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有惊无喜的出发
“这个世界,除了中国以外,在我眼中,只有两个地方,一个是日本,一个是其他地方。”
鉴于对去日本旅游的喜爱和已去过几次的经验,今年决定趁著两位母亲尚且玩得动,儿子也大些了,带上他们去日本玩玩。
出行人员——
沈先生:摄影摄像师,点菜负责人,本游记主笔;
宋小满:除摄影摄像点菜外一切杂事操办者,游记攻略干货补充者;
火龙果:时34个月男宝;
沈妈妈;
宋妈妈。
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定了全日空的飞机,想着能体验一下传说中的服务和美味的飞机餐。结果刚上飞机就遭遇“当头一棒”。升空一小时后机长称引擎故障,需要返回地面检修,于是又回到了杭州萧山机场。
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▲本冲动宝宝白羊座在此~从下午两三点一直折腾到近零点,几乎没有坐下过。要不是在日本订了昂贵的不可退款的房间,早就打道回府了~
立马联络了做机务的朋友,朋友说“恭喜,jackpot!不过也可能是只要电脑重置一下就好,很快又能飞了”。但事与愿违,在喝了一杯全日空提供的饮料后,我们下了飞机。这也意味着,维修过程会比较麻烦,无法短时间起飞。全日空发放了一人150元面值的餐券,在指定商户可以消费饮食,我们发现刚刚一起坐飞机的一群日本人言笑晏晏,喝着啤酒,一脸轻松。果然之后他们就消失不见了,只剩下中国人留着抗议。最后杭州ANA方面的日本负责人也露面了,西装笔挺,额头渗著细密的汗珠,有几个人大喊,别让他跑了!还好他不懂中文,但面对我们的英文质问和虎视眈眈,非常紧张,很快就汗流满面。最后的解决方案无外乎是改签和赔偿。
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走得快的几名乘客抢到了第二天凌晨1:45在浦东的航班,由于座位仅剩无几,我们是五口人,所以无缘此班航班,最终改到第二天上午10:20浦东的航班。每人赔偿200元延误费,400元去上海的交通费。不知道是不是我们这班滞留的人太多,连机场附近酒店都已住满无法安排,于是又给出了每人500元上限的住店指标,实报实销。这里播放一段小插曲,之前改签到凌晨那班飞机的旅客,乘坐的飞机又故障了,修了四个小时,五点才起飞,为此又收到每人500元的赔偿款……
总的来说上海飞也有好处:服务更人性化(会借给你婴儿车,还会让带婴童的乘客走特殊通道),赔偿也更多。地勤人员说这是ANA开社以来第二次碰到这样的情况,第一次还是几个月前。这是不是说明现在的飞机状况真的每况愈下?
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打车到上海花费900+,直接入住了浦东机场旁边的酒店。由于我们定的房间没有了,酒店免费升级到商务套房,虽然装修旧了一点,但着实豪华,感觉东京没去到,而是来上海旅游了。
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酒店的自助早餐很不错,还有免费送机服务。终于顺利起飞,这次是ANA老款的大飞机,昨天出故障的是新款的小飞机。旧款飞机的影音装置明显比新款的要逊色很多,以至于有了对比后我压根儿不想在大飞机上看视讯。这里特别要提到的是日本人飞机上演示急救措施的视讯,非常有创意,极富日本国特色,反正我是全程盯着看完了,下飞机的时候还会播放拍摄花絮,也不会让你在等待的时候感到无聊。
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▲ANA的机上服务还是没得说的,每个小朋友都能挑个小礼物。少年不识愁滋味啊!少了一天行程还那么开心的娃
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最后来说说全日空享誉全球的飞机餐。我吃到的是肥牛饭配水果,还有冷面,小点心,除了冷面没劲道不太好吃以外,其他都没有失望,特别吹一下肥牛饭的味道,几乎能赶上松屋了。
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▲全日空还有麒麟啤酒喝,真的是爱酒人士的福音啊!
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▲在飞机上看到的富士山。(此为4000万画素索尼A7R3的截图,居然还如此清晰,在此为索尼吹一波)
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终于见到了日本的陆地,不容易啊~
tips:
?记得提前在ANA官网或致电订儿童套餐,据说儿童套餐很不错,但我忘了订
?延误险什么的还是买一买吧,偏偏这次我也忘了订(我的脑呢?)
