台湾游其实已经是两年前的事了,之前因为种种原因,主要还是因为这次旅程行程长、内容大,回来之后一想要把这十几天充实的旅程记录下来,还要配上大师拍的海量的照片,想到就有点头大,不过大师在旅途中拍摄的大量美图,也是我写游记的动力,不把这些美图记录下来,真的太浪费了。所以一直拖到现在没有完成游记,最近因为台湾自由行签暂停了,又让我回忆起了当时在旅途中点点滴滴的美好,所以又下定决心要把这次游记写完,两年时间很多记忆都有点模糊(所以游记真需要及时记录下来,不要拖),只能凭著之前在手机里记录的行程大纲和照片努力回想,终于成篇,内容大、图片多,大家且看且珍惜。
【下为正文】
台湾,一直想去旅行的地方,据说那里山水宜人、美食众多,不仅如此还有很多人文气息浓厚的地方值得一去。2017年7月,我们一行朋友四大一小组队出游,来了一趟看山看海看城市的旅程。这是我第一次来台湾,其实之前我对台湾的印象只是小小一座岛,这次走下来真的打破了我的固有印象,没想到台湾可以玩得这么丰富,高山大海还有吃不过来的美食。我们总共花了半个月的时间,前大半行程是以包车方式环岛,最后几天在台北,城市交通发达纯粹自由行,十几天的时间领略了大半个台湾的风景、美食和人文,留下了满满美好的回忆。
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因为台湾入境期限是15天,我们基本用足了,如果环全岛的话,这点时间有点紧,体力也会更累,所以行程最后定下只环台湾北部半岛,南部地区如台南、垦丁就没去,留着下次再来。我们从上海出发至高雄入台,横贯中部山区阿里山、清境农场、太鲁阁,到花莲,再北上九分、十份、基隆,然后是北投、淡水和台北,最后由台北离开回上海。实实足足十四天的时间,住了7家民宿,想想也是很赶,但好在我们选择了包车游,包车的侯师傅很好很靠谱,前期和师傅沟通地很好,他给到我们一个行程安排的参考,大家最后一致都感觉玩的既充实也不累,想去的地方基本都玩到了,还有师傅额外介绍的地方也给了我们很多惊喜,一路上还有道地的美食相伴,真的是相当不错的一次旅程。
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【摄影师这次很辛苦,一路拍拍拍,还要当劳力,大家一起的合影也只有这一张,从左至右分别是熊姐姐、Yvonne姐、咪小兔(熊姐姐女儿)、包车师傅侯师傅、我和摄影师兼旅行策划兼劳动力东邪。】
先写一下我们的行程大纲,方便大家直接目录搜寻具体内容。
Day1 7/5 上海–高雄、瑞丰夜市
Day2 7/6 高雄游:龙虎塔、驳二艺术特区、旗津岛、MLD台铝、瑞丰夜市
Day3 7/7 奇美博物馆,经台南到达阿里山
Day4 7/8 阿里山国家森林公园
Day5 7/9 清境农场、武岭、太鲁阁国家公园
Day6 7/10 立川渔场、云山水、林田山林场、石梯坪
Day7 7/11 清水断崖、几米公园,到达九份,九份老街
Day8 7/12 黄金博物馆、十分、潮镜公园、基隆夜市
Day9 7/13 淡水,到达北投
Day10 7/14 北投温泉博物馆、地热谷、猫空,西门町夜市
Day11 7/15 剥皮寮老街、信义诚品
Day12 7/16 永乐老街、大稻呈码头、青田文艺街区
Day13 7/17 松山文创园、松山诚品、夜逛西门町
Day14 7/18 台北–上海
出行准备,包括机票、民宿、酒店,还有台湾签注资讯,在文末有详细列出,以供参考。
Day1 上海-高雄、瑞丰夜市
7月5日下午14:55,春秋航空9C8877航班,上海–高雄。原定下午5点半就能到高雄的飞机,因为出发那天上海大雨,延误到晚上7点多才到高雄机场。本来计划第一天逛高雄市中心的计划也泡汤了。从机场做捷运到市内,再到我们在高雄的民宿(高雄里昂),都已经晚上9点了。
一行人饿的不行,还好大师把我们的民宿定在高雄著名的瑞丰夜市旁边,从民宿步行10分钟左右就能到达。放下行李,我们就出门觅食了。不过我们到达当天是周三,夜市当天休市,台湾的夜市一般每周都有1-2天休息,所以逛夜市需要提前做好功课避开休市日哈。但万幸的是,虽然那天休市,市场外围还是有一些小吃摊在路边有出来,虽然数量不多,但我们也吃到了好吃的卤味、炸鸡、葱油饼、果汁奶昔,尤其是卤味,真的很好吃,有荤有素,味道很好。第一天到达酒店实在太晚了,去夜市大家也饿得只顾著吃,所以都没怎么拍照。
Day2 高雄市内游
第二天一大早,我们的包车师傅侯师傅就准时开着他可爱的胖胖车来到民宿来接我们了。侯师傅很靠谱,他不仅负责开车,还会根据我们的需要帮忙安排行程,接下来的9天包车行程就是他和大师之前联络商量好的,他还是半个导游,每到一个景点前他都会简单给我们做介绍。
然后,最重要的一项,托侯师傅到福一路带我们吃了很多美食,我觉得这也是找当地人包车游的好处,前一个景点和下一个景点的间隙,只要在饭点,侯师傅都会尽量带我们去吃一些特色的,又是很道地的台湾美食,不一定要大饭店,很多都是小铺子,自己找可能还比较难一一找到。对于一个吃货来说,这种经历真的很棒。
龙虎塔
高雄的第一站,我们先来到龙虎塔、莲池潭,这里有一汪潭,两座塔,一龙一虎的雕塑卧在塔前。正值盛夏,潭中有好多荷花开着,但这龙虎塔我倒真没觉得有什么,龙头进虎口出,里面有些佛脚的画像,但门口的龙虎雕像真的比较普通,塔也不像古建,更像现代建造的,刷著新漆。
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龙虎塔边上还有一只熊本熊,握手合影来一张
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补个后话,从台湾回来后,发现当时的网红俄罗斯牵手背影情侣也去了台湾,而且也去了高雄的龙虎塔,还在塔前来了一张他们经典的背影照,拍的还挺美。
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龙虎塔前一片荷花池,大夏天很多叶子都快晒枯了,但几株荷花开得正艳。
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在双塔对面是一座香火旺盛的慈济宫,屋顶装饰相当华丽。
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哈玛星铁道文化园区
龙虎塔结束后就接着去往下一个目的地:哈玛星铁道文化园区。这个园区是一个以铁道文化为主的展示园区。园区蛮大的,有很多巨型的雕塑,有一些废弃火车和铁轨展示,最吸引我们的是有可爱的小火车可以坐。
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等候坐小火车的间隙,自拍一个。
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火车会在园区的巨型雕塑间穿行,第一次坐这么小的火车,好好玩。和小火车、小铁轨一对比,我们都是巨人。
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捕捉一只吃冰蛋的咪小兔。
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吃:渡船头海之冰
逛完哈马斯热死了,急需降温解暑,所以去到下一站旗津岛之前,侯师傅先带我们去渡口品尝冰沙。这家店叫渡船头海之冰,有全台大碗冰始祖之称,从标准1人份到超大的20人份都可制作,细腻的绵绵冰上铺上水果、红豆、芋圆、珍珠等各种配料,炎热的天气,来一碗冰冰凉凉的芒果冰沙和绿豆汤,简直太爽了。
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想到马上有冰沙吃,开心地眼睛都笑没了。
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旗津岛
接着就去往下一个地点:旗津岛。旗津位于高雄市西南端,为一呈现西北—东南走向的狭长小岛。在这里可以感受浓浓的港湾风景,需要搭乘轮渡上岛。
去码头坐轮渡,坐轮渡可以用悠游卡买票。
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上船啦,这是我们的渡船,一层可以停摩托车、自行车等,游人一般上二层。
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离开本岛码头啦。
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到达旗津岛码头。
