这次是我们第一次出国自由行,出行前感到非常恐惧,直到真正踏上旅程,才知道恐惧本身不可怕,是因为未知而恐惧
为了让我们以后可以翻出来再回味一下这次旅行中的酸甜苦辣,也想把我们的一点点经历分享出来,为大家做个参考,下面就进入正题
因为我俩现在在日本工作,有日本的签证,根据菲律宾驻日大使馆主页的内容,而且我们的行程是日本→菲律宾→马来西亚→日本,因此可以在菲律宾停留7天,马来西亚则是利用过境签120小时停留,所以两个国家都没申请签证就出发了…虽然在官方网站看到了这些规定,但还是很忐忑,生怕人家到时候就是不让入境…
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把护照照片页和日本的在留卡打印在一张纸上,入境菲律宾的时候,给他这张纸,然后告诉他你什么时候离境,就可以了。
Day1 初识菲律宾
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晚上9点半从成田机场飞往马尼拉,当地时间半夜快1点到的马尼拉,虽说半夜,人还是挺多的,机场还算可以,在机场的ATM(具体几楼忘记了,好像是在抵达大厅)直接用信用卡取的菲律宾比索,一次最多取2万比索,当地ATM手续费一次是250比索。
因为是早上8点多的飞机,所以在机场的the wings开了个twins room过夜,一间1800比索,上下铺,房间很小,纯粹是为了等飞机过夜住,提供餐食,早上随便吃了点就去赶飞机了。
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从网上找了个图,有需要的朋友可以参考一下
飞机晚点,10点才飞,11点到的宿务,出了机场往右拐就能看到很多人在排队打车,基本都坐白色的,人虽然多,但是很快就能排到,有工作人员会给你写个纸条,上面是你打车的车牌号,如果有什么问题,可以参照纸条上的电话投诉之类的。不得不说宿务真是太热了,暴晒啊…我俩英文都还说的过去,交流没啥问题,如果司机不知道地址,把谷歌地图给他看就好,出租车是打表的,感觉改进很多了,一般也不会给你绕道,反正我是一直看着谷歌地图监督他的。从机场到酒店花了276比索,正常价。
在酒店(我们定的南极中心酒店,跟国内连锁酒店差不多)吃了个午餐,一份海鲜铁板饭,一份汉堡肉铁板饭(具体名字我记不住了…就用直白的语言来描述一下),两份280比索,之后到了check in时间(下午2点开始办理入住),休整了一下,就出去逛了。
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宿务是真不咋地,跟国内的三四线小城市都没法比,我们国家发展的真的是很好了。
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走在宿务街头真是没有安全感,地面房屋都很破,脏乱差吧,也有好多流浪汉,最好走大路,小路就别走了,宁可绕远也要注意安全,我俩出来玩儿的原则。
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宿务街头有很多五颜六色的吉普尼,也算是当地一大特色吧,可惜没坐,因为根本不知道都是去哪里的…
以下是各种吉普尼随拍
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从酒店走到1号码头大概10多分钟,提前买了第二天早上10点40去塔比拉兰的船票,买的往返,返程也是10点40的。oceanjet的船,不知道我们去买票的地方对不对,往返也没便宜,一人一次500,tourist class坐席。
之后去了码头旁边的一个公园,里面有个叫Fort San Pedro(圣佩特罗堡)的要塞遗址,门票一人30比索,我们去的时候刚好有一对夫妇办金婚庆典,看岁数感觉不是很大。
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最重要的是给媳妇拍照了
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还有一只睡觉的懒猫🐈
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从公园出来后步行去麦哲伦十字架和圣婴圣殿,两个人在一起的,游客很多,圣婴圣殿外有免费的蜡烛,你可以拿着放在烛台上,仪式感好强。