东京一夜
事先在淘宝上订了接机服务(因为飞机的问题,还加了加急的钱)。从成田机场直接到新宿又是1个半小时车程。这次订接机除了人多方便外,还想到的一点是司机能帮我们找到住的地方。新宿的下榻处是一家公寓的房间,说白了就是公寓房间改的民宿(公寓门上贴著禁止做民宿用,看来日本人也不太守规矩啊)。放了两张床一张榻榻米,刚好够四大一小“栖息”,条件是挺艰苦的,不过也就是睡一晚的事儿,经济实惠更重要。
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放下行李出门去已是傍晚。由于耽误了一天时间,原计划的台场是没的去了,最后决定去六本木大厦。走在路上发现已经是下班高峰期,于是选择先吃饭,再挤地铁。水产居酒屋的价格非常实惠,五个人消费了5000日元,感觉在国内已经是八百人民币的水准。虽然寿司,荞麦面和啤酒没有达到我预期标准,但还是很感动——终于吃上了!
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到达六本木大厦已经七点。52层的观景台是隔着玻璃观看东京夜景,55层则可以露天观赏夜景,但无法使用三脚架,所以我还是去52层吧。1800日元的套票,本来还能去旁边美术馆看看,但这个时间已经闭馆了。
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带着三脚架依然很难拍,因为52层有展览,灯光特别亮,玻璃反光一塌糊涂,幸好我遮光有一手,成功拍了一组。
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排队拍照的人很多,于是还没有思考太多就收了。倒是儿子在一旁玩得的不亦乐乎。话说这是一个有关动画电影如何制作的展览,从角色刻画,到场景设计,甚至是眼睛眉毛和表情的关系都能互动体验,真的很棒。儿子虽然还小,但也在那边玩了很久,让我们有时间好好拍照。
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转眼就到了十点,我这才一拍大腿想起来心心念唸的歌舞伎町没去。只能留个遗憾下次再去了。
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冷冷的冰雨在箱根
第二天大家几乎都睡到了自然醒,磨磨蹭蹭吃了昨天超市买的饭团当早餐才出门去箱根。在小田急百货一楼的西口和南口都能买车票和箱根周游券。强烈建议去西口!西口有会中文英文韩文的工作人员,可以根据你的行程帮你合理安排车票和周游券怎么买。重点是这车票怎么塞还有讲究,进去是塞这两张,出来是塞那两张。如果语言不通真的会晕。我们选择坐了浪漫特快列车,所谓浪漫其实就是指定席,少换乘一次。等车的时候遇到一位“多管闲事”的列车司机。他在路过我妈妈身旁时看到她手上的车票和候车点所在车厢不符,停下做了耐心的指导。尽管我多次来到日本体验这种热情,但毕竟一年一次,每每接受这种帮助,都是感动良久。
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中途在火车上吃了个箱根限定的蛋糕卷,不算很饿。到达箱根雕刻之森站,步行五分钟即可到达入住的青旅,已是下午两点。
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在车站旁的荞麦面店用餐,照例点了冷荞麦,非常有嚼劲。照例把葱和芥末全部放进酱汁,最后加入荞麦面汤,异常鲜美,天妇罗的味道也是我所熟悉的,心情大好。
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吃完后准备去坐箱根最知名的海盗船。先到达箱根汤本站,之后转登山电车爬坡去山顶。登山电车跟香港太平山顶的很像,都是走斜坡的,只不过日本这辆自始至终都在爬坡,索性把车内都改造成阶梯状。原本可以在山顶坐缆车,可惜最近火山活动,空中硫磺成分太高,缆车停运,只能改坐接驳巴士,去坐海盗船游览芦之湖。由于我们等的五点那班是当天最后一班海盗船了,担心错过就没有去纪念品商店一游。我很喜欢逛纪念品店,即使不掏钱购买,随便看看也是一种欣赏。
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一定要注意有些站台是双向通行的!车来时看清楚上面写的方向,我们因为坐错了方向所以又在小涌谷站逗留了会。
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还要注意,海贼船的最后两三个班次停留路线会与之前的有所不同。比如最后一班海盗船不能到达箱根神社,只能在前一站下船。当天箱根快要下雨了,傍晚的天空风云际会,我在甲板上拍照,被风吹的耳朵都疼,可惜非常遗憾没有看到富士山,只看到了水上的神社。
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下船换乘巴士加步行可以看到箱根神社,那边聚集了很多人排队打卡拍照,我们当然也不例外。到那边的时候已经六点,虽然现在将近夏至,但阴天的六点光线也已经很不理想,无奈只能硬拍,相信索尼,相信科学。
