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搁置了两年半的游记我以为我会放弃,还好我没有。
不是因为不想写,而是因为不知道应该用什么样的语言和心情来纪念这九天的心情。
如果说有延长人的主观生命的办法,那么旅行一定是最棒的途径之一。的确,这九天的经历足足可以让我回味好一阵子。
没来小岛之前,对她的了解大部分都来自于教科书或者电视上,以为那里只有阿里山和日月潭。
老公说台湾一直都是他最想去的地方,我也不知道到底哪里好,既然他喜欢我就愿意陪着他一起去。
于是,台湾就成为了我们蜜月的首选地,也开启了我们甜蜜生活的新篇章。
先来一组预热图吧~
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如果没来小岛,我不知道这里的景色这样丰富;如果没来小岛,我不知道这里的人们这样可爱,如果没来小岛,我想我可能会遗憾一辈子。
来过的朋友见过的景色其实都大同小异,但因为各自经历不同所以我们的视角和感受自然不同。
具体的攻略细节确实有点记不清了,我呢就和大家分享一下心情和感受吧~
2015.3.29 奔向小岛(北京-高雄)
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大陆居民如果去台湾需要办理通行证和入台证,因为每天入台名额有限,所以入台证建议大家提早办理。
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已经在小岛的上空,下面是整整齐齐的稻田。
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抵达桃园机场,第一件事就是取台币。
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排队入关,人多但有秩序。
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从机场出来,坐的高铁接驳车到达高铁桃园站,买到左营(高雄)。
买高铁票的时侯印象特别深刻,工作人员态度特别好,而且找零钱的时侯都会放在一个小皮夹上面给你,耐心的回答所有问题,全程面带微笑~
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高铁上的套餐,价格也不算贵。
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高雄酒店订的是康桥商旅,就是普通连锁酒店。
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走在高雄街道上,繁体字、满大街的小电动,一切都好新鲜,莫名的兴奋~
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高雄的第一站——“西子湾”。
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西子湾位于高雄市西侧,在清朝初年期间,名为“洋路湾”、“洋子湾”,又名为“斜湾”,在闽南语的谐音引申下变成了“斜仔湾”,后来就变成了“西子湾”。
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西子夕照为台湾八大胜景之一。
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西子湾畔有国立中山大学、蒋公纪念馆、高雄史蹟文物陈列馆。史蹟文物陈列馆原为前清打狗英国领事馆遗址,号称是全台湾第一栋洋楼。西元1860年《北京条约》开放了台湾包括打狗、安平、淡水、鸡笼四个港口,英国率先在台设立领事馆,至1864年英领事馆自淡水迁至打狗。
高雄开发的很早,与台南、北港、嘉义、麻豆等地并称为台湾历史最悠久的地方。这里最早是平埔族原住民(马卡道族)的居住地,因盛产竹子得名“takau”(平埔族语,意为竹林),汉语音译为“打狗”,“打狗”便是高雄最早的名称。日治初期,日本人认为“打狗”这个地名不雅,便将地名改为“高雄”,因日语之“高雄”发音为“taka-o”,与“打狗”之音相近。
领事馆位于高雄港口北岸的鼓山上,东侧、西侧及南侧都紧临陡峭的悬崖,北侧连线鼓山,形成背面靠山、三面环水的形势,是当时英国领事馆官邸,是领事居住及接待使节宾客的重要场所。现在开放给游客,而且有非常好吃的下午茶!
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暮色中的西子湾也别有一番味道。
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在这里能听到台湾当地人高谈阔论著政治,忆往昔打狗情怀。
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后文艺复兴时代的巴洛克式风格,红砖的外观、竹节落水管都是清朝末年当时的建筑特色,为英国人所设计,特殊的花栏、石雕和圆拱都是打狗英国领事馆的不同之处。
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夜台湾很热闹,大家都有吃宵夜的习惯~
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处处都尽显文艺的气氛。
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噔蹬蹬蹬~这就是传说中全世界排名第二的最美丽的地铁站~
美丽岛站是以1979年12月10日在此地爆发、震惊台湾社会和影响民主运动发展的美丽岛事件为名。本站由日本建筑师高松伸所设计,以祈祷为主题象征。车站内部之公共艺术作品—光之穹顶,乃由意大利艺术家水仙大师(Narcissus Quagliata)亲手打造。
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来高雄,怎能错过全台湾最大的摩天轮——高雄之眼呢?
