门就是街,但是离地铁站还是要走10多钟的。
放下行李,第一个目的地-广东省博物馆。不是节日,所以没有提前预约,顺利入馆。现在每个省的博物馆都修得很大,但最重要的是里面的内容。广东省博物馆,看过后我认为最重量级的还是上过《国家宝藏》的金漆木雕大神龛。博物馆旁边就是图书馆,对面是大剧院,CBD,这个区域突显了广州的高大尚之珠江新城。
坐公交搞不清地名,还是坐地铁吧,买了一张羊城地铁一日票20元,从入闸开始24小时无限次乘坐。接下就是各种坐地铁。来到西关老街,永庆坊逛逛,这里有个粤剧博物馆,改造的老街,李小龙祖屋也在这里,一并顺道都看看。总体来说这个永庆坊规模不大,看点不多。荔湾公园附近一带我认为最好一点。俗语说“食在广州,味在西关”。一路上老字号挺多的,我肚子有限,实在不能说是吃货。只能通过招牌来判断。一路吃了肠粉,双皮奶,白切鸡就已经吃不下了。华灯初上,回到花城广场,夜晚的CBD灯火辉煌,对面的小蛮腰格外惹眼,其实不登广州塔的话,在对面看小蛮腰视线更好,不用到塔底下人山人海的挤。这一天在无聊的逛吃中结束了。这一天吃了这么多,感觉没有吃到太满意的美味,可能是我自己不会选吧。
回程选择中午的动车,早上先去上下九宝华路吃了碗宝华面馆的鱼丸,然后步行去沙面闲逛。广州到贵阳的动车要4个多小时,比起原来已经大为改观了。晚上6点多顺利到家。
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2019年的旅途画上了句号,这一年走走看看,也去了几个地 方。但没有遇见“惊艳”到我的景点,2020年一切都是未知,同时也有太多不确定的东西。工作安排上的不确定性使得旅游的出行也变得不确定。总之希望一切向好吧!
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