台湾,那些年精神食粮的来源,保留了中华民族传统文化的宝岛,2018年的10月,带着一只眼睛的摄影师走台北 → 台中 →日月潭→高雄 →垦丁 → 花莲 → 宜兰→九份 → 台北的路线去环了个岛。
行程
Day 1抵达台北
Day 2台北:中正纪念堂、总统府、国父纪念馆、101
Day 3台北:台北故宫博物院、西门町、西门红楼、宁夏夜市
Day 4台北:淡水、渔人码头
Day 5台中:勤美术馆、台中美术馆、东海大学、宫原眼科
Day 6南投:日月潭
Day 7南投:日月潭台中:彩虹眷村
Day 8高雄:驳二艺术特区、打狗铁道故事馆、打狗英国领事馆、西子湾风景区
Day 9垦丁
Day 10 垦丁
Day 11 垦丁-花莲
Day 12 花莲:出海赏鲸豚 七星潭
Day 13 花莲:花东纵谷线
Day 14 花莲:清水断崖、太鲁阁
宜兰:几米广场
Day 15 平溪线 九份
Day 16 九份台北上海
D1 抵达台北
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B1办好悠游卡,坐捷运直达车35分钟就到台北车站了
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酒店附近有一家金峰卤肉饭,先过过瘾
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D2 中正纪念堂- 总统府-国父纪念馆-101
酒店离中正纪念堂很近
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从大孝门进入
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中正纪念堂是为纪念蒋介石而修建,1976年破土,1980年完工,由纪念堂、两厅院、自由广场牌楼组成。
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纪念堂的设计独具匠心,外表以蓝白两色为主,象征自由平等之青天白日色调。纪念堂的方形格局,寓意蒋公名字里的“中正”。中正纪念堂屋顶呈八角形设计,是仿效北京天坛的八角攒尖琉璃瓦顶,代表人间八德,隐藏其间的人形,则象征著中华传统文化的天人合一。
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每到整点时间有仪仗队卫兵的交接仪式,大概这些士兵刚刚交接完。
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纪念堂内的蒋公铜像面东朝西而坐,永远在遥望着大陆。
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中正纪念堂前的花岗岩石阶共有84级台阶,加上大厅阶梯的5级,一共89阶,寓意蒋公享年89岁。
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你所未见的台北嘉年华
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广场上还有国家两厅院之国家音乐厅和国家戏剧院 。
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位于中山南路上的正牌楼上,写有“自由广场”四个大字,是2007年陈水扁当政时,将牌楼上原有的“大中至正”四字修改得来,并把中正纪念堂改为台湾民主纪念馆。马英九上台后,中正纪念堂于2009年复名,但外面的自由广场牌匾仍然保留。
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自由广场门口好多宣传员,后来在很多景点都见到了,看到游客就拉着宣讲。
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中正纪念堂离总统府很近,走的累了想打车都打不到。路边车很少,更是看不到计程车。马路上人也很少,想问个路都找不到人。和我们这边的车水马龙喧闹拥挤形成鲜明对比。
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路过介寿公园
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台北总统府位于重庆南路一段122号,是日据时期所建,1919年完工,为巴洛克式建筑。
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总统府今天不开放参观,打个卡就去永康街吃饭咯。
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大名鼎鼎的永康牛肉面。
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对面是个学校
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永康街周围有很多好吃的店
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想起那个庭院深深的年代
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溜达到青田七六
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青田七六为1931年由足立仁教授所兴建的居所,整栋建筑主要用桧木建成,整栋建筑融合了日式及洋式建筑优点。
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1945年,中国地质科学的重要先驱者马廷英来到台湾,入住青田街七巷六号,后任台湾大学地质系主任。
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打车去国父纪念馆
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在国父纪念馆外的广场就能看到台北 101
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国父纪念馆是为纪念孙中山先生百年诞辰而建,于1972年5月16日落成启用。国父纪念馆本体建筑为唐朝风格,线条简炼,曾获美国教育部“最佳建筑奖”奖励。该本体建筑未完全仿古,例如以小梁取代簷椽,屋顶使用釉面取代传统瓦顶。
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国父纪念馆高30米,每边长100米,由每边14支灰色大柱顶起翘角像大鹏展翼的黄色大屋顶。
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入口大厅的国父铜像,基座刻有孙中山先生以毛笔亲自书写的《礼记·礼运·大同》篇。
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每逢整点有三军仪仗队交接仪式。