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对于一个恐高的人来说,不怕各位笑话,这真是我二十多年来第一次坐摩天轮。。。
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在高雄之眼上可以一览整个高雄的夜景。
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晚上11点,正是热闹的时候,要想了解小岛真正的文化和民俗,夜市是你必来的。
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“在台湾,几乎每座城市都有夜市。夜市已经不单单只是专属的小吃天地,无论是传统的、新潮的、吃喝玩乐统统都可以在这里找到,这不仅仅是一种文化,一种实惠的消遣,更是一种最为贴近的生活习惯。”
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冲绳酥炸大鱿鱼,料超足,老板娘超热情~
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臭豆腐依然是我的最爱~
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奶茶好好喝~
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夜市的小吃种类繁多,看起来都非常干净卫生,给我惊喜的不仅仅是食物的美味,更是一种文化和素质。即便卖货老板知道你是从大陆来旅行的,也不会坑你,当你买东西付钱的时候,老板都会发自内心感恩的说声谢谢!这一声谢谢,会让你的心里暖暖的~
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吃饱喝足到酒店已经是凌晨,好好睡一觉明天继续~
2015.3.30 高雄-垦丁
酒店的早餐还是非常丰富的,而且一早就有很多新鲜热带水果,心情很美丽~
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吃过早餐,出发去垦丁。
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从高雄站坐台铁到枋寮站。
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到达枋寮站,再坐垦丁快线大巴到垦丁,大巴一个半小时左右,吃了晕车药,加上一路风景美,所以路上没有吐。
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垦丁订的是垦丁大街的有名民宿金沙湾,老公半年前就定好了顶层的VIP房间,虽说是民宿因为环境好所以价格不便宜,一晚大概七八百人民币吧,但会让你觉得物有所值。
民宿老板娘是两个孩子的妈咪,但看起来一点都不像。后来我发现台湾很多麻麻看起来都特别年轻,而且每个家庭都不只一个宝宝。
当时已经是中午,但一般都是下午3点才可以check in,所以把行李寄存在前台,出去觅食。
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很多家饭馆都是下午才开始营业,我们就在垦丁大街随便找了一家先吃点,名字好像叫做大玉食堂。吃过饭,去大街上转了转,租了一辆小电动,一天半200人民币左右。
回到民宿,已经可以办理入住了~开森~
我们的房间在顶层4楼,所有的鞋子都要放到一楼的楼梯口,老板娘非常好客的帮我们提行李。
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屋内特别特别干净舒服,当时已经有点晚,加上着急出去玩儿所以没顾上多拍,之后会上细节图。
下午的路线是垦丁东线~
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第一站是鹅銮鼻公园,它位于台湾最南端,为台湾八景之一。灯塔是公园的标志,有东亚之光的美誉,是世界少有的武装灯塔。
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台湾最南点标志~
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沿着鹅銮鼻一路向北就到了龙磐公园,说是公园,其实里面并没有开发,很原始的山崖,就在路边,沿着一条小路进去以后就来到了壮观的悬崖边。
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站在至高点,俯瞰太平洋,真的是太震撼!
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其实原计划是要去风吹沙的,但走到一半遇到了修路,所以只能原路返回,可是没想到居然误打误撞偶遇了水蛙窟。
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水蛙窟(Shuiwaku)位于风吹沙附近,是一个以种植牧草为主的小村落,所以村子周围有一大片美丽的牧草。说起这个地方的地名由来,是由于早期村庄内有个水潭,终年蛙鸣不断,故称作“水蛙窟”,但后来水潭渐渐枯竭,青蛙也因此消失,如今居民与垦管处合作,着手恢复生态环境希望能重新让蛙鸣响彻水蛙窟 ~
回到酒店已经傍晚,因为阴天,所以也没有落日可看啦~
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从我们的阳台望出去就是海~
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最爱大阳台的两个躺椅。
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晚饭是在垦丁大街的台湾家常小炒解决的,味道很赞,现在去一个地方都要尝一下当地的啤酒🍺
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垦丁夜市~放眼望去全是好吃的😋
作为一个血统纯正地道的东北妹子,我为什么对台湾小吃这样热爱,已经到欲罢不能的地步!