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随后我俩步行去的卡萨格罗多博物馆,途径宿务大教堂,圣地亚哥亚普祖屋和解放雕像。
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卡萨格罗多博物馆的建筑还是很漂亮的,门票一人120比索,送了两个贝壳钥匙链。里面可以观看一段视讯,有中文字幕,大概了解一下这个建筑的历史之类的,也就10多分钟就能逛完。
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Day2海岛🏝原来是这样
早上起来去了对面的圣卡洛斯大学逛了一下,本来想去博物馆看看,但是没找到,而且也怕错过船,就匆匆去了码头。
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在码头需要排队交税,一人25比索,行李也必须托运,两个登机箱总共需要100比索,后来下船的时候也看到有人没有托执行李,所以很纳闷托运到底是什么个标准…
航行2个小时,下船领行李那叫一个乱,毫无秩序,直到媳妇把行李券塞给工作人员,才把行李拿出来。
打车去阿罗那海滩,刚好也有一对夫妻去,我们四个拼一辆出租车,讲了半天价,600块,也不知道贵不贵…车直接开到汉娜酒店,没到check in时间也给我俩办理了,因为太饿了,就在酒店里吃的,点了一个类似炒米粉,一个意大利面,加上服务费,总共花了1025比索,味道一般。
休息一下就去海滩了,海滩还是很不错的,海水也不凉。就是天阴,海水颜色不是很好看。
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P过后的倒是跟一些网上经常看到的海岛一个颜色
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拍完照就去预约明天的跳岛游,刚好碰到跟我俩年龄相近的一对夫妻也在找,就一起拼船了,一天2000比索,算是正常价吧,口才好估计可以再坎的。约定第二天早上6点半集合,先交500,第二天再交尾款。刚谈完就下起雨了,阵雨,问了小黑,差不多半个多小时就能停。果然没一会儿就停了。
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晚上沿着海滩走,去的一家泰国餐馆吃的,叫ISIS,我媳妇爱吃虾,点了2个烤大虾,4个烤小虾,冬阴功,2杯沙冰,还有一个他们推荐的咖哩,味道还可以,正吃着来了一个卖唱小姑娘,媳妇看着可怜,就给了50比索的小费。
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Day3跳岛一日游
早上在酒店着急忙慌的吃了个早饭,就赶去集合点了,有好多游客都在准备出海,海上全是排队接游客的螃蟹船,我们4个人一艘船,有两个小黑开船,先去追的海豚,很幸运看到好几波海豚,看着比海洋馆的可自由多了。
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负责我们4个人的两个小黑
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接着去巴里卡萨浮潜,租的面罩,讲的价,两个200比索,也是不知道贵不贵…建议自带面罩,更安全卫生舒适。
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两个潜点,一个看海龟,一个看鱼,每个250比索,我们商量的两个都去,穿好装备,坐的小小螃蟹船,由小黑划船划到潜点,到了之后就让一个一个下水,我俩都是第一次,虽然穿着救生衣,但还是非常紧张,媳妇也鼓足勇气跳了下去,我水性还不错,一直在媳妇边上安慰她,她始终扒著船边,埋著头往海里看,小黑则在水里一直拖着船找海龟,我们4个都是新手,全在船边上浮潜,没怎么离开过船。我也呛了好几次,后来才领悟不能用鼻子吸气…第一次用GoPro,回去才发现好多都没录上照上…小黑从看海龟的点一直把船拖到看鱼的点,反正这次是没有海龟,鱼是不少,也看到了大断层,挺吓人的,海水突然就黑乎乎一片,深不见底…就是没拍上