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吃:不一样赤肉羹
岛上的主街有很多大排档和小吃店,正好肚子也饿了,先填饱肚子再玩。侯师傅之前推荐给我们一家吃肉羹的店很地道,店名:不一样赤肉羹。店面看着不起眼,但吃的人不少,他家的肉羹不一样在用炸的酥肉配肉羹,确实跟之后吃的别家不太一样,还点了面和卤肉饭,也不错。
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旗津岛灯塔、炮台
旗津岛上有台湾本岛第二座灯塔,还有炮台可以游览。吃完先去灯塔。上了灯塔,景观很好,高雄市景、港口沙滩一览无余。
灯塔全景
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高雄港全景
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从灯塔看到的高雄港和旗津岛街景
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灯塔下来,接着又去旗后炮台,爽朗有力的海风吹着,在炮台上观景,也是一种很棒的体验。
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除了我们,其他游客也是在炮台上或走、或坐、或躺、或拍,惬意自由。
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海风侵蚀过的炮台,留下了时间的印记。
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厚厚的云层前,一架小小的飞机要降落了。
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海风卷起黑色沙滩上的沙,岸边是五彩的小楼房。
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深入海面的小灯塔,应该为无数海上航行的船只指明过方向。
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从灯塔和炮台下来,我们还逛了下旗津岛,旗津岛上目前还有很多居民居住,颜色鲜艳的民居小楼,还有商铺林立的街道,都留在了我们的相机里。
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驳二艺术特区
旗津岛结束,继续去往驳二艺术特区。其实驳二和之前去的哈玛星靠的很近,一条马路之隔,其实可以一起逛,但我们当时好像是为了赶轮渡,就把旗津岛夹在哈玛星和驳二行程中间了。
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驳二艺术特区原为港口仓库,后改造成为艺术特区,且保留了斑驳的铁门与裸露的水泥墙。园区内散布著大量外形可爱,设计前卫的高大公仔,还有大型的3D壁画。
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园区内有文创店可以逛,也很适合拍照哈。
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驳二依旧还是一个港口和捷运站,船只在码头停靠,捷运也正常执行,我们还坐了一段捷运感受了一番。
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MLD台铝
今天的旅行任务大概就完成了,最后侯师傅推荐了MLD台铝,这里也是高雄的文艺打卡地,前身是台湾铝厂改造而成的,集合餐厅,cafe,超市,影院、书店等的一座购物中心。只是时间太紧,我们匆匆一逛,留待下次在高雄好好逛一下吧。
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吃:瑞丰夜市
逛完回名宿稍事休息,肚子也饿了,今天瑞丰夜市营业,就直接去夜市尝美食啦。今天的夜市人就比较多,美食区几乎都是人贴人走路,热门摊位前还需要排队。夜市里印象比较深刻的还是卤味,还有无骨鸡爪、大肠包小肠,还有各种炸物、果汁。除了美食区,另外挺好玩的还有游戏区,弹弹珠、套圈圈、抓小鱼什么的,玩到一定分数还有奖励,很有意思。
只可惜在瑞丰夜市没好好拍照,只顾著吃了,只拍下一张路口手机照为证。
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Day3 奇美博物馆、途径台南市到达阿里山
今天是赶路的一天,早上就离开高雄民宿,经台南前往嘉义,上阿里山,晚上住阿里山民宿:阿里山渊明居客栈。
奇美博物馆
途中经过台南的奇美博物馆,这个博物馆是一傢俬人博物馆,由台湾著名企业家,奇美实业总裁许文龙创办。占地很大,完全是欧式风格的建筑和园林,外面看还是很震撼的,馆内据说珍藏很多西洋绘画雕塑、乐器、古兵器、自然标本和古文物,因为时间关系我们只是短暂停留,匆匆参观了外部园林,并没有进去参观,回来后听去过的朋友介绍还是很不错的,下次去台南可以好好参观一下。
古典式的雕塑和建筑,仿佛置身于欧洲某个宫殿。
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花园也是欧式风范。
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吃:台南文章牛肉
博物馆短暂停留后,继续赶路,差不多也到了午餐时间,这是正好经过台南市,侯师傅就带我们去台南很有名的文章牛肉店吃饭。正好是饭点,好多当地人还有附近上班族和学生也来午餐,小小排队了一下下就进店了,点了招牌牛肉汤、卤肉饭还有几个小菜,牛肉鲜嫩汤鲜美,和平时家里做的不太一样,卤肉饭也很推荐,小菜我们点的姜片牛肉和超牛舌,味道也蛮赞的。
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咪小兔到饭点就兴奋。
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牛肉汤来了,好嫩哦~
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姜片炒牛肉也很好吃👍
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这是炒牛舌,牛舌Q弹,回味无穷。
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他们家的卤肉饭也不错。
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吃完牛肉汤,旁边甜品店买了一份红砖布丁作为饭后甜点,Q弹美味,完美。拍了延迟照片,可惜发不上来。
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到达阿里山,入住民宿,民宿火锅
吃完之后继续赶路,到达嘉义市后没有在市内停留,直接上山,当时天空下起了大雨,盘山公路上山去往我们的民宿。民宿处在阿里山一片茶园之中,本来计划安顿好出去逛逛的,无奈大雨,只能在民宿等雨停,我们住的民宿有新楼、旧楼,当时我们定的时候新楼没房间了,所以定了旧楼,但早餐、晚餐还是要去新楼吃,晚餐定了酒店的小火锅套餐,食材新鲜味道也很好。等到饭点,雨也就停了,步行前往新楼吃饭。
吃完午饭的路上,还晴空万里。
前面就是阿里山啦,这时候还没下雨。
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进阿里山,就开始大暴雨,能见度极低,还是盘山路上山,不过师傅开车技术好,十分稳当。
到达民宿后,还是继续大雨,本来下午出去溜达的计划也泡汤了。
终于到了晚饭时分,雨停了,去民宿新楼吃晚饭火锅啦。
雨过天晴,正好也是夕阳西下时分,天空的天色由金转蓝,变幻莫测,煞是好看。山谷间空气清澈,炊烟袅袅升起。我们肚子也饿了,步行去吃晚餐,据说晚餐是新鲜食材的小火锅,很期待啊。
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这是我们住的民宿旧楼,都是平房,前面是店主住房,后面是客房。
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山下小镇上已经亮起点点灯光。