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101大楼位于台北市信义区,是台北最显眼的地标性建筑,曾经六年蝉联“世界第一高楼”称号。今天云雾缭绕,就免了象山登高望远之雅兴了。
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继续体会台北闹市的清净
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一路往101的方向走去。
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来诚品书店打个卡
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在101大楼斜对面,以几米绘本《月亮忘记了》主题打造的月亮公车,希望在忙碌的都市生活中,别忘了自己的初衷。
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台北的地铁里都有储物柜,很方便。
台北车站像迷宫一样,换乘问了很多人才找到路,地铁里人超多。原来地上看不到的人都到了地下
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D3 故宫博物院
台北故宫博物院:位于山清水秀的外双溪,占地面积1200亩,1965年11月12日落成。整座建筑的设计理念秉承了中国宫廷式的建筑风格,碧瓦黄墙,雕栏玉砌,在青山掩映下,显得典雅而壮丽。这里珍藏着1948年以来从大陆运来的65万件珍贵文物, 素有“北京故宫看建筑,台北故宫看文物”的说法。由于台北故宫博物院受展厅面积所限,通常每3个月会换一次展品,即便这样,要把这里所藏稀世文物逐个儿在世人面前亮个相,至少需要30年时间。
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台北故宫博物院是由两个正馆展区、两个户外园区(至善园和至德园)、天下为公牌坊和张大千纪念馆组成。
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那些让我流连忘返的宝贝们
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三楼主要为玉器和青铜器,闻名遐迩的镇馆三宝,“猪肉白菜锅”- 东坡肉形石、翠玉白菜和毛公鼎就在这里。
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精巧绝伦的东坡肉形石
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栩栩如生的翠玉白菜
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毛公鼎是迄今为止镌刻铭文最多的重器,珍贵程度世所罕见。
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回城路过士林官邸,到此一游
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士林官邸位于台北市士林区福林路,环境清幽,三面环山,山清水秀。
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和蒋夫人的座驾合个影
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蒋夫人的玫瑰园
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回到闹市
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西门红楼位于台北市万华区的成都路上,紧邻西门町。这栋两层高的三级古蹟红砖洋楼为1908年所建,该古蹟建筑最独特之处,是其外观为每正立面8米,因此于日治时期通常被称为八角堂。
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西门町位于台北市万华区成都路、康定路、汉口街和中华路所构成的街区,为台北市西区最重要的消费商圈。因为位于台北城的西门外,因此得名。在1980年代以前,西门町为长期代表台北最繁华的娱乐流行圣地,武昌街二段更是其中最精华的路段。1980-2000年间,台北市逐渐向东发展,西门町的商圈地位渐衰。
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阿宗面线,生意真好,可惜吃不惯
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宁夏夜市逛逛吃吃
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D4 淡水
微风细雨中,坐着捷运去淡水
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淡水,是一条位于台湾北部河流的名字,也是台湾唯一曾可通航的河道。是一个从繁华到静谧的河口小镇,历史悠久,有渔人码头的落日和满是古蹟建筑的真理街老街。
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小白宫:位于真理街15号,建于1870年,是前清淡水关税务司官邸的别称。现在,这座红瓦白墙的西班牙式小洋楼已化身为一间回顾淡水历史的展览馆。
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小白宫是一栋西班牙白垩回廊式建筑,小白宫内门窗的位置均与回廊拱圈相呼应,采光性及通风性良好,更方便由室内观赏室外景色。
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这里可眺望到淡水河出海口和对岸的观音山。
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淡江高阶中学:周杰伦母校。
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沿这条小巷继续向上
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真理大学:是一所台湾基督长老教会在台湾北部创办的私立大学,其中最引人注目的是牛津学堂和大礼拜堂。
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大礼拜堂为哥特式礼堂,用于举办毕业典礼和各式大型活动,礼堂内部有一座由纯手工打造的管风琴。
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牛津学堂是闽式红砖屋与欧式拱窗的完美结合。
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从这条小道可以走到红毛城。
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红毛城是西班牙人在300多年前建造的红砖堡垒。
