拖拖拉拉快一年了，这是去年十一的时候去的，现在才开始写游记，有些记忆已经有些模糊了。以后还是要尽早写
。虽然已经快一年了，但是现在回想起来还是觉得这段经历很难忘。
先来说说风牙者榜(或峰牙己榜，有很多不同的翻译)国家公园（Phong Nha Ke Bang），国人可能很少听过这个名字，相比于越南南部的美奈等地方，它几乎可以算是默默无闻，但是实际上人家可是被联合国教科文组织评为的世界自然遗产。离越南首都河内五百多公里，距离同海市44公里。
由于交通不是特别便利，这个公园比较小众，基本不在国人的旅行列表中。但是这里却深受欧美人的喜爱，到处可见欧美游客，喜欢自然景观以及洞穴探险的童鞋们可以考虑把它加到你们的To-do list中去。
国内关于这个公园的游记少之又少，详细完整的游记基本找不到，我基本是通过TripAdvisor等国外网站拼凑的资讯。一方面是想避开十一出游高峰，另一方面骨子里喜欢猎奇和探险，也不知哪来的勇气带着老公公公婆婆一起踏上了小众之旅，结果嘞，这种形式的旅行实在不太适合老人家去，还好公公婆婆比较疼我，一家人毫无怨言地陪我虐自己
。下次还是只虐自己和虐老公吧，带爸爸妈妈们旅行还是适合躺着看看大海的那种形式。
关于签证
越南与中国有领土纷争，所以越南签证是不会贴在我们的护照上的，是一张单独的纸。我们是找淘宝办的，印象中除了照片也没提供什么资料，非常好办，完全不用费心。
关于交通
1. 南宁-河内 国际火车
我们是从南宁乘坐跨国火车到河内, 215一张，软卧，也是找淘宝帮忙买的，因为国际火车的票每天只卖四十几张，我们又是节假日出行，所以需要提前买。淘宝代买每张加三十左右。南宁下午六点二十出发，早上五点不到到达河内嘉林火车站。你们可能觉得软卧睡一晚就到了没什么，事实上是半夜要被拉起来两次，办理出境入境， 还要带着所有行李下去安检😂😂，每次都是才睡一两个小时拉起来，再睡一两个小时再被拉起来
困
。
这里说一下入境的时候，越南海关会要一个个卡要小费，我当时很困正处于迷糊状态，装着没听懂的样子，跟他四目对视了一会儿，然后他就放弃了，盖了章😂。建议大家团结一致，坚决不给，不能助长了他们这种厚脸皮的不良行为。
2. 河内- 同海（Dong Hoi） 飞机
我是在越南航空官网订的round trip，
具体价格记不得了，只记得很便宜。要多看看多比较一下，每天甚至每时刻价格都不一样，花点时间你会找到价效比很高的票。这个小飞机坐的我也是印象深刻啊，颠簸的嘞，吓得小心脏扑通扑通的。
3. 订的酒店接机（说是酒店其实是farmstay），再通过酒店预定的行程。后面会详细说。
关于住宿
我们住的是phong nha farmstay. 通过官网找到的邮箱，发邮件预定。 我还问了很多问题，比如天气怎么样，行程怎么样，怎么去等等，稍后我会把邮件附上供大家参考。
关于行程
Farmstay有个小本本，上面全是行程介绍。大家可以去了以后根据自己的需求再订。附上照片给大家参考。
我们由于时间有限，就住了三晚。第一晚主要是沟通行程和享受了乡村慢生活， 晚上会有菲律宾的歌手驻唱，坐在沙发上，看着星星，听着歌还是很惬意的。
第二天风芽洞和乡村骑行
phong nha cave是自助行程，酒店没有行程安排，但是有攻略，如上图。farmstay提供免费的自行车， 可以把自行车停在easy tiger, 步行到phong nha买票。15000越南盾一张票，一搜船是360000越南盾，可以在门口找人拼船，划算点。
入口，进去后找售票视窗买票
风芽洞是溼洞，需要坐船进去
如果不是雨季的话，可以选择另一条线路，深入风芽洞，售票口有介绍，感觉更有意思
。
从洞出来，吃了顿印度菜，还挺好吃，人均在五十左右。吃完午饭以后，就开始骑行
。因为是雨季，道路很泥泞，骑车技术不好的容易摔跤，我是不会告诉你除了我，另外三个人都摔了。空气清新，环境很天然，我们总共骑了大概二十公里吧，三分之二都是泥巴路，虐自己虐的好爽，虐完看到的风景更美。
Duck shop
wild boar eco farm
回程的时候有点晚了，都是山路没有灯，差点没回得去。感谢谷歌地图，带我们回到了farmstay.