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去往晚餐的路上,周围都是茶园。
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民宿新楼,我们就在这里晚餐,正值周末,客房都满了。
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我们去的尚早,等待上餐的时候,我们一行人上了天台看看,远山、云雾、点点灯光,还有雨后清新的空气,让一切都感觉很美好。
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晚餐图是用手机拍的,单人份小火锅,内容足味道好。
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吃好晚饭回去的路上,夜幕降临,远远看到山下城市灯光一片灿烂。
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Day4 阿里山国家森林游乐区
今天到行程是游览阿里山国家森林游乐区,游览完前往清境农场附近的民宿:麋鹿遇见松鼠。
早上起来,我们还是步行去新楼吃早餐。山上的天气已经转晴,稍微有点冷。茶园的空气特别清新,勤劳的采茶女已经开始工作啦。
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山上还有步行栈道,可以往茶园里走走逛逛。
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吃好早饭,整理行李,又坐上侯师傅的车,开往今天游览的重点专案,阿里山国家森林公园。
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一进园就去乘坐阿里山热门的小火车,红色复古的小火车真的很惹眼,小火车从入口处的阿里山车站有两条不同的路线,一条去往神木车站,一条去往沼平车站。我们坐的是去沼平车站,买好车票就上车啦,我们去的时候人不多,我们几个人包了一整个车厢。火车在古木参天的森林里慢悠悠地开,没过多久就到达了沼平车站。
下面这张照片是阿里山车站,不过已经是下午玩完回来拍的了,山上天气阴晴不定,上午的时候还是晴空蓝天,到了中午云雾就开始笼罩山头变阴了。
火车进站啦~
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早上天气真好,红色小火车在蓝天映衬下格外耀眼。
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占据了一整个车厢的我们
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火车上山咯~
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到站了,和小火车合个影~
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摄影师到站图只有手机照了~
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古老的火车头,一起合个影吧~
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阿里山国家森林公园里有好几个分散的景区,我们主要游览了沼平公园,然后沿着步行栈道往入口处散步走回,如果时间充裕的话也可以去神木区看看。步行道修的很好,身在山中身边都是非常高大的树木,环境空气真的没得说,天气也不错一扫昨天风雨的愁云,蓝天薄云虽然是盛夏时节,但是山上真的很凉快,一边散步吸氧,一边看看风景,很是惬意。
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逛完一圈,又回到了阿里山车站附近的出口。
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吃:山宾餐厅
走到入口处,正好也到了中午饭点,园区里就有餐厅,随便找了一家叫山宾餐厅,落座吃饭休息,饭菜很可口,大家都有点饿了,都没来得及拍照就吃光光了,价格也不是景区那种很贵的,大家都很满意。
到达清境农场民宿
在阿里山吃好午餐出来,侯师傅已经在出口处等我们了,直接上车继续赶往下一个民宿,这次我们入住的是在清境农场农场附近的民宿“麋鹿遇见松鼠”。沿途公路上还看到有自行车骑行族,摩托车车队,尤其是自行车族都是装备齐全,山路有些地方还很陡,看他们骑车也挺累的,但可以感受到骑手们乐在其中。
到达民宿之后发现,稍事整理,就去更高一点的清境农场游客休闲中心吃饭,沿着山路走可以看到很多欧式古堡式的建筑在山间,其实也都是酒店或民宿,这种感觉好像并不是在台湾而是在欧洲,也是很奇妙啊,其实最开始我们也想定古堡民宿体验到,只是古堡民宿房源紧张,当时定晚了没有订到,只能在“古堡”周围转转啦。
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游客休闲中心其实比较普通,有一些饮食摊提供各色美食,有点像上海商场里的大时代的感觉,稍微吃了一点当晚餐,然后又去休闲中心附近的文创店逛了逛就回酒店了。
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Day5 清境农场、武岭、太鲁阁国家公园
今天的行程是一路游览清境农场、武岭、太鲁阁国家公园,开车向东跨跃台湾中部山脉,晚上到达花莲。
早起在民宿吃了一顿丰富的早餐,顺便拍了点民宿小景。
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清境农场青青草原
吃完早餐收拾好行装,一行人坐着侯师傅的车就往清境农场青青草原景区去了。今天正好适逢周末,上山去农场的人还是蛮多的,汽车排长龙,稍稍堵车了一会。
青青草原是清境农场人气最旺的景点,海拔1800米,是世界上极为少见的高海拔草原。青青草原最著名的活动就是“绵羊秀”,进入草原之后大家就在面对秀场的草坪上占据有利地形坐下来等秀开场。有赶羊秀还有剪羊毛表演,澳洲来的牧羊人一口流利中文,讲解说辞幽默诙谐,看到可爱的羊咩咩,大人小孩都觉得很有意思。看完表演,就可以去和小羊亲密接触啦,可以买点羊食去喂羊咩咩,还可以摸摸它们,当然也不会忘了和可爱的小羊合影。
绵羊秀马上开始啦~
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牧羊犬赶羊~
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接下来是剪羊毛~
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看完秀就开始自由喂羊时间。
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青青草原面积挺大的,在群山之中绵延不尽,阳光、蓝天下,走在脚感舒服的草原上,很是享受。
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差不多游览半天,又要离开了,在出景区的区域有一片餐饮区,最后我们就稍微买了点吃的,填饱肚子继续上路下一站。
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武岭
我们这几天的行程就是从台西横跨中部山脉到达台东,海拔也是从低到高再回低。上午还在2千米左右海拔的清境农场,下午又直上1千多米,到达了此次行程的最高点–海拔3275米的武岭。
武岭可以算是台湾公路的最高点了,沿路看到不少摩托车、自行车队骑车到这里,骑车上来真的很挑战哦!为这些骑手点赞👍。武岭上一块标志着海拔的石碑是几乎所有上来的人都会合影的地方。东边还有一座观景台,眺望高低起伏、大气雄浑的山脉在眼前展开,再加上远处层层云海升腾穿越,气势真的非同一般,和之前去过的很多山景都不太一样,看得心情也是很舒展。
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太鲁阁国家公园
武岭观景结束,我们又上车继续前往下一个目的地:太鲁阁国家公园。行程的海拔也开始往下走了。