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打卡完毕后赶着去网红店吃晚饭,哪知赶到附近那边所有的餐饮店都打烊了。街上一片冷清,只有一家超市开着。下一班公交还有一段时间,就进去坐坐吃了一杯哈根达斯,225日元一杯,但感觉和八喜没太大差别……看着时间快到了,我们走向车站,出门一看,刚刚没看见的富士山竟远远地露出一角,于是赶紧换上长焦按了几张。公交车快来了,没时间上脚架但已是收获一份惊喜,心满意足。
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▲超市门口的摄像头上有鸟筑巢,鸟爸鸟妈来回扑腾喂食。
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回到青旅附近,只有一家叫“香华的”中华料理店还开着,并且只营业到八点半,我们吃饭的时候已经接近最后点餐时间。这家店之前看到评价不错,虽然是中华料理,但味道和我们在国内吃的盖浇饭到底还是不一样的,好评。
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夜晚的箱根风雨交加,直到第二天仍没有停止,看到如此之大的雨完全不想出门。但青旅不含早,只能冒雨出去买早餐,顺便拍几张照片。
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在罗森给家人外带几个饭团,自己吃方便面,味道一般。烤鸡皮串还不错,箱根特色的铜锣烧好评。
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在民宿用完早餐后,两位妈妈表示想去强罗公园看绣球花(因为车站里贴的海报很吸引人),于是冒雨出游,再次雨中拍照。强罗公园虽然不大,但里面各种从未见过的植物,建筑也很别致。只可惜大风大雨大降温,两位妈妈把带来的能穿的衣服都穿上了,加上暖宝宝还是有寒意。我也拍照状态有些不佳,因为鞋子已经可以养鱼了……重点是,我们并没有看到绣球花还是之后在伊豆路边看到的多……
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中午本想去吃一家网红店,无奈排队的人太多,下雨天还只能在雨中等位,鞋子难受的我心情暴躁,于是随便换了一家吃荞麦面,顺便品尝了箱根限定的啤酒,老板还很热情地送了一份甜品。
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感觉没吃饱,回到住宿附近又想去再吃一点。那边有一家“御食事处殿”,感觉名字比较高阶,所以想走到近处看看选单。结果刚走到门口,老板把几位顾客送出店门,顺便很热情地迎我进去。看了选单,我觉得实在没什么特别想吃的,但看到老板年事已高,和老婆婆共同支撑这家小店,不忍离去,就又点了一碗山药荞麦面,其实就是多配了一份山药泥,价格亲民,味道一般。之后几天我再也不想吃荞麦面了……
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下午只能瘫在酒店听雨声,无聊到睡着。本想去泡个一日归的温泉,又实在不想刚吹干的鞋子又溼透。这么冷的天气真想泡一个下午的露天风吕不出来啊!又或是在某个精致的小店坐一天。这里简单评价一下这家青旅。大房间五个人铺榻榻米经济实惠,木质结构为主,移门搭配纸窗格,很古朴的味道。公共区域有懒人沙发,简易吧台。住住还是挺舒服的,此刻只遗憾缺了一个温泉。
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▲无聊就啃啃脚
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▲无聊就拍拍照
晚上更懒得出门觅食,直接定了青旅的自制dinner:烤鱼加一点罐头食物,自助米饭和味噌汤,1000日元一个人。相对来说还是比较便宜的,毕竟外面店里一小碗米饭就要卖你300日元……烤鱼是杀好洗净醃好的,需要自己烤。有金目鲷,鯵鱼和𫚕鱼三种鱼。不会做菜的我一展烧烤的身手,获得好评。晚上一度雨停,之后又风雨交加。
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你好,雕刻之森。再见,箱根
第三天一早,狂风呼啸,但总算迎来了阳光,窗外树木摇曳,白云流动。我们把昨日的行程补上,参观雕刻之森美术馆,这里是少见的户内户外结合设计精妙的美术馆,各种造型的雕塑散落各处,还有毕加索作品展,令人大开眼界。两个小孩的游乐设施也是又有创意又好玩。儿子最终不舍地哭着离开
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▲上面透明的装置艺术既漂亮又是小朋友可以攀爬的场地。分0-6岁和6-12岁两个区域。