第三天的行程
早上去了天堂洞，8ladies洞。
天堂洞路线图，我们这次只走了前面已经开发了的短短一段。好想深入进去看看
天堂洞。跟桂林差不多
8ladies cave. 穿着需要超过膝盖，如果不到，在门口有毯子，需要裹着。附上一只裹着毯子有点辣眼睛的老腊肉
下午的行程是highlight–Tra ang cave. 首先在大雨中穿过了一段热带雨林，有些地方有大于六十度的坡度，道路很泥泞;再趟过几条小溪，因为是雨季，有些地方水流十分湍急;洞里全程游泳，靠安全帽上的探照灯给光，水温大概十几度，水深在五六米，进洞的时候是逆流我基本是被拉进去的。虽然没有防水相机比较可惜，但是照片真的没法显示它的美，最后一张是偷的网上的图，是旱季时的样子，更美。
喜欢冒险的朋友们，别错过这个地方，最好选择旱季去，可以选择的洞比较多。
导游说我们是他见过的来这旅游的第一个中国家庭
，我也希望这篇游记能帮到大家。总的来说，这里很清净，人很少，对身体素质有一定的要求，适合喜欢猎奇喜欢探险的朋友们。
与farmstay的邮件参考
Please take the time to read the following information before booking with us.
Australian Ben and his wife Le Thi Bich had an epiphany to start a tourism business in the middle of nowhere, and her family and the rest of the community thought that they were mad. “Who would come and stay in the middle of some rice paddies, nobody comes here, we never see any westerners, you’re wasting your money and your time!” Now half of them think that it was their idea. Bich’s family were half right; the area didn’t get any foreign tourists, but Ben and Bich believed that if people knew about it, then the area could prosper. So from housing people in hammocks at their home to personally designing and building the Farmstay, they set out to put Phong Nha on the map. Their goal was to create what they would want if they were on holiday in this then remote and still beautiful region of northern central Vietnam – Comfortable beds, nice views, a swimming pool, full bar, tasty food and top quality tours/activities.
Phong Nha Farmstay is a very unique experience, loved by many and misunderstood by a few. We are a lively, fun and relaxing guest house, an island of modern western comforts in a rural setting. Our extended family do have farmland where they grow rice, peanuts, bananas, sweetcorn, cassava, pepper and more, and much of it is served to our guests, but we are not a working farm. Our guests are a very mixed bunch, which is why we like them so much; we get families, the more mature travellers, young couples, and solo travellers. People from all over the world have stayed with us since we opened in 2010, and many have become great friends as they explored the area and chatted over dinner together afterwards. Our staff are relaxed, young at heart, passionate about Vietnam- it’s people, culture and landscape – and proudly work hard to give you the best stay we can. We are not a cheap budget travel option like you can find in the more touristy parts of Vietnam; we are deep in the rural countryside still untouched by the negative effects of mass tourism, and it can be a bit more difficult and a little more expensive to get here than to more touristy spots. We recommend that you come for a minimum of 3 days to get the best out of your stay and to truly get a feel for the area. Because of this, we now only accept bookings with a minimum of two consecutive nights, and highly recommend you stay for three or more. Please believe us, we have so many people regret not booking for longer, as the area around us is simply outstanding, a unique place in Vietnam that is filled with opportunities to explore and hike; to relax; to try delicious local food; to cycle, swim, zipline and kayak; to capture amazing photographs; to really feel like you are in real Vietnam. All of us here at the Farmstay love this area dearly, it is why we stayed, and many of our guests leave with the same feelings, and with a sadness at having to move on.