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夜店门口很嗨,不过真心不感兴趣。
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夜市的水果100台币(20rmb)3小袋,芭乐撒上梅子粉,真的是好吃到爆!
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做个面膜美美的,晚安啦~
2015.3.31 猫鼻头&后壁湖
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楼下的垦丁大街。
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大浴缸棒棒哒🎉
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民宿大堂,客人的鞋子整齐摆放在楼下~
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民宿外景~
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早上一般都没店开门,早饭就在附近小摊随便吃一口。
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今天的任务还是绕着东线玩儿。
后壁湖是一定要去的地儿!因为那里有海鲜市场,都是早上渔民刚打回来中午直接卖的,既新鲜有便宜!
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来的有点早都还没开门,我们就先去猫鼻头转转~
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猫鼻头位于恒春半岛的东南岬,介于台湾海峡和巴士海峡的交界处,与鹅銮鼻形成台湾最南之两端。
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猫鼻头半岛地势西高而东低,受海蚀、盐渍及风化影响特别强烈,以隆起的珊瑚礁海岸为主,有海蚀沟、海蚀壶穴、海蚀礁柱等造就当地鬼斧神工的自然地形,也成为看海观石的好去处。
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猫鼻头名称的由来,乃因岩岸旁一块突出的珊瑚礁岩,其外型像蹲坐的猫而得名。其实,跟鹅銮鼻一样,猫鼻头也是一块从附近海崖崩落后滚到海边的珊瑚礁岩。
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阿兴生鱼片!
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我们是第一个来的!来晚了就要排队了哦~
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生鱼片20rmb一份的生鱼片要不要这样!!!
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鲜鱼汤也好好喝!
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单独加了一份三文鱼。
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这个野菜叫山苏,好吃没话说!
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吃光光~
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人开始多起来。
人开始多起来。
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酒足饭饱,回去睡个午觉,下午继续耍~
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昨天的天气太不给力,都没看到蓝蓝的太平洋,于是今天除了去风吹沙,又去了一次龙磐公园和水蛙窟~
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连路都这样文艺~
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人与动物友善相处,有爱的提示牌~
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船帆石位于位于垦丁国家公园与鹅銮鼻之间海岸边,是一大块珊瑚礁岩,因其岩质较附近隆起的珊瑚礁坚硬,故能长期屹立在海中。此珊瑚礁岩高约50米、周围长40米,远望好似一艘即将起航的帆船而得名。
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夕阳西下,回到自家的阳台上看落日别有一番感觉~
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太阳落下去,海水开始变得很凉。
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夜晚的垦丁夜市又开始热闹起来!
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强烈推荐这家一品卤味!像极了我们的麻辣烫但绝对又把麻辣烫甩出一条街,特别赞!
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乘凉的安静小狗狗~
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各种卤味俘获我的心!
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开开心心又一天,充实满足,
回去在阳台吃吃水果吹吹风,
月儿圆圆,安~
2015.4.1 垦丁西线:白沙湾-恒春古镇
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吃了早饭退完房,步行至垦丁站,坐垦丁街车橘线至南湾-入住垦丁好望角酒店。
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照样还是租了电动车出去耍,租车的时候特意问老板没有锁怎么锁车?老板很疑惑,为什么要锁车?没有人会偷车啊。。。好吧,关于治安,真的很有自信啊!