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300多年的历史让淡水红毛城成为台湾现存最古老,最具历史意义的建筑之一,也是台湾一级古蹟。
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俯瞰淡水湾
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“最美的不是下雨天,是曾与你躲过雨的屋簷”
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今天下雨,无法欣赏夕阳了,打道回府吧
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回到市里,遇到了闻名已久的垃圾车
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带上台铁便当,坐着台铁去台中
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D5 台中美术馆-东海大学-宫原眼科
台中旅游的大福利,公车免费坐
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勤美术馆是一个“街区博物馆”,是一个户外装置艺术空间,每隔一段时间会进行不同主题的装置艺术展览。
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比台北更空荡
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漫步草悟道
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仿佛包场了
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来到台中美术馆
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台中美术馆,又名台湾美术馆,是台湾最重要的美术馆之一,这里常年会有很多艺术展展出,除了美术馆内的各大展区以外,美术馆外也有雕塑公园。
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在这里偶遇一个正在扫落叶的大爷,脸上那种平静满足的笑容,让我想起人的最高境界,天真。
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随处可见的选举广告
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继续公交车
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台中歌剧院:伊东丰雄用了十年完成的作品,以“洞穴”为主题,又被称为美声涵洞。由58面曲墙组成的无柱无墙的流动空间造就了作为歌剧院必备的良好的回声条件。
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步行至附近的新光三越,吃个正宗的鼎泰丰
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继续公交车去东海大学
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东海大学是台湾一所基督教背景的综合大学,也是台湾第一所私立大学,素有“台湾最美大学”的美誉。
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像是走进了森林公园
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东海大学校园的风格是极简型,建筑使用的材料都是不加修饰的颜色,由灰瓦、砖墙、白墙、清水混凝土与各种树木构成一个简洁的校园景观。
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园内的路思义教堂是东海大学的象征,是一座基督教礼拜堂,为著名的建筑师贝聿铭和陈其宽之作。
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教堂由四片双曲面组成,四面各自分离,中间以玻璃边窗连线。从外观看,像一双虔诚祈祷的手。
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校园内还有自己的牧场,可以在牛乳小栈喝到新鲜的牛奶!
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在东海大学食堂吃好晚饭回到城里。
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宫原武雄于1927年开设了眼科诊所,他回国后留下了这座建筑。2010年修整成具有巴洛克风格的甜品店,外观保留了宫原眼科的结构与拱状式骑楼。
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祝君天天年轻
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D6 日月潭
台中酒店附近就有台湾好行日月潭线的发车点。
坐上大巴到日月潭已经是中午时分,吃个午饭休息一下,上船游日月潭咯。
日月潭有水社码头、伊达邵码头及玄光码头三处游船码头,可选择顺向或者逆向两条航线在三个码头间回圈航行。
我们从水社码头出发。
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第一站: 玄光寺码头。
日月潭最著名的“阿婆茶叶蛋”和刻有“日月潭”的石头都位于此。
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一群人抢著在这里留念
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从水社码头出发到达玄光寺码头之前会经过拉鲁岛。以拉鲁岛为界,日月潭分为日潭和月潭。背后的小岛便是拉鲁岛了。
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日月潭是台湾最大的淡水天然湖湖泊。
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提前看好台湾好行巴士时刻表,赶到玄光寺巴士站,坐巴士去慈恩塔。
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下了公车还要爬一段山路
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路上遇到本地人,温柔的鼓励我们“加油”。