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浮潜结束去的处女岛,时间不好,看不到沙滩了,都被海水没过了,建议大家看完海豚直接去处女岛,应该是可以看到沙滩的。拍了些照片就返航了
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中午好像是1点多就回来了,在酒店吃的自助,住在酒店的客人打折,一人七百一十多,吃的也算丰盛,并没有很惊艳。回到酒店,倒床上就睡了…太累了…
晚上本想定第二天的陆地游,结果一直没找到可以搭伴一起玩的,就先吃饭了,在华人在薄荷吃的,媳妇想吃酸辣土豆丝了,正好和她胃口。
Day4陆地一日游
因为昨天早饭吃的太匆忙,我俩今天是好好吃了顿酒店的自助早餐,还是很好吃的,感觉比中午的自助还好吃…吃完就去沙滩上溜达,陆地游能不能玩儿就随缘,刚走到沙滩,就有小黑推荐陆地游,讲了价,两个人包车2000比索,因为实在找不到搭伴的,就定了,司机建议我们先去巧克力山,后来发现是很正确的建议,因为下午经常下雨,从阿罗那海滩出发一站一站玩儿到了巧克力山很可能就下雨看不到啥了。
我们玩儿的路线是巧克力山→眼镜猴→人造森林→坐船游览洛部落格河,本来还有蝴蝶农场和Blood Compact(中文名字忘了是啥了),不过下雨…就没去。
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从眼镜猴出来顺着路往西走就是人造森林
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最后是坐船游览洛部落格河
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河边有戏水的孩子,看到我们还表演跳水,非常友好
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中途到一个小村落,专门为游客游览的,可以参与活动,当然是要交钱的,也可以照相,有些也是要交钱的,比如给当地这些小孩照相…完事他们会围在你身边要小费
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那个小姑娘很卖力,很配合,小男孩估计是因为小,不懂,都是被动的配合
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往阿罗那海滩返回时发现又不下雨了…我们让司机直接拉我们去白沙滩,这边的沙滩比阿罗那的要大,退潮后露出一片像面粉一样的沙滩,很漂亮,我俩从白沙滩一直走到Dumaluan沙滩,照了一路,很惬意。
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之后打突突回的阿罗那。要价120比索,媳妇讲到90比索,其实突突水分很大,看的有的蜂友是当地人帮忙叫的,才15比索…
Day5菲律宾的最后一天
早上还是吃的酒店的早餐,前一天跟酒店约了车去码头,两个人一共500比索,不过到码头司机让我们叫过路费12比索,很是气愤!
到了码头,需要交一人20比索的税,行李又让托运,而且还是一件150比索,要我俩300比索,媳妇当时就不干了,怒怼工作人员,最后总共交了100比索,跟来的时候一样,我当时就变成迷弟了,老崇拜我媳妇了。
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在码头等船
回到宿务,打车去的SM CITY,在里面逛逛买买
麦当劳的鸡块,份量大价格也不贵
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晚上去机场附近的Park Hill 酒店过度一晚,因为第二天要赶7点多的飞机,还是选择了个离机场近的酒店。条件很差,蚂蚁很多,不推荐。
总得来说,这趟菲律宾自由行还是挺不错的,体验了一下海岛游,浮潜,放空自己,而且菲律宾总体还是比较安全的,人也很热情,在沙滩都会有当地人主动跟你打招呼,这边韩国人多,我俩经常被误认为韩国人。
在宿务机场离境的时候要交一人750比索的离境费,而且是现金,大家一定要预留出来这部分钱!