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李安电影“少年派的奇幻漂流 Life of Pi”中的主角“Pi”经过七个月的海上历险,最后登陆上岸的那片墨西哥海滩,真实的取景地就是在这里:台湾垦丁的白沙湾。这是一片长达百米的沙滩,由海洋生物壳体和细白、均匀的沙粒组成,因沙白水清而闻名。
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这里的水颜色特别丰富而且十分有层次感。
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因为景色美又未被开发很多,因此是台湾不少偶像剧、电影、MV的拍摄场地,也是我此次垦丁之行最喜欢的地方~
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玩儿的实在太开心,在海边有风吹完全忘了顶着三十多度的太阳,后来回酒店才发现自己已经中暑了。。。
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如果你也看过《海角七号》,那么你对这个地方一定不会陌生。
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2008年上映的台湾电影《海角七号》十分卖座,让拍摄地台湾恒春镇红遍大陆、港、台三地,电影场景成为热门旅游景点,其中男主角居住的“阿嘉的家”成为影迷朝圣必到的地方。“阿嘉的家”原是普通住宅,业主张先生免费借出三个月供电影拍摄,导演则直接用业主儿子的名字阿嘉作为男主角的名字。阿嘉的家是两层白色小楼,自电影上映后,每天都有上百人参观,业主夫妇更成了房子的导览解说员。现在“阿嘉的家”成为民宿,开放订房,可以让房客包整栋体验电影内的气氛。
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从恒春古镇回来就在酒店楼下的海边玩了会儿。
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晚饭还是在垦丁夜市解决的,其实去南湾住挺后悔的,环境没有垦丁大街那边好,而且也没什么可吃的,加上白天在白沙湾晒的有一些中暑和在去恒春古镇的路上在路上两侧见到了许多墓地有点儿吓著了,导致晚上一直发烧,好在及时吃了中暑和退烧药所以没什么大碍,所以对这个地方真心没什么好感。后来回来和一个台湾同事交流过为什么很多墓地建在路边,他说是因为依山傍水风水比较好。不过,恒春古镇这个地方下次可能不会再来了吧。
明天就要离开垦丁,心中真的是充满了不舍,心中只有一个念头:垦丁,等着我!我还要再来!
2015.4.2 垦丁-花莲
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这是怎么喝都喝不够的木瓜牛乳,怎么可以这样好喝!
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酒店吃完早饭,坐上垦丁快线大巴到枋寮站,在大巴上一路都有学生小朋友上车,每个孩子都特别有礼貌,上车时都会主动跟司机阿姨问好,而且一路上都很安静,下车时跟司机阿姨说再见。
这就是自由行的魅力吧,让你有更多机会融入到当地人的生活,看到他们最日常最真实的一面。其实这几天感受挺深的,记得在金沙湾民宿住的时候,在楼下遛弯儿,路挺窄的,我不知道后面有电动车,如果不是我无意中看见有电动车,开车的小哥应该会一直静静地跟在我们后面而不是狂摁喇叭。我们主动让路的时候,他连说了好几个谢谢!
我周围也有很多来过台湾的同事和朋友跟我说台湾一点都不好玩,台北没有北京大,楼没有北京新等等,其实我想说你真的不了解台湾因为你没有真正的融入到她的文化里面。其实大城市都大同小异,如果你想接近她懂得她一定要去那些小地方,那里的人更淳朴当地文化更浓厚。
我爱台湾,我也爱台湾人,因为这里是一个讲爱和美的地方,我也相信那么多自由行来过这里的朋友们跟我有同感。
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车窗外的风景简直美如画啊!
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到达花莲站,第一顿吃的是台铁便当。我原以为这种便当有什么好吃的跟盒饭能有什么区别,结果着实惊艳到我!
《十二道锋味》第三季舒淇那期,就有详细的讲过铁路便当的发展,开启便当的第一眼,谢霆锋便被占据了盒内2/3面积的巨大鸡腿镇住了,而这样一大份便当,只要80元新台币(约合2.5美元)。舒淇对火车便当有特殊的感情,因为她小时候经常坐火车往返于台北和家乡,妈妈每次都提前准备好中饭,但有一次妈妈没及时准备,所以只能买火车便当吃,“当时觉得火车便当真的好好吃”。
“除了全素食便当是米饭上覆蓋著一层厚厚的蔬菜,其他的都是肉、蛋、鱼、蔬菜齐全,吃到嘴里也格外美味,品质并不会因为属于快餐而降低品级。这样美味的丰富的便当,每盒仅售80到100元新台币,折合人民币不到20元。”
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午饭后在车站对面的骏腾租车店租了辆小摩托车,原则上大陆的驾照在小岛是不能租车的,但大部分的租车店还是会租给大陆游客的,不过在街上也有可能被警察拦哦,这个就得看运气了。
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也是因为没有到入住时间,所以把行李寄存酒店前台,先去了七星潭。
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到了七星潭,有很多人都会有一个疑问,“潭”哪里呢?其实如今的七星潭是指那美丽的海湾。而之所以这个区域会就做七星潭,是有原因的。七星潭原来的位置并不在海边,而是在花莲机场一带。其地名最早出现在夏献纶所编著的“台湾誉图并说台湾后山总图”一画中。 这幅图,是清代有关台湾后山地区的地图。在图中标示的七星潭地区为低漥的溼地,有数个大小不一的湖泊,所以将该地称为“七星潭”。