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慈恩塔是蒋介石于1971年为了纪念母亲王太夫人所建,仿辽宋古塔式样八角宝塔。该塔建在海拔955米的青龙山顶上,塔高9层、高约45米,塔顶正好是海拔1000米。
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慈恩塔位于日月潭最高点,居高临下,可以俯瞰整个日月潭。
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台湾有过众多版本的“台湾N景”评选,皆有不同程度出入,唯日月潭这一湾宝岛名湖从不曾跌出榜单。日月潭孕育了台湾的原住民文化,因此成为了台湾人心中无法抹去的标志性的自然景观。
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从慈恩塔下来,坐台湾好行巴士去伊达邵码头。
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最后一班船回水社码头
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傍晚时分在湖边悠闲的漫步,体验宁静之美。
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D7 日月潭-彩虹眷村
抱着看日出的心态,摸黑起床,去看看宁静的日月潭。
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从水社游客中心到向山游客中心的向山段车道非常平缓,长度约3.4公里,非常适合骑行。
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秋高气爽,骑车去
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骑自行车比坐船有意思多了。
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我在日月潭骑行的乐趣,还有租车行可爱的老板娘和她可爱的鹦鹉们。
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坐台湾好行的专线车回到台中高铁站,把行李寄存在这里去彩虹眷村。
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彩虹眷村:台中市南屯区春安路56巷,退伍老兵黄永阜用画笔刷出了色彩斑斓的童话世界。
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带上吴宝春和高铁便当,去高雄啦
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台铁便当真的是又便宜又好吃,良心便当
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美丽岛捷运站光之穹顶:传达了“爱与包容”的精神,被美国旅游网站BootsnAll评选为“2012年最美地铁站”第二名。由义大利艺术家水仙大师(Narcissus Quagliata)亲手打造,由四千五百片玻璃组合而成,是世界最大的一体成型单件玻璃公共艺术作品,也是世界最大玻璃镶嵌艺术钜作,由德国百年Derix手工玻璃工作坊制作,历时四年半,直径达30米,面积为660平方米。美丽岛捷运站名字来源于台湾前称,16世纪荷兰据台时期,台湾曾被称为福尔摩沙,意思是“美丽之岛”。这座光之穹顶上的各个人体交相呼应,所传达的“包容”精神,更展现作品“水”、“土”、“光”、“火”四大区块的意涵,呈现出人在世界里,从诞生、成长、荣耀到毁灭,而后重生的轮回过程。
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凝望穹顶时,找到一个做梦的地方。
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穿过六合夜市
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D8 驳二艺术区-打狗英国领事馆-西子湾-垦丁
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从盐埕埔站地铁站出来,步行前往驳二艺术特区
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沿途不少街道都采用骑楼风格的建筑形式,街面是用立柱形成甬道,留下人行通道。
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驳二艺术特区的名字来源于原来驳船码头的编号,高雄港第三船渠内的第二号接驳码头。
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远处最高的建筑就是高雄85大楼了,是目前高雄最高的建筑,也是台湾第二高建筑,地上85层,地下5层。
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高雄港是世界集装箱运输的大港之一,曾长期位居世界货柜吞吐量第三大港,目前排名退居第六。
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高雄港规模巨大,远处外海有大量货运轮船停靠。
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坐计程车去吃牛肉面,司机不断抱怨游客越来越少收入不如以前(那是2018年,他都如此难混生计了,现在自由行停了,也不知道他过的好不好)
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慕名而来
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打狗英国领事馆(打狗为高雄的旧称)是清朝时期外国人在台湾建造的第一个领事馆,西临台湾海峡,可以俯瞰高雄市区和港口。
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小小的二层楼建筑,白色的格子窗,砖红色的墙,迂回宽敞的长廊,配着绿色的草坪,英伦风十足。
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遥望西子湾
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我在高雄的日子
拼车去垦丁,司机真的是飞一样的开到了垦丁
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一下车就感受到了垦丁的热情
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D9 垦丁西线
垦丁派出所出发,乘坐垦丁街车玩西线。
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第一站:南湾