太鲁阁国家公园面积很大,其实也是几座山环绕而成,位置已经在台湾东部,很靠近花莲了。它是一个天然美景和人工开凿结合的景区,虽然听到人工有点打鼓,但实际去看过,确实真的很为当时修建太鲁阁的工人、老兵竖拇指,因为园内台湾第一条东西横贯公路–中横公路,就是老兵们一凿一凿在坚硬的崖壁上开凿出来的,据说当时修建的时候很多人还因公殉职。我们主要游览的就是比较著名的燕子口。
燕子口为太鲁阁峡谷的一段峭壁,这一段中横公路就是沿着峭壁开凿而成,侯师傅把我们从入口处放下,让我们自己慢慢散步观景游览,他先把车开去前面等我们。沿着路步行,旁边就是太鲁阁大峡谷,山壁雄峻、幽谷萦纡,秀美奇幻的岩石峭壁,湍急的溪流,让我仿佛又想起了香格里拉的巴拉格宗峡谷,与之前大气磅礴的武岭又是完全不同的一翻景象,不仅赞叹大自然的鬼斧神工。
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达到花莲
一路从西到东,下午,我们就达到了花莲,一进入花莲区域,立马景致和感觉都不一样了,海风徐徐吹来,海景就在公路的尽头。这两天横贯东西的跨越之旅,虽然看着有点赶,都是下车看景上车睡觉,但所到之处无不是精华之处,而且玩的时间也都足够,这也都是前期大师和侯师傅商量沟通的成果,我们这两天经历完全不同的景致,跨越不同的海拔,感受不同的季节,早上还在山上,晚上已到海边,一行人大人小孩都玩得很开心,体验非常精彩。
吃:老牌炸弹葱油饼
到花莲就开始比较悠闲的安排了,到达民宿前,侯师傅先带我们去打卡网红葱油饼–老牌炸蛋葱油饼,据说再晚去就没有了。这家葱油饼人气很高,6点去的时候还在大排长龙,旁边也有一家葱油饼,一家是蓝车一家黄车,我们吃的是蓝车,据说一个是师傅开一个是徒弟开的,两家仿佛打擂台也是很有意思。葱油饼拿到手就开吃,表面炸得脆脆的,内里一个爆浆荷包蛋,真的超级香啊,恨不得多吃几个,但是等下还有美食等着我们,胃还是要留一点。
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吃:戴记扁食
民宿安排好入住,稍事整理,侯师傅又开车带我们去往下一个美食打卡地–戴记扁食。扁食其实就是馄饨,但是和我们江苏上海一带的大馄饨包法不同,更像小馄饨,但个头又明显比小馄饨大。扁食皮薄馅大,汤里加了胡椒粉和芹菜末,鲜美可口。戴记扁食据说是蒋经国来花莲必吃的,现在成了网红店,但店面装修也很朴实,想来尝试的朋友推荐来吃吃,还不错。
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逛吃:东大门夜市
吃完晚餐,我们就自己开始在花莲市闲逛起来,逛著逛著就逛到了东大门夜市。
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我们还赶巧遇上了夜市夏季音乐节演唱会,虽然台上的明星不太认识,还是在舞台下欣赏了一会,偶像明星载歌载舞也是很热闹。
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看了一会演出,就继续逛夜市,东大门夜市真的超级大,感觉比之前高雄瑞丰夜市还有后面去的基隆夜市要大很多,人多路也比其他夜市要宽,也是聚集了各种好吃的,好玩的,虽然前面吃饱了,还是不免再来点小串串、奶茶、冰淇淋,一边吃一边逛消食,一边深感有夜市的台湾人民太辛福了。
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Day6 立川渔场、云山水、林田山林场
早起睡到自然醒,9点多去民宿附近的早餐店吃了一顿丰盛的早餐,10点多就坐着侯师傅的胖胖车开启了新一天的旅程。今天的行程就是游览花莲附近的景区:立川渔场、云山水、林田山林场、石梯坪。后两处个人很推荐。
立川渔场
第一站是立川渔场,这是一处以养殖黄金蚬、金𨱔、香鱼及水鳗等水产,并研发制蚬、蚬精、蚬锭、蚬丸等加工品的观光渔场。可以下水摸蚬和喂鱼,没有准备泳衣就没下水,就体验了下喂鱼。这个景点我印象不深,因为对我实在没太大吸引力哈。
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小朋友都很喜欢喂鱼哈~
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云山水
云山水距离立川渔场不远,也是一片被私人买下的土地,名曰云山水自然生态农庄,农庄植被茂盛,水草丰美,绿化不错,还看到一群鸭子,小朋友玩得比较开心。
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吃:满妹猪脚
看完两个景点,肚子也饿了,在去往下一站的路上,侯师傅又带我们打卡一家网红餐厅–满妹猪脚。一看店名就知道是主打猪脚,猪脚软烂入味,除此还点了其他小菜,也都味道不错,价格也不贵,看到墙上很多名人合影,确实人气很旺哈。
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林田山林场
吃完饭继续前行去往下一站–林田山林场。林田山林场位在花莲凤林镇森荣里,它是日据时代兴盛的林场,几乎完整保留了当时的日式风貌,行走其间仿佛不是在台湾,而是在日本某个小镇上,但建筑多数已经破旧没有人居住。这个园区类似我们以前的国营大厂区,里面除了林场,还有宿舍、食堂、纪念堂、福利社、小学等等,俨然一座小镇,当时的人们都在这里工作、生活。还能看到运送木材的铁轨、火车。一切都是很真实,很怀旧的气氛,景色绿化也很美,非常值得细细游览品味。参观之前对此处完全不知道,参观完非常喜欢,下次来肯定还要再来逛逛。
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逛了半天,我们还去山上的林田山咖啡馆点了些饮料,小憩一会,店内也是传统日式古朴风格,也很喜欢。
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石梯坪
逛完林田山,本来以为已经是今天游览的高潮了,没想到最后一个景点也是惊喜,那就是石梯坪。一路沿着海岸公路开往石梯坪的时候,海风拂面,太平洋就在一边,真的心情大好。石梯坪位于丰滨乡花东海岸公路67公里处,位于石梯湾南侧的尾端,这里奇岩怪石,灰白色的巨大岩石在碧海蓝天中格外好看。海浪一波又一波地拍打着石岸,被海水腐蚀的岩石缝隙中,还有海水喷涌而出,远眺太平洋无边无际,一切都太美了。
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从石梯坪回去的路上还路过一个爱心雕塑的海边景点,继续拍拍照
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吃:北港春卷
游完石梯坪,天色也渐晚,结束了一天的行程开回民宿。逛了一下午,大家肚子又饿了,照例我们的美食地导侯师傅继续上线,这次推荐的美食是北港春卷。北港春卷是自强夜市的一个车位摊,玩了一天,女生们都精疲力尽,唯一的男士大师就下车帮我们购买,本来想着一人一个先垫一下,等下再去吃晚饭的,谁知道一个春卷比一个餈饭团还大,一个下去几乎都饱了。此春卷不同平时上海吃的油炸春卷,它类似我在厦门吃的,薄饼皮,里面内容丰富:肉末、高丽菜、豆芽、花生粉、萝卜干等等,满满一握分量十足。真的很好吃,非常推荐哈。只可惜大师买的时候没有拍照,我们又是在车上吃的也拍不出来,没有照片,感兴趣的可以蚂蜂窝搜北港春卷看人家拍的照片,或者直接去吃,哈哈。
Day7 清水断崖、几米公园,九份老街
今天就要离开花莲,开始我们沿着台东北上的行程,中间会途经清水断崖景区,宜兰几米公园,到达九份,游览九份老街,宿九份民宿:阳光味宿。
清水断崖
离开民宿,我们就一路沿着苏花公路向北开,苏花公路是沿着海岸线的公路,一边是山一边就是太平洋,本身就是一条很美的公路,开了没多久就来到了苏花公路最美景点–清水断崖。在这里悬崖峭壁和茫茫大海分居两侧,崖高一千多公尺,高山直入太平洋,格外壮观震撼,海水从崖边到远处呈现各种不同的蓝色,分外好看。
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在这里还意外看到好几辆侯师傅车队的胖胖车,每一辆都好可爱哦。
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吃:阿孃给的蒜味肉羹
今天也是赶路的一天,中午1点多就差不多到宜兰市了,照例侯师傅又带我们去吃好吃的了,这次打卡的美食店是宜兰有名的肉羹店:阿孃给的蒜味肉羹。据说蒜味的肉羹是宜兰肉羹的特色,而阿孃这家店也比较出名,我们尝试了一下确实不错。
几米公园