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▲这张树影下,铺满青苔和斑驳阳光的石桌是我整个馆内的最爱。太有感觉了~旁边其实还有个小雕像,简直是神在开会的场地。
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▲里面有免费泡脚的足汤。再秀一波偶像。
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▲正在修缮的毕加索馆。
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▲上面那个建筑里面就是小孩另一个撒欢的天地啦~
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▲部分纪念品
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中午在箱根汤本的车站附近吃饭。作为一个大中转站,那里相对比较繁华,道路两旁都是餐饮小吃和伴手礼店。
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用大众点评选择了一家叫“山贼粥”的烤肉店。店在二楼,楼梯窄且陡,我们行李箱加推车搬上去实属不易。谁让日本的烤肉一直让我心心念念呢~不仅醃制到位,更重要的是他们的肉是肉的味道和口感,当然日本烤肉的价格也不菲。但我最想吃的还是店里的粥,于是硬点了一份牛杂锅,这样才能配米饭煮成粥。牛杂锅里的食材是包菜配牛肠,包菜煮了很久依然脆爽。吃的差不多以后加饭,牛肠的香味和味噌的鲜味全部融入到米饭中,相当满足。
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饭后到小田原站继续转车去往热海。其间我一直抱怨“为什么不能顺路去看看小田原城”,老婆表示“你又不喜欢北条家”,悻悻然。这次其实是佛系旅行,考虑到小孩还小,无法高度配合紧张的行程,所以没有安排很多景点。
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遇见热海的烟火祭
到达热海先走去东横inn酒店,又令我想起2019在米原住的东横。依旧是离车站近,价效比高,只不过这里的价格比米原贵了近一倍。热海车站旁有一个“家康の汤”,相传德川家康路过此地曾在这里泡脚解乏,我们到的时候池子里是干的,老婆戏称其倒灶了。
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(不过第二天来就有汤可泡了~)
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今天有期待已久的夏日花火祭,可以选择在游船上或者海岸边观赏。由于我要拍照,加上等我们去观光案内所咨询时出海的名额已满,最后还是选择海岸边。由于在饭点出门,几家人气高的店无一例外要等位,为此心烦不已,还好最后找到一家装修考究的小店坐下,东西并不便宜,但食物上桌以后证明了一分价钱一分货。
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饱腹以后走到海边找了一个阶梯坐下,有些带了地垫的人直接去沙滩上坐着。我们到的时候还早,并没有很多人,等到晚上八点二十快开始的那会儿,已经熙熙攘攘。第一枚烟花腾空而起的时候众人欢呼,我却暗叫不好,因为此处并非拍照的理想之地。于是我到处腾挪,最后确定了一个相对理想的位置。
这次花火祭我有特别多的感想:第一,我觉得烟花好难拍。这几年来因为空气污染,国内城市禁止燃放烟花爆竹,所以我对拍烟花经验不足,那些宣传海报上缤纷的烟花和美丽的和服小姐姐到底是怎么拍出来的呢?第二,日本的烟花密集程度虽然不及中国,但燃放产生的烟雾远远少于中国,如此近的距离没有闻到丝毫硫磺味,也没有因为遮天的烟雾影响了观赏的质量。第三,离场时保持清洁,有序退场。
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随着人潮慢慢往回走,慢慢从一大波人变成只剩我们几个,喧嚣终要回归平静。
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tips:
建议上东横官网订酒店,有中文,不用翻墙,非常方便。
//www.toyoko-inn.com/china_cn/index.html
热海花火大会的时间可以在网上查询,提前安排行程。
//www.ataminews.gr.jp/event/8/
MOA美术馆让你明白创教的好
今天早上先去参观MOA美术馆。
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想去这里的原因是美术馆的介绍中称藏有丰臣秀吉的黄金茶室。一来我想亲眼目睹,二来顺便给儿子薰陶。热海是一座海边山城,美术馆建在山上,门前的广场相当于一个观景平台。这里要通过三段电梯长廊才能进入美术馆内部,整个场馆恢弘大气,内部有许多落地窗,适合观景拍照。