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南湾因海水清澈透蓝又被称为“蓝湾”。沙滩长约600公尺,是垦丁国家公园宽阔的沙滩,早年以“金沙白浪”被列为恒春八景之一。
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要提前看好时刻表,等车中~
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到后壁湖吃个饭
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后壁湖有着恒春最大的渔港以及最大的游艇码头,可供120艘游艇泊靠。每年4~7月以旗鱼、雨伞鱼、鬼头刀、10月至翌年3月以黑皮剑旗鱼、白皮鱼获量最丰。
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第三站:猫鼻头
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猫鼻头公园,位于台湾岛南端的西侧岬角,为台湾海峡与巴士海峡(台湾岛至菲律宾吕宋岛之间的海域)的分界点,与鹅銮鼻分别为台湾岛最南端突出为巴士海峡的两个岬角,由于有一块自海崖崩落的礁岩,外形像一只猫,故而得名“猫鼻头”。猫鼻头是典型的珊瑚礁海岸侵蚀的地形,面对迎风面造成海蚀作用旺盛,因此这里处处是崩崖、海蚀礁柱、海蚀沟、海蚀洞地貌。
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第四站:白沙湾
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白沙湾位于垦丁公园西海岸,属于珊瑚礁海岸,《海角七号》、《那些年》、《少年派》等多部电影在此取景。白沙湾海水的蓝,海水的清,异常的美。
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回到热闹的垦丁大街。
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D10 垦丁东线~吹吹太平洋的海风
在垦丁大街康是美药妆店门口的华哥租车租上电动车,完成了电动车速成课程,兜风去啦。
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第一站:船帆石
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船帆石为附近台地所滚落下来的巨型珊瑚礁岩。远看像扬帆进港的船帆,因而得名。石头上长满了野草花卉与灌木,成为鸟群栖息的窝巢。近看则像美国前总统尼克松头部,令人发笑。
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好象是看到了鲸鱼呢
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除了在观景台欣赏海景,也可以步行100米到旁边礁石潭捡珊瑚呢。
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第三站:砂岛
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砂岛沙滩长约220公尺,因细沙堆积如岛而得名。其主要由贝壳、珊瑚碎屑与有孔虫经长年沉积而形成,由于附近没有溪流携带沙粒或杂质流入,因此贝壳砂的含量高达97%以上,位居垦丁所有沙滩之冠。这里有美丽的贝壳砂,为了保护贝壳沙滩,已经封闭起来。
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砂岛的这片海,是台湾海峡。
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在海岸边,想起余光中的“乡愁是一湾浅浅的海峡,我在这头,大陆在那头”。
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第四站:鹅銮鼻公园
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鹅銮鼻公园位于台湾最南端,为台湾八景之一。鹅銮鼻灯塔公园。名字里虽然有鹅,但其实跟鹅并没关系,鹅銮鼻是当地少数民族排湾族的语言,是“帆”的译音,因附近的香蕉湾有像帆船一样的石头,又加上这地形像是突出的鼻子,遂取鹅銮鼻为名。这里的灯塔就叫“鹅銮鼻灯塔”。
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鹅銮鼻公园的白色灯塔,是台湾最南端的灯塔,也是台湾光力最强的灯塔。
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鹅銮鼻灯塔如果从塔脚开始算有21.5米高,按照海平面来计算有45米高,是最高的灯塔。灯塔里有180万烛光,相当于180万根蜡烛的光,能照射30公里,被称为“东亚之光”。
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第五站:驶向最南点
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台湾最南点,立于东经120度50分0秒、北纬21度53分59秒,介于鹅銮鼻公园与龙坑生态护区之间,是标示台湾本岛陆地最南点的一个水泥制标志。
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吹着太平洋的风,终于在落日前赶到了龙磐公园。
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龙磐公园位于鹅銮鼻与风吹沙之间。可从陡峭的崩崖远眺曲折有致的海岸,此区域属于上升的石灰岩台地,由于石灰岩容易被水溶蚀,因此区内有石灰岩洞、渗穴、崩崖、红土等地形景观。
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太平洋的风一直在吹
舞影婆娑 在辽阔无际的海洋
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一日的环岛一切几乎都和海有关,蓝天,绿草,白云,拥抱此刻的温柔,知足眼前的纯真。
D11 垦丁- 花莲
早上起来,终于放晴,在垦丁的两日都是阴天
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走到民宿对面的海滩,恋恋不舍
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这里就是我们住的民宿,价效比超高
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我在垦丁的日子
垦丁到花莲可以走海线,也可以走山线。我们走的山线,多良车站-伯朗大道-北回归线标志-瑞穗牧场-花莲。
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多良火车站:南回线规划时,因泷溪至金仑区间较长,选择在多良兴建车站供单线列车交会,站址原本为山坡地,两端均为隧道,南回铁路工程处特别将车站以高架设计,站在月台即可鸟瞰太平洋,号称“台湾最美车站”。