在1936年,日本人在原七星潭地区兴建“沿海飞行场”,将原七星潭的居民们迁至如今的海湾一带,并将部分湖泊填平。而迁至海湾一带的居民,因为习惯,仍自称是“七星潭人”。所以如今所谓的七星潭,是指海湾一带,也因此,在七星潭是找不到潭水的。如果,要找潭水的话,遗留下来的也只剩花莲师院中的涵翠湖,和机场内的两个小池塘。至于“七星”这个名字,也有一个传说。因为在以前,到了晚上天气好的时候,没有光害,就能看到满天的星星。也因为到这里看北斗七星最为清楚,所以称为“七星”,加上四周围的潭水,就和称为“七星潭”了。
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那天风浪有点大,可以看到被卷起的海水拍打着岸边,在那一刻内心与其说是畏惧不如说是敬畏,敬畏大自然敬畏造物主。
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原本来计划去太鲁阁和清水断崖,但是天气太糟一直飘着雨,看远处的清水断崖那里乌云笼罩的就放弃了,在花莲就安排了一天,没去成太鲁阁和清水断崖实在是很遗憾。
回到酒店已经可以办理入住,看小院子是不是很文艺~
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整个房间都是蓝色调,面朝大海带一个小阳台,就是因为看到了这个梳妆台,让我坚持自家装修的时候也一定要买一个。
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浪着实很大~
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花莲的街道。
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公正包子店门口排了好长的队,我就是凑热闹的那个!
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这个奶油酥条要特别提一下,好吃到没朋友!每人每天限购两盒。
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瑞穗牧场牛奶好喝~
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一个都没抓到。。。
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五霸焦糖包心粉圆,还是好吃!
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最爱的芭乐配梅子粉哟~
2015.4.3 花莲-台北(新北投)
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一早就要赶去台北的火车,来不及吃早饭,就让老板做好打包带走路上吃。
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台北的捷运萌翻了~
台北第一天住在了新北投,那里有很多温泉酒店。
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到酒店寄存行李换好衣服先去了凯达格兰文化馆,这里是台湾第一座原住民文化馆,储存了原住民的文化资讯。-文化馆为三层建筑,展示了原住民的文化、习俗等。馆内有专业的工作人员可以进行讲解,是了解原住民文化的好去处。
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台北市立图书馆北投分馆。
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“它是一座荣获绿建筑九大指标候选证书的建筑:一个木头打造的建筑物,与公园的树木融为一体;大片落地窗,让光透进室内,减少人工照明,读者也可以欣赏自然景色;馆内的设计借由高低窗产生对流,夏天可让室内降低摄氏4度,省电还能引进新鲜空气;图书馆屋顶安装太阳能光电板,屋顶覆蓋草皮。除绿化屋顶,也可隔绝太阳曝晒,并涵养水分,雨水用来浇灌植物和马桶用水……它也曾被评为全球最美的25座图书馆之一。图书馆是敞开大门让大家进去的,我们这些外人都可以随便坐下看看书。里面的书架都比较矮,一眼能看通透,感觉空间更宽敞。 如果想在馆里拍照要先到前台填个表格做个申请。在馆里拍照不能开闪光,不能拍人(包括自拍)。大家都是来看书的,所以我们也要守规矩,尽量不影响到别人。 馆内人不多,窗外的绿色和座位设计,很有恬静和悠闲的感觉,外围的3层楼阳台是户外阅读区,可以想象在天气合适的季节,在鸟语花香中阅读多么高逼格的事情。开始羡慕住在附近的居民。”
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里面不能拍照,只能拍拍外面啦~
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地热谷位于台北北投公园旁,又称为地狱谷,是北投温泉的源头之一,是大屯山群区域内水温最高的温泉。
地热谷温泉清澈见底,蓝绿色的温泉水温度约在90摄氏度到100摄氏度,水质是属盐酸酸性泉,因此,地热谷又称青磺泉。
地热谷终年冒着白色烟雾,但那些绝对不是什么好的气体,而是硫磺烟雾,对人的身体有害,因此,它又被周围的居民称为鬼湖。然而,那些硫磺烟雾也为地热谷增添了一层梦幻色彩,抹上了一层浓浓的神祕气息,所以,地热谷的这一景象又有“矿泉玉雾”之称。
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路边的每一处皆是风景。
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北投订的酒店是福泰天玥泉会馆,一个五星级酒店,逼格有点高。
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可以在房间内泡温泉。
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房间自带桑拿房。
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淡江高阶中学是周董的母校,也是《不能说的祕密》取景地,去的时候没有开放,只能跟校牌合影留念了~
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真理大学。