几米是之前很火的一位台湾插画师,而位于宜兰火车站南侧的几米公园,就是以几米插画的元素作为装饰的主题公园。其实并没有围墙围起来,就是街边的景区,没有门票,很适合拍照。原来这里是废弃的铁路局就宿舍区,重新改造后焕发新的艺术生机,走在其中就像走入缤纷的绘本世界。
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吃:柯式葱油饼
在宜兰有一家有名的网红葱油饼店:柯式葱油饼。这家葱油饼主打配料用了宜兰特产“三星葱”(对三星葱的了解还是之前在锋味节目中谢霆锋和舒淇做嘉宾的那期知道的),咬一口葱香浓郁,油而不腻。每天店门口都是大排长龙,很多当地人和游客来吃,来宜兰可以来尝尝看哦。
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吃:奕顺轩蛋糕
在柯式葱油饼店附近,还有一家人潮涌动的蛋糕店:奕顺轩。这家甜品店是当地很有名的古早蛋糕甜品店,买伴手礼的好选择。还有这家店的特色就是热情热情热情,一直不断可以试吃,师傅推荐我们来,估计也是想让我们感受一下台湾店家的热情。其中几样真的味道不错,只是因为新鲜糕点保质期都不长,我们只能买了点当零食吃,带回上海时间太久了。
九份老街
在宜兰吃饱喝足逛完之后,下午3点多我们又继续赶路啦。直接去往下一站:九份。到达九份民宿(阳光味宿)已经下午5点多了,这次选的民宿直接面海,景观很不错,而去九份老街也不远,步行5分钟就可以走到。
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房间里也用手机拍了几张,我们入住的房间很有地中海的风格,阳台直面大海,很棒哈~
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民宿休息整理好,我们就开始逛九份了。关于九份,最早是在陈绮贞的歌《九份的咖啡店》里。今天来逛,有点恍如隔世,但老街的景象又与想象中不太一样。街道都是建在山坡上一路上来下去,红灯笼、窄巷道、青石阶、斑驳的木质建筑等,风格独特。好多有意思的小店、文创店,走走逛逛也很有意思。
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吃:阿柑姨芋圆
说到九份美食推荐,首推阿柑姨芋圆,老街走到尽头九份国小边上。在门口根据自己口味买好芋圆,然后端进店内,店内好像有两层,我们往下一层,坐到一个面海的位置,一边吃一边看景看日落,好开心哦。
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Day8黄金博物馆、十分、潮镜公园、基隆夜市
今天继续以九份为据点,逛游周围。早上在民宿吃好早饭,等待侯师傅的时候,在民宿可爱的环境里继续拍拍照片哈,面朝大海,蓝天晴空,看了也是心情愉悦呀。
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黄金博物馆
今天的游览第一站是黄金博物馆。这是一座由过去的金矿矿区转型而成的博物馆区,也是日据时代的遗留产物。博物馆诉说著金瓜石的矿业历史与文化,让现代的人们也能体验金瓜石昔日的繁荣光采,里面有一大块金砖,可以排队上前摸一摸拍照哈。除了参观,还可以亲身体验淘金的过程,或者体验昔日淘金的坑道,这个我们没有体验。
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博物馆门口有一处老式车站,估计以前的矿工们就是每天公共汽车上下班吧。
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我们去的那几天正值炎炎夏日,等候的走廊区域有贴心的喷雾器为游客降温。
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参观博物馆,摸金砖~
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铁轨随处可见,当时金矿挖出来就直接小火车运走了。
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金瓜石邮局,可以寄明信片哈~
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除了博物馆,里面还有两处日式建筑值得参观。四连栋是一座四户相通的日式宿舍,四户都有各自的玄关、厨房、浴室、厕所等装置,虽为连栋式宿舍,属于高阶宿舍。四连栋为台湾境内少数储存之特殊规模的日式建筑(日治时期为日人职员宿舍),故保留其原貌并依原本空间规划作为展示及生活美学体验空间。透过日式恬适的空间,可以了解四连栋人文历史与建筑之美,并细细品味生活中各种美学经验。四连栋承载过去丰富的人文、生活,是矿山所遗留下来的珍贵的记忆。
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还有一处是金瓜石太子宾馆。这里原为日本矿业株式会社为迎接日本皇太子视察金瓜石所建的临时行馆。又称第一宾馆。宾馆隐于树林之间,建材与形制均彷日本皇宫而建造,颇具美感。庭园也是整理地很有日式风格,清新典雅。
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吃:矿工食堂
博物馆内还有一家特色餐厅:矿工食堂。在这里可以吃到一份矿工便当,包含了包便当的方巾、不锈钢便当盒和筷子,为了方便食客吃完不用洗餐具,食物是另用食盒奉上的。便当里一份大猪排,还有卤肉和小菜,虽不是惊喜的美味,但也可以吃出当时矿工吃的一份感觉吧。除了便当,我们还尝试了一下金箔冰淇淋,其实就是在蛋筒冰淇淋上粘了一些食用金箔,不过炎热的天气下来一颗冰淇淋也是很爽的哈。
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逛完了黄金博物馆,我们前往十分,路上还在靠近博物馆山下的黄金瀑布停留了一下。
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十分
今天的第二站是十分。十分最著名的就是放天灯许愿,我们也不免俗,尝试了一把。放天灯的店铺就在十分铁轨两边,选好天灯,就开始在灯上写愿望,四面都写好,就来到铁轨上点灯放灯,铁轨上不时还有火车经过,有火车来了店家就会招呼大家先边上站一站,等火车开走,又回来放灯,店家也都很专业,你们放灯的时候,他会帮你们拍照,手机、单反都拍的很溜哈。
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放完天灯沿着铁轨两边的小店走走,大部分是小吃和奶茶店,买个奶茶边走边逛。走到十分车站,之前和侯师傅说好,他在平溪站等我们,我们就在十分各买了一张十分到平溪的车票,坐火车到平溪和侯师傅会和。顺便也体验一下台湾的火车。十分到平溪有3站,13分钟就能到达,但是要注意火车1小时一班,把握好时间,建议可以先买票,如果时间多可以再在十分逛一逛。
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潮镜公园
潮镜公园不是我们之前计划去的,正好是回去路上经过,侯师傅推荐的一个景点。它是台湾基隆市长潭里的市民公园,这里原来是一个垃圾堆放场,后来政府规划投资建设,成为了风景优美,绿草如茵,悠远宁静的好地方。风光不错,可以远眺九份,也可以近观海浪。也是旅途中下车休息的一个好去处。
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基隆庙口夜市
逛完潮镜公园,掐指一算又到了填饱肚子的时候,这次侯师傅没有带我们去什么小店,而是直接把我们送到了美食的海洋:基隆庙口夜市。这个夜市也是台湾很有名的夜市,之前也是在锋味里看到谢霆锋和舒淇逛过。人潮涌动,各色美食小店林立,都不知道吃哪个才好,现场吃不过来,还打包带回了好多,正好晚上当宵夜哈。
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Day9 淡水
今天离开九份,继续北上,经淡水,去往北投。
早上依旧睡到自然醒,悠闲吃完早餐,这家民宿的早饭是老板娘每天早上亲自准备的,三明治、咖啡、面包、小菜和水果,搭配地很温馨,味道也不错呢。吃完早餐就要去往下一站,温馨的民宿不免还是有点留恋,再拍一点照片留下美好回忆。
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吃好等侯师傅来接我们。包车游真的还蛮轻松的,虽然看着我们行程赶景点多,但其实一点也不累。上车就是看一路的风景+休息,下车玩景点也没有像跟团游要掐著点,好玩的地方多点时间,不好玩的地方看看拍拍就可以上路。师傅很熟悉台湾路况和景点分布,还能根据我们的不同需要更改行程。