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这里主要展出的是江户时代静冈县的一些人文风貌的画作,像是一个个拆分开的小清明上河图。
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当然我只关心自己想看的丰臣秀吉黄金茶室,真正的茶室已经在大阪夏之阵中被毁(可恶的家康),此处是根据当时描绘所造的复制品。可惜儿子对这里的一切都不感兴趣,包括我想要薰陶他的黄金茶室。
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最后值得一提的是这座美术馆是一个名叫“世界救世会”的教会大佬出资建造的。总之你看到这座美术馆,就知道这个教会是多么的有钱了。
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▲看到了一堆价值不菲的小杯子,特别是单独陈列的那个杯子,一个一万块人民币~
回到热海站解决午饭。正值饭点,到处满座,又挑了一个生僻的小店坐下。没什么顾客,但店里设施“很高阶”,ipad点餐,dyson空气净化机。餐点的价效比不高,虽然那块金目鲷的鱼肉还挺新鲜的。
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tip:
别信导航,多问人!热海站内就是观光案内所,旁边就是一个公交车枢纽,基本的景点都能到达。用google导去MOA的路,竟然是要坐车+步行20几分钟,差点就信了它的邪……明明就有公交车直达。
泡在星野RISONARE的蓝色里
吃完午饭差不多时间,就能直接在热海站门口乘坐酒店接驳车去往星野集团在热海的RISONARE酒店入住,这是一家大型亲子主题的高阶酒店(嗯,就是因为这家酒店已经付了钱,所以才硬上了飞机)。
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一个房间有五六十平米,住四大一小非常宽敞。并且每个房间都是海景房。
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酒店二楼有森林探险区域,这里有制作水枪、丛林攀爬等一些游戏,但都需要预约。儿子看到有水枪玩本来很开心,结果被告知约满,有些失落。工作人员马上给他一张小卡片和贴纸,告诉儿子可以按著小卡片上的提示,沿着丛林小道一路寻觅,找到各专案标,贴上相应的贴纸,连成线就能领取神祕礼物。儿子立刻兴高采烈地出发了~整个过程没有难度,最后服务员会拿出一个大宝箱,亲切地开启奖励孩子两颗糖果(我看到这个场面其实是崩溃的,那么大个箱子就给两颗小糖)。但儿子非常开心,因为他享受这个过程,也能拿到自己一直没有吃过的糖果。第二天离开前还又去玩了次,回家后还唸叨著以后还要去玩寻宝游戏。
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之后又去了泳池。健忘的老母亲只记得带了儿子的泳衣,其他人的都没带……还好泳池前能租借游泳衣,500日元,不算贵,泳圈可以免费借。泳池一大一小,大的可以亲子共游。小的水非常浅,小孩单独站立没有问题,还有一个小滑梯。
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游完泳儿子又赶到海洋球池玩。妈妈顺便拍个臭美照。
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此外这里还有攀岩设施,分为年龄较大的孩子和年龄较小的宝宝两个区域。
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玩得正酣时,酒店也来询问用餐时间了。这次我们定了酒店内的怀石料理,一是考虑到自助餐长辈们不方便也吃不了多少,二是难得奢侈一把开心一下。喜爱日料的我也是第一次品尝,感受这环境,美食,情感三者合一的融洽。
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晚上回到房间拍了一组夜景,接着去二楼泡了个温泉,这里有半露天风吕,可以观看热海夜景。
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第二天我预备拍个日出,查了一下软件,显示4:28日出,我不知道大家信不信,总之我没有信,闹了五点的闹钟。结果4:35我自然醒,发现窗帘已经透光,等我架好机器做好准备工作已经错过最佳时机。
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酒店的自助早餐相当不错,不过因为要迁就儿子睡觉,最后只有半个小时的用餐时间。
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吃完早餐,又去顶楼的沙滩书吧打了个卡,便准备退房了。酒店五名工作人员送住客上巴士,微笑着挥手送别,巴士绕行一圈,只见他们又移步至大门处挥手致意。巴士司机是七十岁以上的老人,下车还帮忙搬运沉重的行李。每当此时我都会想,为什么日本人能坚持微笑坚持服务那么多年,这样旺盛的精力到底是什么支撑的。