Day6吉隆坡——充满华人的城市
早上赶得飞机飞下一站,马来西亚吉隆坡。
上午11点多到的吉隆坡T2航站楼,出来后在May Bank直接用信用卡取的现金,不收手续费的。
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在机场买的到吉隆坡KL Sentral的大巴票,一人12龄吉,到了之后在周边的一家中国餐馆随意吃了个午饭,然后坐的单轨电车去酒店
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入住THE FACE Suites,入住酒店需要交一晚10龄吉的旅游税…酒店很大,家电也一应俱全,还可以做饭,我俩马上把这几天攒的衣服扔洗衣机里洗了,休息了一下就坐电车去武吉免登逛悠
出发前先去顶楼看看无边游泳池
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华为在国外还是很强势的
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吃的鼎泰丰,不太和我俩胃口,凉拌海蜇皮太甜了…量也小的可怜。
之后走路去的地标双子塔,在吉隆坡中央公园照了些照片,我俩都没打算上去观光,只是欣赏下夜景。
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走回酒店在楼顶的无边游泳池拍了些照片,双子塔和吉隆坡塔都可以看到,一举两得。
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Day7吉隆坡市内一日游
睡到自然醒,中午去网红点新峰肉骨茶吃了一顿,味道一般,价格也比较贵
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接着就是嘉美克清真寺→苏丹阿都沙末大厦→独立广场→国家清真寺这个路线游览了
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不过我俩去的时间不凑巧,中午清真寺不开放,等到下午开放时间了又突然下起大暴雨…真是不巧啊…
嘉美克清真寺没进去,不过好在国家清真寺是进去了…
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徒步到吉隆坡旧车站拍了些照
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傍晚到附近的马里安曼印度庙和茨厂街转悠
马里安曼印度庙是需要光脚进的,女生也要租下图里的裙子才能进
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途经关帝庙
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在茨厂街尝了尝金莲记的老鼠粉和碳炒福建面,有些咸…喝了杯网上经常推荐的罗汉果
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逛的差不多就坐电车回酒店了,到了晚上媳妇饿了,看时间赶得及就立刻去武吉免登的Pavilion吃饭,媳妇馋黄记煌了,就在这吃了顿,我俩是餐厅最后的客人…没吃完人家就开始打扫卫生准备关门了…
晚上再去楼顶的游泳池拍拍照
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Day8囧途,马六甲半日闲逛
早上要到南湖镇车站坐大巴去马六甲,打车从酒店一般30龄吉吧,结果司机绕了一大圈去的车站,我提醒他走错了,他还是绕个大圈,气死了,打表33龄吉,结果到了车站才发现我的护照包不见了…这可急死我了,跟热锅上的蚂蚁,在后座来回翻找,感觉是落在酒店大堂的沙发上了,马上让司机在返回酒店,途中用手机给酒店打电话,确实捡到了我的包,心里的石头才落地…一来一回花了76龄吉,司机非要78,说用Grab有两块钱的手续费什么的,我为了赶车没跟他计较,我俩是事先在去哪儿买的票,需要换票,结果我还排错队,距离发车还有6分钟的时候被告知成功错过了大巴,只能再买两张票了…经过这个小波折,比计划晚20分钟到马六甲,不过护照包没丢真是万幸啊…
到了之后先买的第二天去机场的大巴票,两个人50龄吉,保险起见,买的早上8点的,打车去要入住的是7天优品酒店,不过等我们要出去逛的时候酒店门锁又出问题了!关了刷不开!我楼上楼下来回跑了三趟,终于处理好了…
马六甲就是一个小镇,有很多历史,我俩也没做多少功课,顺次游览了圣保罗堂,Maritime Museum,荷兰红屋,海上清真寺
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上山的路上碰到一窝小奶猫,我这种碰到小猫小狗的瞬间走不动道了
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晚上去的鸡场街,很热闹,去的路上碰到很多装饰的很可爱的三轮车,白天也会看到很多,不过晚上真是太闪了
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在鸡场街里买了一杯芒果沙冰,上边有大块的芒果肉,还是很好喝的。
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福建会馆里有人唱着家乡的歌曲,这些人有的应该会很思念故乡吧
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DAY9归途
早上在酒店吃了免费早餐后就早早来到车站等车,我可不想再错过车了。酒店的早餐很简陋,最好自己提前买好自己喜欢吃的。
在车站等车,车位还是很好找的。车上空调开的太冷了,中途司机去上厕所,我趁机跟他说把空调小点,一看温度,尼玛,15度,想把我们冷藏起来啊!到机场大概2个半小时,第一站就是T2,可恶的司机说KLIA one,我俩以为是T1,结果把我们拉到第二站,T1航站楼了,司机真是213!好在有免费摆渡车,时间也足够充裕,以后真得多问问!
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之后一切顺利,起飞也没晚点,随着窗外的夕阳,结束我们这次菲律宾马来西亚之旅
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第一次写攻略,纪念一下我们一起经历过的酸甜苦辣
也请大家多多指教
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