吃:海边小卷、金包里鸭肉
上午10点多才出发,今天侯师傅会先带我们中午去打卡一家美食,路上经过龟吼渔港,上午渔港有最新鲜的小卷,就是小鱿鱼,新鲜的小卷白灼一下配上酱料真的好赞,侯师傅特地帮我买了一份在路上吃。
接着继续朝着我们的美食目的地出发,这次要打卡的美食是新北市金山区金山老街上的金包里鸭肉。这家店特别有意思,取餐和就餐并不是一个地方,取餐居然在了一个庙里,没有选单,一盘盘刚烧好热腾腾装满美味的盘子就摆在庙里的台面上随你取用,喜欢什么拿什么,拿好菜再走了好几米到庙对面的店里就餐,就餐的时候熟练的伙计就会来点你的盘子顺便算好账会给一个小票,结账的时候拿着小票去结就可以了。饭点的时候,你就会看到庙和店之间往来端菜的客人,这样的场面真的长见识了太特别了,不过我在想如果下雨怎么办?说完独特的就餐方式,再来说说菜本身哈,店名里有鸭肉两字做招牌,当然要尝尝啦,鸭肉配姜丝,肉质软韧韧的不油腻,饱含汁水,搭配一点姜丝入口蛮好吃的。点的其他几个小菜也是家常味道,没有踩雷,而且最后结算价格也不贵,这一顿大家吃得都很开心,不妄我们专门赶来吃了一顿。
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吃完饭,和侯师傅约定碰头的时间还早,我们就又逛了下金山老街,这条街也是美食一条街,很多老铺子,有餐厅有南北货有特产有奶茶有甜品,很是热闹。
淡水半日游
吃饱喝足后和侯师傅碰头,去往淡水,开始我们的淡水半日游。淡水我们玩的景点比较集中,主要就在真理街上,而且因为那附近也有淡水长堤和海关码头,所以愚人码头就没有去。侯师傅把我们带去那里后下车,我们就沿着真理街散步而行,开始了我们的淡水慢游之旅。
小白宫
第一站是小白宫,我们当时买了淡水古蹟博物馆的通票,包含了小白宫、红毛城、沪尾炮台三个景区的门票,会在手上盖个章,这样去下面两个景点就不用在出示门票了,只要出示盖章就可以。接下来就会看到我每张照片手上的印章。
小白宫是淡水古蹟园的一部分,它原是前清淡水税务司官邸,是一栋西班牙风格的殖民地建筑,纯白色的小楼红色屋顶,宽敞的回廊,房间也是宽敞舒适,室外有美丽的小小庭院,很适合拍照哈。
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淡水中学
淡水中学就在小白宫后面,出门拐个弯就到了。淡水中学全名私立淡江高阶中学,是台湾省比较著名的中学。校内景色优美,有淡水女学堂、马偕墓园及八角楼,都极具艺术价值与历史意义。它也是淡水古蹟之一,但是学校全年不能参观,所以只能在门口留影纪念。淡水中学有一个大家比较熟知的校友就是周杰伦,而且他曾在自己执导的电影《不能说的祕密》中就回自己母校取景,因此也让淡江中学知名度大增。
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真理大学
继续沿着真理街往前走不远,就可以走到真理大学。真理大学是一所有宗教背景的大学,是台湾基督长老教会创办的私立大学,前身为淡水工商管理学院。校园环境很不错,建筑多数是欧式古典的风格,红砖墙、灰色水磨石和尖券柱廊,显得典雅庄重,庭院绿化整理地绿意盎然,再如此优美环境中上学的学生应该每天都很开心吧。
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牧师楼、牧师楼古蹟庭园咖啡馆
在大学附近我们还找到一家咖啡馆:牧师楼古蹟庭园咖啡。古典质朴的装饰很漂亮,还有阵阵香浓的咖啡香飘来,我们就在这里坐坐喝喝咖啡、冰沙,还和老板小小聊了一下,度过了一会美妙的午后时光。
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咖啡馆所处的牧师楼也是周杰伦电影《不能说的祕密》中重要取景地,环境当然很美,喝咖啡之余不免在此走走拍拍,希望用镜头记录下这美好一刻。
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淡水红毛城
淡水红毛城是淡水最具历史意义的建筑,也是台湾一级古蹟。西班牙风格的建筑,经历西班牙、英国人,后长期成为英领事的办公地,直到八十年代才交到台湾人民的手中。市内还保留了欧式风格的家俱和装饰,外面也是红墙红瓦,拱形廊柱,在蓝天白云和绿色庭院的映照下,拍出来就像油画一般艳丽。
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淡水海关码头
逛完红毛城,继续沿真理街往下走到就可以走到淡水海关码头。除去码头,这里更像是一个市民休息场所,在榕树厚厚到树荫下,面对淡水河而坐,时光一下子就慢下来了,正好前面逛得有点累了,在这里面水发呆了好一会儿。小伙伴还去借了公共自行车骑行玩耍,感觉真的融入了淡水市民的生活之中。
吃:台南卤三块
结束了淡水半日游,我们继续赶往今天要投宿的民宿。入住之前当然要吃个饱饭啦。今天我们的美食推荐官侯师傅,推荐的美食是同样在北投区的台南卤三块。到店一看,是一家超级接地气的蝇头小馆,看着老旧但店家收拾得很干净,主打卤肉饭和五花肉饭。招牌饭各来两碗,还点了卤豆腐、卤蛋、卤笋丝,卤味都做的很入味,肉也不油腻,真的非常好吃,推荐推荐。
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温泉民宿泡温泉
吃好饭就去民宿入住啦。今天我们住在温泉之乡北投,当然要住一家温泉民宿了。我们的民宿是北投俩人温泉旅店,是一家风格现代的小酒店,每个房间都有温泉池,安顿好就开始泡温泉,泡完浑身舒服,睡了一个好觉。
Day10 北投、猫空、台北西门町
今天也是丰富的一天,基本是从台北外围往中心去的节奏。上午玩了北投的几个景点,下午去猫空,晚上到达台北西门町,入住酒店:町旅人酒店。
北投图书馆
早上先在酒店吃好早饭,收好行李,寄存在前台,又开始了我们的步行逛北投之旅。第一站是北投图书馆,北投图书馆是台北市立图书馆北投分馆,木质结构的独特建筑造型,远远看到就被吸引了,据说还被评为全球最美的25座公立图书馆之一。我们进去参观了一点点,室内不太好拍照,所以只是拍了一些建筑外观照,在森林系的环境中伫立这一座木质的仿佛会呼吸的建筑,真的太漂亮了。
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北投温泉博物馆
北投温泉博物馆是1913年兴建的温泉公共浴场,在1997年被定为台湾三级文物古蹟并改建为北投温泉博物馆。进馆不用门票,免费参观,但是需要脱鞋还拖鞋进入,工作人员的指示和服务都很好,入口其实在二层,设有大型的榻榻米日式休息间,下到一楼就是很多关于北投温泉的展厅,还有曾经的大型浴场,其中印象最深刻的是浮铃浴场,水中漂浮着好多大小不一的水铃随水流动,相互撞击琮铮不断,立马让泡澡这件俗事也充满了雅韵。除了室内,室外的庭院也是草坪优美、景观典雅,宁静悠闲的氛围真的很舒服。
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北投地热谷
地热谷也是免费参观,不用门票。它是日据时代台湾八胜十二景之一,也是北投温泉的源头。主要是一池热气腾腾的温泉,我们去的时候是夏天,但还是被池水上升腾的白色热气给震撼了,池水据说都是75度以上的高温,而且因为含有硫磺,走近又是热浪又是难闻的气味,感受还是很深刻的。稍微逛了一圈,在气温和气味的双重攻击下,就匆匆退下了。
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猫空
上午逛完,11点左右回酒店拿行李,然后和侯师傅碰头,然后师傅就带我们去了猫空。猫空听名字很小清新,其实是一座台北市内山上的一座茶园,有缆车可以上下山,也有众多登山步道,可从山脚一直攀到山顶,周末有许多当地居民来此锻炼、登高望远。猫空也是看台北全景的一处好地方,天气好还能看到101。我们是师傅直接开车送上山顶,到山顶的时候肚子饿了,看到一家缆车站附近的饭店:大头土鸡城。点了几个菜,先填个肚子,吃饱了再去坐缆车。
猫空的缆车有两种,一种是普通的,一种叫水晶缆车,车厢底部是全透明的,坐在里面犹如悬浮在空中一般。水晶缆车比较少,等几辆普通缆车才能坐上,难得来一次就等了一会体验了一把,感觉确实不错,很爽很刺激。
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吃:美观园日本料理