We became successful because of the experience and service that we offer, not because of the standard of our linen or the luxuries in our rooms. Our rooms are clean, simple and ideal for sleeping after a fantastic day in the caves, but do not expect cable TV in your room, monogrammed stationary or room service. If you are looking for a lot of creature comforts in your room, lots of privacy, long lie-ins etc, we are probably not the place for you. We are in a small village that we now call Farmstay Village, surrounded by farmland, and on a daily basis water buffalo, dogs, cows, ducks, chickens and farmers all go past our place, normally making some noise or other. If you think this may be an issue, please reconsider visiting us. We are loved by those who want to socialise and explore, not as much by those who expect 5* accommodation and the atmosphere that comes with traditional hotels. Our room prices are not just for the room, but for the whole “Farmstay Experience”, and we believe that if you come here with an open and adventurous mind, you will leave knowing that it was money well spent! If, after reading this, you believe that we will not be your ‘cup of tea’, please feel free to contact us, we will happily recommend other places to stay that will be more to your liking, and we can offer great advice on getting the most out of your stay in the area.
This information package contains the following information:
General Important Information
Information on our rooms, food and getting around
Information on the caves and our tours
Other things to do in the area
Options for getting to Phong Nha, including the cost of transfers.
General Important Information:
Malaria & Dengue: As far as we are aware, this is NOT a malaria area, none of our staff takes anti-malarial tablets (although we do drink a lot of gin & tonic!) Though we haven’t seen any in the Phong Nha area, Dengue Fever is not unknown in Vietnam, so we do recommend bringing and wearing insect repellent.
Paying for your visit: There is a new ATM in Phong Nha Village (8km away from the Farmstay) but it can occasionally be unreliable, especially when there is a power failure. We recommend arriving in Phong Nha with sufficient cash for your stay. We accept Visa & MasterCard (3% surcharge on any transaction), but NOT Maestro or American Express. We also accept Vietnamese Dong (VND), American Dollars( 20,000VND=$1), Australian Dollars and the occasional live music performance! We can also accept payment into our Australian Bank Account if you have an account in Australia.
Passports: We are required by the local police to keep hold of your passports during your stay here. We keep them securely locked in a safe, and ask for your understanding in this matter.
Dress code: This area is still new to tourism, has been one the poorest regions of Vietnam, and the people are quite traditional in their ways and in their thinking. Please dress modestly when cycling or walking around the area. Bring your swimmers though, as we do have a pool!
Giving money: If any local people ask for money, please say NO!
Weather: If you are visiting between October and March, BRING WARM CLOTHES and good rain gear. Every year people arrive on our doorstep with inadequate clothing, unaware that it gets cold in Vietnam. It does get cold here, and between September and November it is traditionally very wet. There is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing!
Phong Nha Farmstay
Rooms
We are usually very busy and we recommend booking well in advance to get the room you want. All rooms are en-suite and have air conditioning and a small fridge.
Double & single rooms have one queen sized bed and can accommodate a maximum of 2 people.
Twin rooms have two large single beds and can accommodate a maximum of 2 people.
Our poolside Family room has a double bed and a double bunk (2 singles in bunk configuration) and can accommodate up to 4 people. There is also a TV and DVD player for watching DVDs.
Large family rooms have a double bed and bunks and can accommodate 5-6 people depending on the room. Ideal for groups or families, there is also a TV and DVD player for watching DVDs.
Our room rates include breakfast, free bicycle hire, water in the room, any extra annoying taxes and charges you often find, a pool (not in the room!), stunning sunsets, an outdoor cinema, live music every second night, and some really helpful friendly staff to talk to. We can supply smiles at our end, but you have to bring your own!
Downstairs and poolside doubles or twins are 910,000 vnd per room per night.
Single downstairs is 750,000VND per room per night (it has a double bed in it that can fit for 2 people but the room is slightly smaller than the other rooms).
Upstairs doubles or twin are 1,170,000 vnd per room per night.
Single upstairs is 910,000VND per room per night (it has a double bed in it that can fit for 2 people but the room is slightly smaller than the other rooms).
Poolside family room is 1,300,000 vnd per night
Larger Family rooms are 1,950,000 vnd per room per night.
Farmstay Village Villa
It is owned by 7 of the local Phong Nha Farmstay staff members. They set it up with a little help from the Farmstay, but it is operated by the 7 staff of the Farmstay that own it. The staff are all part of the team at the Farmstay, and the Farmstay Village Villas incorporates the same type of quality atmosphere that made the Phong Nha Farmstay and the area famous.