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tip:
酒店官网预订地址:
//www.hoshinoresorts.com/zh/resortsandhotels/risonare/atami.html
内部部分娱乐活动需要预约。
没有舞女的伊豆
中午从热海坐伊东新干线到伊豆高原,很多段路都可以看到大海,那天天气很好,大海是深蓝色的。我们定的民宿离车站不远,只不过有很多坡道,拉着行李箱推著推车,到达的时候已是气喘吁吁。
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▲总觉得抓到一个我们的旅费就赚回来了
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民宿老板是一对来自东京的夫妇,据说是厌恶喧嚣,欣求平和,才来到这里开了民宿。房间很有家的感觉,洗浴卫生间也很干净。房间还有很多老板布置的小细节。
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中午我们在民宿附近的本家鲔屋就餐。这家店的食物不便宜,但做得相当有品质,令我印象深刻,使用民宿老板提供的券点酒能优惠100日元。
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下午去了这里的著名景点城崎海岸。其实这条海岸线很长,在“伊豆高原”站前专门有“城崎海岸”站,我们没去。在老板的推荐下,我们步行二十分钟不到,去观赏其中三个连在一起的小景点。经过几条小路,有些有意思的店铺。
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▲这里貌似是个人偶博物馆
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▲找不到路的时候,一位正在修剪院子的老奶奶主动给我们指路。虽然语言实在不怎么通,但她还是很努力解释,感动~
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▲我注意到一家叫“花吹雪”的酒店,虽然这里门可罗雀,但那种幽静的气质就给人感觉很高阶。旁边地上还立著个可爱的“化妆菩萨”
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▲一家晚上营业的华人饭店“顽张轩”(古怪的名字)。
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▲Kenny’sHouse,也算是那边的网红冰淇淋店了,老板推荐我们尝一尝。
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▲路边赫然一只羊。也不知道是宠物还是原料
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路过一条绿廕庇日的小溪,这条小溪就是景点“对岛之泷”的源头,这个景点是一条小溪分岔成两条瀑布注入海中,当地还为此建了一个观景台。我上去一看,虽然能看到水流,但并不能看到瀑布全景,并且乱石枯枝到处都是,不明白为何要花力气造这个平台。
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第二个景点是大淀小淀,但这一天我只是在上方简单地看了一下,因为没注意到还有路可以走到下方。
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第三个景点是“桥立之桥”,反正这些名字都挺奇怪的就是了。吊桥上风很大,但钢索固定显得非常安全。我在吊桥上放出无人机,由于树木茂密,海风巨大,我小心翼翼,紧张不已。阴天的效果不怎么理想,加上风大飞机不好控制,感觉已经花光今年航拍的幸运份额。
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晚餐民宿老板和我们约了五点半BBQ,外国人很守时,我晚了几分钟到,他们已经开始烤鱼了,随后是一波烤蔬菜,最后由我们自己烤牛排。感觉老板的烧烤技术还不如我,一定程度上都烤焦了,于是我再显身手,把牛排烤好了。
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▲狗狗瞎叫,被禁言了
第二天和老板约了早上去海岸边遛狗。其实我除了工作很少早起,这天六点起床赴约让我精神压力不小,晚上没睡好。六点半我准时出现在楼下,老板已经解放了他年迈的不大不小中黑狗,套上狗绳,注意人家在农村遛狗也是用狗绳的。晨起遛狗的收获就是老板带我发现了大淀小淀的“祕密通道”,可惜我没有带广角镜头和滤镜,只能意思一下拍几张踩个点。这天早上的阳光真的很好,几乎没有风,我刚想放飞我的无人机,没想到老板说八点吃早餐,我们差不多可以回了。此时我很无奈,因为在摄影师眼里创作是第一位的,老板的观念还是守时——我要按时回去烧早饭,你也得按时来吃早饭。没办法,就硬生生错过了这份阳光。