猫空游览结束,我们就直奔台北啦。先去酒店入住,我们在台北住的酒店就在西门町,叫町旅人酒店。简单收拾一下,就出门吃晚饭了。今天是侯师傅包车的最后一天,为了感谢师傅这几天辛苦的开车和周到的服务,我们请师傅一起吃了美观园日本料理(之前吃饭师傅都跟我们不一起吃饭)。
美观园是西门町里比较老字号的一家日料店,有70多年的历史。点了好多菜,大家都吃的挺开心,还和侯师傅约定以后再来台湾,要玩台湾南部再找他包车带我们玩。侯师傅的车队大本营其实在垦丁,如果去南部,他就更熟门熟路啦。
夜逛西门町
吃好饭,也跟侯师傅好好告别,之后我们就开始夜逛西门町了。先去了隔壁的万年大厦,万年大厦里面都是小商铺,钟表、衣服、球鞋、书、杂志、手办等等,很适合年轻人逛,买了一本小个子女生穿搭的日文书。
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夜幕降临,西门町街上的夜市铺子也开始营业了,不同于之前逛的瑞丰、花莲东大门或是基隆庙口夜市,西门町的夜市没有那么大规模,就是夹杂在几条小街小巷中间,一路走过去都是各种小吃店或者摊位,台湾人民真的很爱吃夜食哦。
逛著逛著,又走到了西门红楼,西门红楼是西门町町地标,又称八角楼、红楼剧场,经历了早期的日据时期到最近的多元风格时期,走过了整个西门商圈的繁华及兴衰。如今成为一个全新的文化中心,除演出活动外,进驻多家常驻的文化创意店家,深受文艺青年们的欢迎。只是我们去的时候,建筑外部在修复,用了外立面打印的遮布挡起来了,没有见到真颜有点可惜。就在里面逛了逛,一楼二楼大部分是文创小店,还挺好逛的。
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逛好回酒店的路上,看到好几家药妆店,进去逛了一下,女生的天性哈哈,和日本药妆店差不多,经常会有一些折扣,或是刷支付宝优惠什么的,台湾本地的面膜什么的还是很好买的。
Day11 台北自由行一
今天开始我们台北自由行的第一天。在台北的交通工具就是捷运(地铁),我们第一天到高雄的时候就在捷运站把悠游卡买好了,悠游卡是在台湾地区几乎可以通行的公共交通卡,尤其是在台北这样公共交通便利的城市游览非常必要。
今天的行程是先去酒店附近的剥皮寮老街区,然后去逛信义诚品书店。早上在酒店吃好早饭,步行大概15分钟就能走到剥皮寮老街。
酒店门口的拼图台湾地图很有意思~
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很市井的台北街头~
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剥皮寮老街
艋舺剥皮寮老街区位于万华区广州街、康定路及昆明街所包围之街廓,是万华老社群现存年代最为久远的清代完整老街,是清末艋舺通往古亭的主要交通干道。日占时期有高官的府邸在此。老街现在改造成文化历史展示中心,成为艋舺在地人的历史印记,也是台北人集体记忆的文化场所。漫步其间,甚至有一种穿越的感觉。我们去的时候,正好还赶上了一个台北儿童艺术节在此展览,看到了很多台北人小时候玩的玩具和场景,还蛮有意思的。
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吃:鸭肉扁
逛完剥皮寮,肚子饿了,就去吃鸭肉扁。鸭肉扁其实卖的不是鸭肉,而是鹅肉,是一家有六十多年历史的老店,就开在西门町,而且为了保质保量没有分店,就此一家。点了招牌鹅肉、胗、小菜、面条等等,味道还不错。
信义商圈、诚品书店旗舰店
下午没有特别的行程,来了台北总是要逛下诚品书店,我们就去了信义诚品旗舰店。这边真的是台北的市中心,市政府就在边上,还有台北101,高阶商场也是林立。对于喜欢逛商场的朋友还是很适合,而且我们去的时候正值夏天,之前跟着包车师傅玩的时候,还不觉得特别热,在台北都是公共交通,还要走路,白天在室外多待一会就觉得好热,所以躲在商场或者去诚品书店逛逛还是很不错的。晚上来这边也不错,商场之间的步行道上很多街头艺人表演,有唱歌、街舞、还有魔术,带着小朋友一个摊一个摊地看过来,也不觉得无聊。
信义诚品是诚品书店旗舰店,一整栋楼都是诚品的,不仅卖书,还有各种文具、玩具、家居用品,还有美食,整体很有书香氛围,和文化格调,而且这一家是24小时营业的,我们真的几乎在里面逛了半天,连晚餐都是在诚品楼下的美食街解决,吃了牛肉面。喜欢逛诚品的朋友一定记得来打卡哈。
Day12 台北自由行二
今天的行程比较丰富,先做捷运去逛大稻呈街区和码头,再去青田文艺街区,最后回西门町吃火锅,继续夜逛西门町。
大稻呈码头
大稻呈也是台北著名的老街区,就是昨天游览的艋舺剥皮寮繁盛之后兴起的街区,当时是非常繁华的地方,日本统治时尤为兴盛,是当时台北商业贸易的中心,更是人文荟萃之地。如今大稻呈已退下历史舞台,但留下了许多昔日无限风光的见证。老街上商铺依旧林立,南北货、药材、小吃店,据说每年过年,台北人还是会来这里购置年货。现在除了老铺子,还有年轻人在这里开文创店,甜品店,民宿等等。历史和年轻在这里碰撞交融,逛在其中感觉也不错。
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大稻呈码头在老街的尽头,现在已经褪去码头的色彩,成了市民休闲、游人观光的好去处,沿着码头有专门的跑道和自行车道,市民可以在这里跑步、骑行健身。
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吃:五郎爱吃的永乐担仔面
这家店本来不在今天计划内的,也是机缘巧合,在大稻呈老街逛的时候看到了,我就觉得特别眼熟,好像在哪里见过。仔细一想,原来之前看日版《孤独的美食家》里,五郎台湾特辑就在这里吃到了好吃的鸡肉饭。真的是意外之喜,赶紧进店来了一份五郎套餐,确实美味,不过在台湾真的吃的都不错,几乎没有踩雷经历,很多老字号都是兢兢业业一如既往地做着质朴的美味,慰藉人心。而且店家因为拍摄孤独的美食家火了之后,也没有就地涨价,还是一样做着日常的味道,到店来吃的食客,除了个别游客,大部分还是当地人,真正的有口皆碑的老店应该就是这样做出来的吧。
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秋惠文库
逛完大稻呈,我们特地去了这家历史文物咖啡馆。做捷运到东门站下车,出站不久就到了,店在二楼,从一个不起眼的入口进去坐电梯或楼梯就能到达。之前我还一直心里打鼓,为啥要专门跑去一家咖啡馆,进店之后就被震撼到了。眼光所到之处,都是感觉从久远时代而来的文物,不像我以往去过的任何一家咖啡馆,倒是错进了一家博物馆。了解之后才知道,原来这家店真的是老板陈列私藏收藏品的博物馆兼咖啡馆,秋惠文库中的秋惠,则是为了纪念老板的父亲林秋江母亲陈淑惠,而成立秋惠文库收藏台湾相关文献资料以纪念父母生前对于出生地挚爱的情感。真是有诗意啊。据说很多台北的文人雅士也喜欢在此聚会交友。这家店展品多,位子少,我们赶巧来了,还有最后一桌,后面的朋友就没位子了,说到座位,也不是一般咖啡店的座位,其实就是老家俱,我们坐的一张就是红木老圆桌,在上面喝咖啡喝饮料也莫名有了历史感。
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青田街区
接着我们就去了青田街区,青田街是一条很安静的街道,大部分是小住宅,还有一些日式宅院散落其间,走在路上仿佛有种在日本的感觉,除了住宅还有一些文创店、咖啡店、书店、陶艺古玩店、有特色的馆子等等,充满一股文艺的气息,和大台北其他地方高楼大厦、繁华街景不太一样。
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青田七六
逛著逛著就走到了青田七六,青田七六是青田街最著名的一处日式庭院式建筑,因位于大安区青田街7巷6号,所以叫青田七六。为1931年由足立仁教授,所兴建的居所,整栋建筑主要用桧木建成,屋内左侧为为接应室、书斋及食堂,其书柜、玻璃凸窗、户外的欧式花坛及前庭皆采洋式风格,整栋建筑融合了日式及洋式建筑优点。现在除了开放免费导览和科普活动之外,屋内客厅、饭厅、书房等也开放贩卖餐点及文创商品。
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我们到的时候正是下午,就进店点了些茶点、咖啡、冰淇淋,享用下午茶。茶点口味都不错,偏日式的,大家都觉得很好吃。
永康街
永康街离青田街很近,顺道也小逛了一下。永康街上也有很多老店,多数是美食店,因为前面在青田七六刚吃完下午茶,所以只是逛逛没有进店品尝。下次来还是要多留点胃里的空间,来尝尝。