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因为淡水地处淡水河的入海口,地理位置极其优越,几次列强入侵均把淡水作为重要的军事据点。而红毛城就是西班牙人当年所修的一处军事据点,因为西班牙人多红发,所以被称为红毛城。整个红毛城建于山顶,主堡之上更是视野极佳,远处的河口清晰可见。虽然红毛城的军事意义早已不复存在了,但是里面的炮台依然如故的对准了淡水河口。主堡的对面是领事官邸。曾在很长的一段时间内处于英国人的控制之下。领事官邸内部展示的是英国贵族生活的方方面面。
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夜幕来临时的淡水老街。
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捷运跟我们的地铁是一样的,不过在台湾捷运上面是不能吃东西的,如果你违反规定是要被罚款的。
还有记得博爱座是让给老弱病残孕等有特殊需求的群体的,经过观察,即便车厢站满人,非以上人群也是不会坐博爱座的。
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喜欢萌萌的捷运~
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人声鼎沸的西门町~
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标志性建筑——西门红楼。
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西门町是台北西区最重要的消费商圈。西门町的地名来自日本,当时的居民大多居住于台北城内,而西门区域就是他们的休憩场所,1896年,这里有了第一家戏院“东京亭”,1922年时,正式以“西门町”为名。
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夜色已深,回去睡觉!
2015.4.4 逛台北之渔人码头
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博爱座。
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台北车站。
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渔人码头的夕阳,美得让人窒息~
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夕阳渐渐沉落海平面,如此壮观!
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2015.4.5 逛台北:平溪线-101大厦
也许你不知道瑞芳不知道平溪,但是以下这些足以唤醒身体里的文艺细胞:你可以去看《那些年我们追过的女孩》里的箐桐车站,可以去平溪看人们放天灯许愿,可以去十分看瀑布和《我可能不会爱你》里程友青走过的静安吊桥,可以去猴硐邂逅一只猫……这些都是旅行社不会带你去的地方,但是当电影电视里的场景与现实重合之后,会有不一样的感触。
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在车站买一张平溪线一日游的票NT 52,线路:瑞芳—猴硐—三貂岭—大华—十分—望古—岭脚—平溪—菁桐,当天可以任意游玩这条线路上的任何景点,不限次数乘坐小火车。一定要记得的是把列车时刻表拍下来,上面对于每站停靠的时间都有详细的介绍,合理计划每一站游览的时间。不管坐哪一段火车出站都会回收车票,如果想留存纪念,记得在出站的地方找盖章处改完戳再出来噢。
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平溪线小火车。
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在没有小火车经过的时候游客可以在铁轨上拍照。
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《我可能不会爱你》里程友青走过的静安吊桥~
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放天灯许愿的人们~
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车站的名字都好好听~
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从这些小细节就能看出小岛人民对美的追求和创造美的欲望。
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午餐吉野家,味道和大陆的一样,没什么特别。
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游客必来之地,101大厦~
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101观景台上看到的夕阳。
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俯瞰整个台北~
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还有很多地方没去,还有很多景色没看,无奈时间太短,8天时间就这样匆匆而过。
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收拾行李,明天就要回北京了。
买了很多有用的没用的,带来的箱子已经装不下,在夜市又买了一个大箱子。。。
2015.4.6 台北-北京
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踏上了出境的航班,心里说不出的滋味儿,短短的9天时间让我们对这片土地已经恋恋不舍、念念不忘。
去过很多地方,但台湾是目前为止我最爱的一个!
感谢老公的精心安排,让我有了一个难忘的蜜月难忘的回忆。
感谢大家耐心看完这篇游记,如果有机会,一定要去小岛走一走!
2017.7.13
本文章将原文转贴为繁体中文方便阅读