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蔚蓝的海平面,栅栏,青山,铁轨,有一种漫画式的唯美。
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路过太麻里,这里盛产释迦,当时的我还不认识释迦,可惜了
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池上火车站两条街外便是池上饭包博物馆,叫上一份池上便当,在怀旧的火车车厢里慢慢感受几十年前的热门盒饭。
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池上最出名的有三样东西,池上便当、伯朗大道、池上米,源头都是池上的稻田。真想背上几包回去。
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池上便当因为使用晶莹软糯的池上米而特别有名。
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台湾的米真好吃啊,无论贵贱,都好好吃。。。
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吃好池上米,来到伯朗大道。
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伯朗大道是池上乡的一条田园公路,因金城武在这里拍摄“伯朗咖啡”广告而广为人知。
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伯朗大道迷人之处在于广阔的稻田景致,稻穗随风摇曳,有如海浪扑面般的“稻浪”景致,疗愈系美景,一见倾心。
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北回归线横穿台湾岛,在花莲、嘉义、澎湖都有很多的北回归线标志景点。北回归线是太阳在北半球能够垂直射到的离赤道最远的位置点,将这些点连起来的假想线便叫“北回归线”。
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瑞穗牧场现址原是一大片的木瓜田,每当台风过后,辛苦种植的木瓜常落得全数泡汤的下场。现在靠着源自中央山脉的洁净水源灌溉,瑞穗牧场种植出一片油亮碧绿的鲜美牧草,饲养著300多头壮硕健康的荷兰品种乳牛。近10年来,靠着统一瑞穗鲜乳的广告,瑞穗牧场的名声也越来越响亮。这里的牛轧糖非常出名,吃吃冰淇淋,喂喂奶牛和鸵鸟,非常惬意。
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离开瑞穗牧场,驶向花莲。花莲市位于花莲县的中北部沿海,地处台东纵谷北端,地势枕山面海,东临太平洋,是花莲县的行政、经济、文化中心,也是台湾东部最重要的城市。花莲市原名“崎莱”,为阿美人对当地的称呼,汉族移民称之为“洄澜”,是因为花莲溪入海口处与海浪激荡,迂回澎湃,故称洄澜。清同治年间,以其谐音改称花莲。台湾的县、市概念与我们正好相反,所以花莲市是隶属于花莲县的。
D12 花莲出海啦
出海赏鲸豚:每年的4月至10月,是海豚的求偶期,这段时间,它们会大量跃出海面,以表演来寻得佳偶。海豚通常是成群结队出现,运气好的话,会看到几十或上百头海豚在海面跳跃,甚至在船首乘浪。在花莲,有“看到领航鲸,能交一年好运”的说法。如果深究起来,这个说法与当地人从事渔捞有关。每年4月份东北季风逐渐减弱,台湾东部海域有黑潮洋流经过,黑潮里有丰富的鱼类,花莲渔民用箱网将黑潮拦下,鱼被围下来,然后再去捕获。黑潮里的鱼类,同样吸引著鲸跟着来,而看到鲸,也就意味着有很多鱼,预示著这一年会有好收成。
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虽然今天天气不好,我们还是抱着既然来了就去看看的心态出发啦
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好幸运,我们遇到了短肢领航鲸家族
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追鲸之旅开始啦
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欢快的短肢领航鲸家族
浪里个浪
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出海没有吃晕船药,下船还是有点晕眩感,回去休息一下,来到七星潭。
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七星潭在花莲城市北面,紧邻花莲航空站,虽被称为潭,却是一个由大大小小的砾石所铺陈的弧形海湾。1936年日本人,为兴建沿海飞行场,将原本的七星潭填平,七星潭住民迁到现在的七星海湾一带居住并自称是七星潭人,久而久之该海湾也被称作七星潭。花莲航空站底下,原来就是七星潭沼泽旧址。
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在这片砾石海湾是禁止游客游泳的,这里是一个断崖,离开岸边一小段距离,马上就海水骤深,附近有海底黑潮暗流,海底水流情况非常复杂,也因此这片海湾有很多被黑潮来带的鱼群,附近海面上看到多个大型海上围网。
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不像传统的沙滩,七星潭的沙滩是成片的鹅卵石,躺在鹅卵石上,吹着海风,听着海浪的声音,简直不能更惬意。
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据说垒七颗石头可以带来好运
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戴记扁食没开门,出租司机带我们去了本地人爱光顾的液香扁食。
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吃好饭溜达一圈
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看看夜晚的花莲
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随处可见的选举广告
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花莲县警察局花莲分局
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路过花莲文化创意产业园区
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花莲文化创意产业园区前身为旧花莲酒厂,建筑充满历史韵味,由日式造酒厂改造。
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好吃的池上饭包