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大人小孩都新奇的仙人掌动物园
今天早餐是饮料配烤面包,蔬菜汤,圣女果,培根煎蛋。日本人台湾人搞的小酒店小民宿早餐都很可口。
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早餐后,带着儿子饱饱地去逛仙人掌动物园。动物园的门面小得就像一个幼儿园的门口似的,五颜六色,有几个动物塑像摆着供游客拍照,由于太不起眼恕我没拍。进了大门一位工作人员大叔说我们带着推车很不方便,执意要开车送我们去售票处。结果我还没坐稳,就被告知要下车了,我一脸懵逼回头一看,真的就一百米不到的路。虽然说坡有点陡,但不得不说日本人真的太贴心了。
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动物园门票成人要2300日元。我心里嘀咕著这么个门面的动物园要收我2300的门票,我去德川家康的二条城也只要600。进去看过以后,真心觉得这门票物有所值,这个门面不起眼的动物园,把钱都花在了内部建设。
这里有无数的仙人掌多肉植物,不仅有露天的,还有在温室里的,各种造型姿态令我大开眼界。这里的动物几乎都是没有攻击性的,所以你可以无限接近它们。
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▲有一种叫水豚的巨型老鼠,是这里的明星。好多只就一脸萌萌地躺在那里让你摸。
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▲走着走着迎面而来一只孔雀,它高冷地从我们身边踱过。虽然上图有一张与孔雀的合影,其实这是百里挑一抓拍的。别看它一点都不怕生,可以随意接近,但还是不敢下手去摸。并且它们非常自由,完全不会像奈良的鹿停下来摆好pose跟你拍照。
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▲这只灰色的大鸟是!真!的!它就站着梳理自己羽毛,我走到一米开外拍照它也没有要跑的意思。
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▲天冷的时候水豚会在上面这两个地方泡露天温泉。但是我们去的时候阳光正好,它们当然选择晒太阳啦~
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▲很多仙人掌的名字都很日式中二风~
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▲看到这些仙人掌莫名大笑的娃
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▲很多多肉组合成的窗框装饰品
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▲里面有一个仙人掌工艺品店,从挑盆,到挑各种仙人掌,再组合搭配,都是自助式的,跟吃麻辣烫似的
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本来这里主要是带儿子来体验的,结果我这样不喜欢逛动物园的人也觉得津津有味。但儿子一如在长隆野生动物园的状态,走马观花,丝毫没有想和这里如此可爱的动物互动的想法,以至于我根本无法好好给他拍一张照片。算了,我们都开心就好。
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这里再建议下,对食物有追求的朋友还是不要选择在动物园里面的餐厅吃饭。
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伊豆的山,伊豆的海
仙人掌动物园的对面就是另一重要景点——大室山。大室山以前是座火山,现今不再活动,长满了植被,变成了景点。上山无路可走,只能坐“无壳”缆车。日本人很聪明,把缆车设计成“贴地飞行”,这样恐高的人就不会觉得是悬在万丈深渊上。山顶的活动区域其实很小,我就是来拍照的,但当天能见度不佳,原本可以看到的富士山没见踪影,就连远处的海也隐约不可见。我还期待着等一段时间能有所改善,结果飘来一层雾气,直接啥都看不见了,索性来了一段延时摄影。
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之后看天气转变无望,只能拍几张作罢,然后和其他游客一样绕着曾经的火山口走一圈便下山了。