When staying at Farmstay Village Villa you are free to use the amenities at Phong Nha Farmstay which is located just 200m away in the Farmstay Village. The facilities include a swimming pool, nightly entertainment (live music and outdoor movie theatre) full restaurant and bar facilities, weights gym equipment, tour and activity options, loads of information about the area, transport to and from the area and much more.
The price includes breakfast, sitting area, bicycle hire, a welcome drink at the Phong Nha Farmstay and bottled drinking water each day. There are three double rooms at Farmstay Village Villas, so you can book a room at the Villa for or you can rent the entire 3 bedroom Villa as a group for 3,000,000vnd per night.
Website: //www.phongnhavillagevillas.com/
Rooms:
A double queen bed room downstairs with en-suite indoor bathroom, air conditioned at 1,000,000vnd/night that can add an extra bed at 200,000VND
A double queen bed room downstairs with en-suite indoor bathroom, air conditioned at 1,000,000vnd/night that can add an extra mattress at 200,000VND
A double queen bed room upstairs with en-suite outdoor bathroom, air conditioned at 1,000,000vnd/night
The Farmstay Village Villa can be booked by emailing us and you will check in at the Farmstay when you arrive.
Victory Road Villas
The Victory Road Villas, which just opened (July 2017), is located in the main street of Phong Nha village, in front of the Song Son river (leading of a small luxurious retreat in Phong Nha) with exceptional facilities and services with standards of five-star hotel.
All of the Victory Road Villas have en-suite bathrooms, are air conditioned and have entertainment systems, high speed Wi-Fi access and king size beds and kitchen.
The Song Son Penthouse offers sweeping views of the Son River and the local village from the balcony and a Jacuzzi. A Kitchen Balcony that overlooks our private garden and swimming pool view allows the guest to appreciate the views in all directions.
The Victory and Family villas are complemented by private large terraces, swimming pool views and direct access to the beer garden, restaurant and barbecue area, allowing you to relax in total privacy and ensuring a perfect setting to settle back and enjoy your stay. Each Villa has a courtyard bath.
Our 7 stylish villas are tastefully designed and decorated with a perfect blend between the Vietnamese lifestyle architecture and Heritage influenced theme, to ensure the most comfortable and enjoyable stay. Each room is outfitted with 01 Double king size Bed and convertible sofa in the living room area (can accommodate one extra person) Also extra bed available on request. All villas are with an open-concept bathroom, including a rainfall shower and a bathtub. Amenities include (but are not limited to) each room had 170 liter mega bar , telephone, flat-screen, satellite LCD TV with international channels, bathrobes, slippers, hairdryers, window and balcony with panoramic view .
Rooms (these rates are valid from 15th July til 30th October 2017):
Victory villas have one king sized bed and can accommodate a maximum of 4 people, available at 1,680,000VND (if extra convertible sofa, add 420,000VND or 750,000VND for extra single bed)
Family villas have one king sized bed, an extra outdoor bathroom and can accommodate a maximum of 4 people, available at 1,930,000VND (if extra convertible sofa, add 420,000VND, or 750,000VND for extra single bed)
3 Bedroom Penthouse Villa has 3 king sized beds and has the option for 3 sofa beds and thus can accommodate a maximum of 9 adults, available at for 11,500,000VND the whole villa regardless of number of people sharing
Rooms (these rates are valid from 1st November 2017 til 31st December 2018):
Victory Villas have one king sized bed and can accommodate a maximum of 3 adults, available at 2,040,000VND based on 2 people sharing (if extra convertible sofa – add 420,000VND or 750,000VND for extra single bed)
Family Villas have one king sized bed, an extra outdoor bathroom and can accommodate a maximum of 3 adults, available at 2,340,000VND based on 2 people sharing (if extra convertible sofa – add 420,000VND or 750,000VND for extra single bed)
3 Bedroom Penthouse Villa has 3 king sized beds and has the option for 3 sofa beds and thus can accommodate a maximum of 9 adults, available at for 11,500,000VND the whole villa regardless of number of people sharing
You can enquire room bookings through us here or directly [email protected]
Website: www.victoryroadvillas.com
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