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吃:西门町 马辣火锅
今天一天天气很热,在外逛了一天着实有点累,晚上就想来一顿火锅慰劳一下。这家店在西门町很有名,在大众点评上必吃榜第一名,自助式火锅限时2小时,一般需要预约,不预约就要排队,我们没有预约,但是为了好吃的火锅,排队了差不多1个小时。轮到我们,吃上火锅发现还是值得的,在台湾吃到这么火辣的火锅真的难得,牛肉都很不错,还有哈根达斯冰淇淋。唯一有一点不满意的是,空调开得实在太足,要知道正值酷暑夏日,我们在店里吃到瑟瑟发抖。
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吃完火锅真的有点撑,就继续在西门町逛逛消食,西门町也有诚品书店,爱诚品的伙伴又进去逗留了好久。
Day13 台北自由行三
今天是游玩台北的最后一天了,今天我们主要安排了去松山文创园,剩余的时间又去逛了诚品,没有太多目的地,比较随性。
吃:西门金峰卤肉饭
早上睡到自然醒,一行人慢慢悠悠11点多才出门,差不多又到了午饭点,先解决吃饭问题。西门金峰卤肉饭就在我们酒店同一条街上的不远处,也是台北吃卤肉饭比较有名的店之一,前几次尤其是晚饭饭点经过排队的人很多,我们中午稍早一点去就还好。旁边还有一家牛肉面店,人气也很旺,最开始想去那家吃,但那天好像休息,所以就换了隔壁的卤肉饭。一行人点了各点一份卤肉饭,再来几个小菜,卤肉饭确实不错,肉烂入口即化,饭混着肉汁也是很好吃,小菜也是不错。吃饱喝足就开始了今天的行程。
松山文创园区
松山文创园区前身为台湾总督府专卖局松山菸草工场,2001年被台北市政府将松山菸厂指定为市定古蹟。建筑风格属于日本初现代主义,形式简洁典雅,面砖、琉璃及铜钉做工精细,保留了历史韵味。现作为文化创意展演空间,里面分布许多创意工坊,可以制作手工艺品,还可以购买各种文创商品。不定期举办各种文艺展览,是台北年轻人最爱的文创园区之一。
园区里还是挺大的,因为之前是厂房,所以展览的空间也很空旷。当时去的时候没有什么特别想看的展,主要在“松烟小卖部”待了比较久时间,昔日的旧菸厂,今日的文创小卖场,这里集结了园区的服务中心、文创商品展售平台、复刻历史记忆区及轻食咖啡休憩区。古老的制烟空间转变为崭新的文创橱窗,清幽的菸草气味转变为浓郁的咖啡香气,体验松菸历史的同时还能感受文创设计。
有点可惜的是,今天大师带了相机,但是忘记带资料卡了,所以照片不多,只有我们其他小伙伴的照片看看了。
最后一天漫无目的随逛
松山文创园区逛完,小伙伴又想去逛诚品,正好附近有松山诚品生活,就又去逛了逛。诚品确实在台北有很多家,正好我们这几天去的地方附近也都有,松山诚品和信义诚品离的也不远,这附近也有很多商场,适合夏日炎热的天气进去逛逛吹空调。这家诚品也很大,不仅买书,更多是生活类产品,还有一家诚品行旅酒店,诚品粉可以来住住哈。这里还有一家春水堂,据说这家店奶茶是台湾奶茶的始祖,还点了一杯外卖,但印象不是特别深了,台湾奶茶比较深印象的还是一岚。(一岚后来也开到了大陆,但是“一岚”商标被人抢注,所以在大陆就改名为“一点点”了)
逛完这几店,又逛了几家商场,还和小伙伴去打卡了Ice Monster,炎炎夏日来一碗冰爽的冰沙,真的超级爽哦!逛啊逛,又逛到了信义诚品,诚品真的太好逛了,最后一天又开始买买买,本来不想买多少书的,但是还是忍不住买了几本,一直逛到下午晚餐时间,搜到舒淇开的餐厅KiKi Restaurant就在信义诚品,最后一餐就打卡了女神餐厅,也是吃得满意而归。
Ice Monster的冰沙真的好好吃哈~
Kiki餐厅的晚餐也只拍了一张手机图~
晚上从信义诚品出来,正好看到台北101在眼前~
今天晚上就早点回酒店收拾行李了。
Day14 台北–上海
今天就要回去了,我们是11点多的飞机,早上酒店吃好早饭,就往机场赶了,坐的捷运机场快线。留点时间到了机场再逛逛买点手办礼。
在台湾晃悠了大半个月,大家都玩得乐不思蜀、意犹未尽,到回去的时候就感觉时间怎么这么快,好像我们前一天刚从上海到高雄,哈哈,好像每次旅行的最后都是这样,只期盼下次再出发,多去看看这世界各地的美好。
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出行准备
下面就说一下关于这次旅行前期做的各项准备工作,包括办理通行证、签注,定机票、定酒店,还有一些旅游注意事项,包车注意事项等等。
证件:两证一签注
简单介绍下去台湾要准备的材料和注意事项哈(我们这次是纯自由行,准备材料可能只适用于大陆开放台湾自由行的地区,哪些市请自行检视)。总的来说,大陆居民要去台湾首先要有两证一签注,两证其中之一是中国大陆方面出具的往来台湾通行证,以下简称通行证(这个证之前是个类似护照的小本本,现在是一张身份证大小的卡,如果是小本本有效期是5年,如果是卡的话有效期是10年),另一个是台湾方面出具的台湾地区入出境许可证,以下简称许可证(单次使用,入境停留期限15天),一签注是大陆方面办理的大陆居民前往台湾签注(往返一次,自办理日半年有效)。因为我是第一次去台湾,4月份就去上海民生路的上海市公安局出入境管理处办理了通行证和签注,需要注意一下的是,首次办证需要预留半个月到一个月的时间,上海市市民出证出签注(首次办理出证出签注是一起的)是半个月时间,外地市民需要一个月。因为买去台湾的机票,需要通行证的证件号,如果是新办证件的话要预留好买机票的时间,还有办理台湾出具的许可证,也需要先办好通行证和签注,这也要预留一定时间。我们这次台湾许可证是朋友找旅行社办理的,大概10天出证,也很方便。如果之前已经办过通行证,且在有效期内,直接去公安出入境管理处办理签注,当天就可以出签注了,非常快。比起去一些免签的地区和国家,台湾要办两证一签注算是麻烦的了,但只要早点预留时间准备,其实也还好啦。
航班资讯
去程:2017.7.5. 上海浦东T2–高雄国际机场 9C8877 14:55-17:10
回程:2017.7.18. 台北桃园国际机场T1-上海浦东T2 9C8952 11:15-13:30
上海飞台湾一般2个多小时,还是很快的,但是去程赶上了大雨,延误的蛮久的,回程就很准时了。订机票需要登记通行证的证件号,所以没有通行证的朋友要预留时间先办证再买机票。
民宿与酒店
我们这次一共住了7家民宿和酒店,都是大师在booking上定的,台湾民宿很多,价格大都不是很贵,住宿体验也很不错,除了高雄、台北住的房间会稍微小一点,其他地方房间都很宽敞,风景也很不错。我们一行人5人,四大一小,我和大师一家住一间,熊姐姐、米小兔一家和Yvonne姐根据民宿安排,有些民宿房间大,有两个大床,或者可以加床,就可以3人一间,有些房间小,标间双床不能加床,就3人两间。
7.5-7.7(三房两晚) 高雄里昂,高雄左营区南屏路263巷58号,房费2943。
7.7-7.8(两房一晚)阿里山渊明居客栈,阿里山嘉义县竹崎乡中和村石棹4号,房费1485。
7.8-7.9(两房一晚)麋鹿遇见松鼠,仁爱荣光巷50-6号,房费2680。
7.9-7.11(三房两晚)道花莲民宿,花莲市中山路601巷1弄26号,房费2577。
7.11-7.13(三房两晚)阳光味宿,九份竖崎路56号,房费4855。
7.13-7.14(三房一晚)立德北投俩人旅店,台北北投区幽雅路11号,房费2622。
7.14-7.18(三房四晚)町记忆旅店,台北万华区昆明街119号,房费8342。
有些民宿需要用现金结账,所以这个在预定的时候要确定清楚哈
换汇
我们之前在上海有换一些台币,后来到了台北台币不够用,就在7-11便利店直接取现,这个还是蛮方便的。当时我们去的时候,很多店铺,尤其是老字号餐厅,还有山上的民宿都不能刷卡甚至支付宝,都只收现金,所以多备些现金是需要的。
交通
交通我们主要是两种,开始就是包车,因为之前大师去过一次台湾,第一次也是跟侯师傅包车,所以有微信,去之前他们通过微信联络确定了大部分包车行程,师傅本身也是有包车车队的,他们的车都是卡通胖胖车,很可爱很拉风哈。需要师傅联络方式的可以私信我。
在台北,我们主要是坐捷运,每人买了一张悠游卡(交通卡),做捷运很方便。
在台湾我们主要用的导航app是:maps.me和google map。
其他:
衣服:我们去的时候是夏天,多备几件好看的夏装拍照片,防晒霜也是必备,还有帽子、墨镜用来遮阳、凹造型都适合。中间几天在阿里山、清境农场,气温会比较低,尤其早晚,所以如果要上山,备一件春秋天穿的外套也是需要的。
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