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槟榔店
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D13 花东纵谷
今天坐台湾好行花东纵谷线游花莲。花东纵谷是台湾东部纵谷地形景观,夹于中央山脉和海岸山脉之间,由菲律宾板块与欧亚大陆板块所挤压形成,因横跨花莲、台东两县而得名。
第一站:吉安庆修院
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进入神社祭祀前需要先净身,供朝拜者洗手的小亭
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日系风情的小寺院,是从日据时期至今台湾唯一储存完整的日式寺院。神龛、不动明王石刻、光明真言百万遍石碑、88尊神态各异的石佛,清幽静美。
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频繁飞过的军机
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随处可见的急救装置
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第二站:鲤鱼潭
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鲤鱼潭:位于花莲寿丰乡池南村鲤鱼山下,是花莲县内最大的内陆湖泊。当地人原称之为“大陂”,阿美族人则称之为“巴闹”,后因东傍鲤鱼山而被命名为鲤鱼潭。
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鲤鱼潭水最清澈透底,其水源自潭心涌出。
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第三站:立川渔场
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立川渔场位于花莲县的寿丰乡,是一处以养殖黄金蚬、金𨱔、香鱼及水鳗等水产,并研发醃制蚬、蚬精、蚬锭、蚬丸等加工品的观光渔场。
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第四站:云山水
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这里是一片私人所有区域,建筑物都是私人别墅,相当幽静。
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第五站:林田山林场
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1918年,日本人开始在花东纵谷内的林田山地区进行伐木作业,并迁移了大批移民到这里居住,工程队在这里修建了铁路、索道以及生活起居的相关设施,让林田山蜕变成了一个具有完备生活功能的小城镇,全盛时常住人口高达2000多人,被誉为“台湾桧木之乡“,曾是全台第四大林场。90年代停止伐木后,林场转为观光用途,古色古香的日式桧木房舍,铺满落叶的旧铁轨,寂静停靠的小火车都完整储存了下来。
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花东纵谷线有时刻表,公交站都设在景点门口,只要按照时间到公交站等车就可以了,超方便。
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第六站:光复糖厂
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民国2年,东台制糖株式会社在花莲县寿丰乡设立花莲港制糖所,又称为鲤鱼尾糖厂;民国10年另在光复乡设立大和工厂,以扩大制糖产量。二次大战末期,这两处糖厂均遭盟军毁损。光复后,台糖公司接收,决定拆除毁损较严重的寿丰工厂,修复大和工厂并更名为花莲糖厂,成为东部地区的制糖重心。由于糖厂位于光复乡,因此常被称为光复糖厂,其实花莲糖厂才是它正式的名称。花莲糖厂历经数十年的扩建与更新,制糖产量与质量大幅提升,而为了供应花莲糖厂的制糖原料,北起新城乡,南至富里乡,都可见到广阔的甘蔗田,成为花东纵谷里的特殊景观,到糖厂吃冰早已成为大家心中充满欢乐气氛的共同记忆。
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制糖装置、日式宿舍建筑、老仓库、复古小火车营造出浓浓的怀旧氛围。
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D14 清水断崖-太鲁阁-宜兰-瑞芳
在花莲的最后一天终于放晴(好像每个地方最后一天都会放晴,感恩)
包车去看清水断崖啦(清水断崖台湾好行不到,坐火车什么也不方便,只能包车半日游)
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连线宜兰县与花莲县的苏花公路,全长118公里,这条公路以沿断层海岸修筑而闻名。清水断崖,是举世罕见的海岸断崖奇观,是苏花公路最惊险壮丽的代表景观,也是台湾八大奇景之一。
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除悬崖峭壁、山岩耸立,惊涛裂岸,碧海万顷。
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清水断崖位于清水山东侧,所以名字才有“清水”二字,景观公路自苏花公路和平至崇德之间,绵延21公里。其中清水山东南大断崖尤其险峻,绝壁临海面长达5公里,成90度角直插入太平洋,高度均在800米以上,气派雄伟,号称世界第二大断崖。清水断崖是900多万年前由亚欧大陆板块和菲律宾板块碰撞、挤压、隆起上升形成。加上常年累月的雨水侵蚀和风化作用,最终形成今天的断崖景观。
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400年前,葡萄牙水手航行到东方,远眺到一座翡翠般的美丽岛屿,惊呼赞叹“Formosa”(葡语:美丽之岛),这就是台湾别称“福尔摩沙”的由来。花莲县政府声称,当时葡萄牙水手看到的就是今天的花莲清水断崖一带。
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太鲁阁离清水断崖很近,便来到此一游。
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徒步砂卡步道
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大名鼎鼎的燕子口步道没有开放
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我在花莲欢乐多
结束了花莲之旅,坐台铁去宜兰。
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前几天台铁宜兰段刚刚发生了事故,台湾的新闻都在吵这个事情,心有余悸来到宜兰。。