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回到民宿后时间还早,还是想去大淀小淀那里重游。老婆一直要顾著儿子,也没怎么拍照,于是就拖上她一起去。到了那里时间也不早了,太阳已经照不到了,只能将就著拍几张风光,主要是给老婆拍拍人像。以前出来旅游很执著于风光,还买了价格不菲的滤镜系统。后来想通了,人家拍风光都是一蹲个把月,扛个大画幅数码后背啥的。我一个旅游个把小时,就带个135相机的,没必要追求完美,认真拍好就行了。拍摄是一个很复杂的过程,一直从五点拍到了六点半,老婆表示不愿意拍了(真正拍的时间可能也就大半个小时),为了赶回去赴晚饭,只能收工。想请她第二天早上(不,是清晨)再来拍几张,死活不肯。有时候作为一个摄影师真的挺恍惚的,别的人恨不得有个会拍照的男友,可这里就是有人拥有了却不珍惜。
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▲空无一人的海岸边是从这条又窄又陡的路下来的。
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晚上吃锅物。先来了几份开胃小菜,然后就是蔬菜猪肉锅,相当大份,味道也不错。食物吃得差不多以后在锅里下饭,味噌收汁以后太咸,加上量实在太足,每人又吃了两碗以后实在吃不下了,颇为惋惜。
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第二天早上想三游大淀小淀,起床一看天气不太理想,依然没有阳光,想想该拍的风光照都拍到了,也就不必多走这一趟了。
吃完早餐结账返回东京,觉得两顿晚饭还是略超心里价位,人均2500日元一位,和在外边店里消费没啥区别。最后我们和老板商量帮我们把两位长辈和娃还有行李送到车站(上坡很多,但开车两分钟),行李太多塞不下,我们两个自己步行,老板收取我们500日元劳务费。
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tip:
凭大室山门票去买仙人掌动物园的门票,可以打9折还是几折来着。我们先去的动物园再去的大室山。后来抱着试试看的心态去动物园售票处说明了情况,人家很爽快地给退了打折的钱。
过客东京,后会有期
一路奔回东京,这里要吐槽一下google地图不靠谱。之前就瞎规划,明明有车让我们步行,今天导航餐馆还瞎导。话说这次五年后的东京旅行让我感到东京人均素质等级下降了,到哪哪都不会说英文,餐馆服务生和路人就罢了,就连免税商店的人英文都一塌糊涂。
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下午的购物之旅先到了阿卡酱给娃买东西。这个购物点是老婆期盼已久的,就等著来这里剁手买买买。锦系町的阿卡酱占了商场的一层,但说实话东西没有想象中得那么多,可能是需要的东西没想象中得多。这里的东西更多地适合小月龄的宝宝。
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▲离晴空塔(还是天空树)步行可达。
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▲其它没太大收获,但买了个大件——推车。不过旧的推车无法在日本直接扔了,最终还是人肉揹回来了。
之后去了药妆店,再到百货商场,整个购物过程我只买了一盒发泥,看看为主,也几乎没怎么拍照。晚餐在商场顶楼解决,本想吃烧鸟,结果告知我到八点以前都没有位置了,这次旅行吃饭也很背,想吃啥啥都要等,最后去了一家寿司店,长辈一看选单又开始心疼钱,执意要去楼下买蛋糕面包,当看到蛋糕面包的价格以后,又挺后悔为什么不在楼上吃一点……时间悄悄流逝,最终赶在9:45坐上去机场边的成田豪景酒店,因为远离市区,所以价格还是便宜的。
tip:
从银座或东京站去成田机场,或机场附近的酒店有大巴直达。具体资讯可检视网站:
//accessnarita.jp/cn1/home/#top
第二天早上七点二十五搭乘酒店接驳巴士,八点到达成田机场,开始逛免税店,感觉成田机场的免税店也不是特别大,还不如浦东机场。特别想买一个天狗面具,最终还是没有下手,很多东西说不上有什么实际用途,可能就是想要吧。
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回去又坐了新款ANA飞机,心有余悸,还好平稳度过。看了一路的日本旅游节目,憧憬一下接下来的旅程。这次日本之行的安排其实挺好,但总感觉意犹未尽,可能自己还是向往紧凑纷繁的旅程吧……
日本,后会有期。
附录:箱根地图/周游券/海贼船相关资讯
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▲海贼船的时间务必看清楚,最后几班路线和之前的不一样。
附录:雕刻之森美术馆宣传页
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附录:热海地图/热海城/来宫神社宣传页
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附录:伊豆泰迪熊博物馆宣传页
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本文章将原文转贴为繁体中文方便阅读