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火车站寄存好行李,过马路,对面就是丢丢当森林,走进几米的童话世界。
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如果我也可以许一个愿望,我想“我的心中每天开出一朵花”,我想去听“森林里的祕密”。
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几米公园:以几米的绘本故事《向左走,向右走》《星空》《忘记亲一下》《地下铁》《世界别为我担心》为蓝本,把铁路局旧宿舍、废弃空地、车站等地重新规划,在宜兰火车站附近集中呈现了几米主题的广场和装置艺术公园。
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缤纷的绘本世界
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幸福转运站
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坐着台铁去瑞芳,一路海景
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D15 瑞芳-平溪线-九份
平溪线,是连线山谷小镇的铁路支线,是时光在一个连一个的隧道中忽明忽暗的闪烁,是青春往事,是《恋恋风尘》的无奈和坦然。
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平溪线于1912年7月全线完工,原本是台阳矿业株式会社所出资兴建的运煤专用铁路。到了1929年才转卖给台湾总督府铁道部(日据时代),经过整建之后开始兼办客运,20世纪80年代由于煤矿场大多关闭,以及人口流失等因素,平溪线的营运亏损,台湾铁路管理局曾经打算停止营运平溪线铁路。经过地方人士的积极争取,因而保留,为仅存的台铁三大支线铁路(平溪线、内湾线、集集线),也成为仍继续营运的铁路支线当中,历史最悠久也是风景最美丽的客运支线。
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第一站:菁桐站,一直保留着日据时代的风格,于1929年通车后,车站一直以来都保留原始风貌,是台湾仅存四个日式木造车站之一。台铁平溪线的终点亦是起点,因煤矿曾经繁忙的矿场小镇,破旧的铁轨,沧桑的建筑,像是被时间遗忘的角落,电影里30年前旧时光的模样和质感,停滞在这山谷里。
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那些年里面男女主角走铁轨的地方
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十分-幸福
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第二站:平溪站
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平溪站,那些年男女主角放天灯的地方。
我们也在这里放天灯祈福。
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第三站:十分车站
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被赋予“十分幸福”的美好寓意,因《那些年》在此取景而闻名。
十分站最出名的就是那一句“十分站到了,下一站,幸福”。
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静安吊桥
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回到瑞芳,排队吃个龙凤腿、牛肉面,上九份咯
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九份:在清朝时期仅有九户人家,邮差来送东西必送“九份”,因称九份。
这里因为发掘出了金子而繁荣,又因为发掘光了金子而被人遗忘。
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九份老街保留着日本旧时生活风貌,红灯笼、窄巷道、青石阶、斑驳的木质建筑等,风格独特,因《悲情城市》和《千与千寻》声名远播。
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摩肩接踵
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升平戏院,售票处、六连座木椅、老旧电影资料、海报、让人彷佛亲眼见到时光倒流。
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阿妹茶楼是九份老街地标性建筑,宫崎郡电影《千与千寻》里汤婆婆的汤屋就是以此为灵感画出的。
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九份这座神祕的小山城,由于激发了动画大师宫崎骏的灵感,而名声大噪。
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依山而建的木屋挂著一盏盏红灯笼,夜晚的阿妹茶楼,放佛走进了千与千寻的童话故事一般。
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D16 九份-瑞芳-台北
在九份的咖啡店,感受九份的放松和怀旧,看《悲情城市》的九份,《恋恋风尘》的九份。
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金瓜石和九份非常近,而且都以矿业闻名,被人称为“金九地区”。
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清光绪十六年(1890年),在金九地区修筑铁路的工人在河道中发现砂金,从而引发了一股淘金热潮。后来的很多淘金客都为了实现淘金梦来此寻找金矿。1893年,淘金客在九份山区附近发现了小金瓜金脉露头,而在此之后不久,淘金客也在附近发现了大金瓜露头。因为大小金瓜的山型很像南瓜,台语中南瓜就是“金瓜”,所以得名“金瓜石”。1938年,金瓜石矿区的黄金产量已经达到了约七万两的高峰,被誉为“亚洲第一贵金属矿山”。将近十万人在这山间聚集起来,都是为了圆自己的淘金梦,现在金瓜石的采矿事业已经终止。
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220公斤的大金砖:这块金砖是999.9纯金熔铸而成,曾获得吉尼斯世界纪录的世界最大金砖荣誉,堪称镇馆之宝。
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回瑞芳坐台铁回台北,十六天的环岛旅行匆匆结束,台湾人的温良恭俭让名不虚传,青春记忆中的台湾,我来过了。
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